ABS delete: this block ok?
ABS delete: this block ok? Summit Distribution Block with Proportioning Valve
Getting ready to do the ABS delete on my car. What do you guys think about using this distribution block/proportioning valve combo?
I plan on using two of its outputs for the front, and running one larger line to the rear where I will "t" it off. Summit says that the proportioning valve only adjusts one of the outputs. So I was going to use that output to run to the rear, and use the other two for each side of the front.
What do you think? Any problems I might run into?
Getting ready to do the ABS delete on my car. What do you guys think about using this distribution block/proportioning valve combo?
I plan on using two of its outputs for the front, and running one larger line to the rear where I will "t" it off. Summit says that the proportioning valve only adjusts one of the outputs. So I was going to use that output to run to the rear, and use the other two for each side of the front.
What do you think? Any problems I might run into?
If you like building your own stuff...and have the tools, then I commend you and your efforts. If time or money is an issue, our basic kits, are 139.99 which include all pre-formed lines, proportioning valve as well as every fitting you'll need. If you don't have a LL or double flare tool, our complete kit with the LL kit and tool is 199.99.
Our kits completely remove the entire abs bracket as well as stock distribution block.
Our kits completely remove the entire abs bracket as well as stock distribution block.
Originally Posted by tektrans
Dunno about that one. Why don't you just get the ABS delete block form Burkhardt?
We are a Dealer give me a call if your interested in the delete block.
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I also have the SMJ kit. I remounted mine in a different location though but I did use the parts that came with the kit. The only thing I did was rebend one of the supplied lines. This is the rear, I don't have pics of the front yet.
here is a pic:
here is a pic:
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Kit looks nice Steve, any idea on the weight difference?
Actually, glad that you brought that up. Weight difference of removing the entire ABS bracket as well as modulator is quite a good bang for the buck.
In addition, very good benefit is the fact that upon cleaning up the engine bay, you are not only making it look much less cluttered, you are increasing better air flow in the engine bay which can help keep the engine bay temps down.
Also, removing everything enables many turbo and supercharged guys to easily run their tubing. This facilitates better air flow through intercooler tubing as it minimizes tight constrictive bends as well as larger diameter tubing can now be utilized if needed.
All our kits, even the base model include a wilwood proportioning valve to bias the brakes. When you remove ABS, you have no bias adjustability. Your braking pressures equalize to ~50/50 front to rear. Having the adjustable proportioning valve allows the user to adjust pressures so that maximum braking capabilities are utilized.
LT1 brackets are quite heavy, LS1's not as much so, all in all, ~15 lbs is removed from either car. If you have TCS, it can be up to 20lbs by the time all is said and done.
Everyones setup looks great. Nice modification Brandon.
As always, all kits are in stock and typically ship within 24 hours of placing an order. Many times, if orders are placed before 10am EST kits go out the same day.
steve will that setup work with a manual master, like the one that comes in the kit that BMR sells (it's a package that includes a k member, a arms, shocks, springs, manual rack and a manual master cylinder)
If not could you do a setup that would include the tool and enough line to bend my own? I have an slp line lock that I will reuse when the whole thign gets redone. I'll probably redo all the lines on the entire car run a single line to the back and T it off in the back, run a T off a line going out of the line lock to send one line across the front to get to the passengers side, etc.etc.
Lemme know, shoot me a PM if needed.
If not could you do a setup that would include the tool and enough line to bend my own? I have an slp line lock that I will reuse when the whole thign gets redone. I'll probably redo all the lines on the entire car run a single line to the back and T it off in the back, run a T off a line going out of the line lock to send one line across the front to get to the passengers side, etc.etc.
Lemme know, shoot me a PM if needed.
SJM..... what do i do w/ th plug that plugs into the abs unit? ive had the kit now sitting in my room for about 2 months, and i was just wondering where that goes or can i remove it (ie cut that bitch off) lolthanks
bnandon
"Your braking pressures equalize to ~50/50 front to rear."
Are you sure about that (I have your kit btw, nice set-up)
I though the MC set the bias front to back. I ran my car without the manual valve or the ABS block and it "felt" like the same bias with the ABS block....more bias toward the front.
Obviously, the valve in your kit allows needed adjustability for race brakes, differnt pad compounds, etc......but i don't "think" the ABS block sets the bias.
Are you sure about that (I have your kit btw, nice set-up)
I though the MC set the bias front to back. I ran my car without the manual valve or the ABS block and it "felt" like the same bias with the ABS block....more bias toward the front.
Obviously, the valve in your kit allows needed adjustability for race brakes, differnt pad compounds, etc......but i don't "think" the ABS block sets the bias.
Originally Posted by 02NBMWS6
Summit Distribution Block with Proportioning Valve
Getting ready to do the ABS delete on my car. What do you guys think about using this distribution block/proportioning valve combo?
I plan on using two of its outputs for the front, and running one larger line to the rear where I will "t" it off. Summit says that the proportioning valve only adjusts one of the outputs. So I was going to use that output to run to the rear, and use the other two for each side of the front.
What do you think? Any problems I might run into?
Getting ready to do the ABS delete on my car. What do you guys think about using this distribution block/proportioning valve combo?
I plan on using two of its outputs for the front, and running one larger line to the rear where I will "t" it off. Summit says that the proportioning valve only adjusts one of the outputs. So I was going to use that output to run to the rear, and use the other two for each side of the front.
What do you think? Any problems I might run into?
anyway, to answer your question.. yes that CAN work.
your main issue will be that the stock lines are metric bubble flare, and that almost every aftermarket brake part is standard double flare.
the solution is easy enough.. cut the end off the stock lines, slip a standard double flare nut on, and using a METRIC flare tool, put a double flare on it.
it will then go straight in that summit block, a line lock, or any other prop valve you want to use.
a key thing to note, is you need a METRIC flare tool.. if you attempt to use a standard one, the line will "slip" in the clamp, and scar it up.. you then need to start over.
its not hard to do, and doing it yourself, you can make a cleaner, neater install then anyones premade kits. just take your time and do it right.
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
anyway, to answer your question.. yes that CAN work.
your main issue will be that the stock lines are metric bubble flare, and that almost every aftermarket brake part is standard double flare.
the solution is easy enough.. cut the end off the stock lines, slip a standard double flare nut on, and using a METRIC flare tool, put a double flare on it.
it will then go straight in that summit block, a line lock, or any other prop valve you want to use.
a key thing to note, is you need a METRIC flare tool.. if you attempt to use a standard one, the line will "slip" in the clamp, and scar it up.. you then need to start over.
its not hard to do, and doing it yourself, you can make a cleaner, neater install then anyones premade kits. just take your time and do it right.
your main issue will be that the stock lines are metric bubble flare, and that almost every aftermarket brake part is standard double flare.
the solution is easy enough.. cut the end off the stock lines, slip a standard double flare nut on, and using a METRIC flare tool, put a double flare on it.
it will then go straight in that summit block, a line lock, or any other prop valve you want to use.
a key thing to note, is you need a METRIC flare tool.. if you attempt to use a standard one, the line will "slip" in the clamp, and scar it up.. you then need to start over.
its not hard to do, and doing it yourself, you can make a cleaner, neater install then anyones premade kits. just take your time and do it right.
the SJM kit is a nice piece, but I want to do something custom and tuck the lines more out of the way for visual appeal and I dont mind doing a little labor myself
