Chassis lightening stage 2
#1
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With the 25.5 cage being done in the mustang I have been looking all over the car for ideas/ways to take some weight out of the car. I *think* the cage is basically strong enough to be a standalone and want to look at lightening the factory unibody.
1) A pillars - Use only outter sheetmetal and some of the angle pieces on the inside
2) C pillars - covered by trim panels inside - remove the inside layer or at
least a big portion via lightening holes or plasma cut ovals in the center of the panels
3) Orginal seat support structure - boxed setup welded to the floor - seats now mount to the frame, boxed seat support would be cut out
4) Dash - wiper motor box and surrounding sheetmetal to firewall - will need to brace the brake pedal to the dash cage bar
5) B panel lower sheetmetal to floor - to the left and right of where the back passengers sit there is double wall sheetmetal that the plastic trim piece is going to cover, cut the inside wall out
6) Doors - remove door bars and brackets
7) Dash support - cut ovals in large thick panels and remove old supporting structure for removed items
Good or bad idea?
1) A pillars - Use only outter sheetmetal and some of the angle pieces on the inside
2) C pillars - covered by trim panels inside - remove the inside layer or at
least a big portion via lightening holes or plasma cut ovals in the center of the panels
3) Orginal seat support structure - boxed setup welded to the floor - seats now mount to the frame, boxed seat support would be cut out
4) Dash - wiper motor box and surrounding sheetmetal to firewall - will need to brace the brake pedal to the dash cage bar
5) B panel lower sheetmetal to floor - to the left and right of where the back passengers sit there is double wall sheetmetal that the plastic trim piece is going to cover, cut the inside wall out
6) Doors - remove door bars and brackets
7) Dash support - cut ovals in large thick panels and remove old supporting structure for removed items
Good or bad idea?
#2
11 Second Club
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I was planning on doing some of those when I get a 10pt cage, so I am pretty sure if everything is supported nicely and with the 25.5 you should be set...
#4
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Go for it, the cage will keep the car from twisting...
I've removed most of those things from the TA, i haven't taken anything out of the b-pillars yet...
Also look into all those under and interior brackets where the speakers use to go, you can take a few lbs out by removing them.
Have you thought about removing the inner fenders?
I've removed most of those things from the TA, i haven't taken anything out of the b-pillars yet...
Also look into all those under and interior brackets where the speakers use to go, you can take a few lbs out by removing them.
Have you thought about removing the inner fenders?
#5
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You could always tie the cage into the a pillars and a few other spots if you thought you needed it. I'm not sure if its NHRA legal but alot of the SCCA cages I have seen are tied into the original body in a few places with some thin metal