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Is it OK to drive a big stalled A3 on the street?

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Old 10-13-2007, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
You'll be fine. I wouldn't daily drive it, and I would run a temp guage on the tranny (I do) so you can monitor it, but it should be fine.

Just be ready for teh tranny to overflow when it gets hot the first comput times, I've found the dipstick is only about 75% accurate, and the only way I've been able to get the tranny full to the right level is to run it and add a little fluid until it comes out the overflow, when the tranny goes in, do one thing I did not, put a hose on teh overflow tube and route it so that it won't hit the exhaust, or people will think your car is on fire, which I guess could happen if it were to overflow enough. Mine smoked like a **** the first time I drove it, overflow was hitting the Y pipe.

Put a hose on it or a catch can on it, and just monitor it at the start, you will figure out where the level needs to be on the tranny dipstick quick enough.
I plan on putting a temp gauge and a big *** cooler with a fan on it. I'm running A/C, so I'll have to put it in front of the condenser. Or remove my FTRA and mount it to the latch support and make brackets for the sides of the cooler.

How big of a cooler do you think I need to get??

Were should I rout the over flow tube to?
Old 10-13-2007, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
that 4.11 gear will effect you more than teh stall size. if you want 10 second and lower stuff, ditch the 4.11 gear (unless you turn a lot of rpm at the track)

I'm shooting for 10.50's or so on the motor and high 9's on the bottle. Do you think I will need to switch to 3.73's? I plan on using a 28" tire.
Old 10-13-2007, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JUICED96Z
I have a COAN 3800 in front of my TH-400 with a 28 inch tall tire and what calculates to be a 3.73 (nitrous car). On the foot brake with manual brakes its pretty easy to stall it up to 2500ish.


I don't mind it at all honestly. At 60mph I am at 2800RPM.

It could be even looser and I would not care. Its all about how serious you want to get.


Tire size is based off your trap RPM, stall size is based off of engine combo (cam more then anything) and gears and they all get matched together.
That RPM at 60 mph is not bad at all. But as far as the stall, I want it to leave pretty hard. So I guess I need to wait until the motor is about done and determine what cam I will be using to pick the right converter.
Old 10-13-2007, 09:58 AM
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run 3.73s
Old 10-13-2007, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by JRracing
I plan on putting a temp gauge and a big *** cooler with a fan on it. I'm running A/C, so I'll have to put it in front of the condenser. Or remove my FTRA and mount it to the latch support and make brackets for the sides of the cooler.

How big of a cooler do you think I need to get??

Were should I rout the over flow tube to?
I'm running a 21x7x3/4 flexalite, and it gets the job done no problem, if you get one with a fan like say this one:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I think you'd be more then covered... but it's expensive and harder to package into the car I'd think.



This is the one that I am running, you could always add a fan to it:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
You could probably add a small fan onto this one and it would get the job done, hell I'ms ure it would be fine without a fan. I'd try it without a fan first.

One thing definately to do is run a AN line with braided hose, no need to be cheap and run a rubber hose that could burst with the heat and pressure. Not that much $ to run a -6an line anyway.


As for the overflow tube hose, you could get a small catch can and mount it in the back of the car underneath somewhere (in a place that the fluid will not hit the tires, that would be very BAD) or just run a hose to the back of the car and over the rear, and just let it hit the ground, just make sure it's aimed right so it won't grease up the entire underside of your car. Track officials would probably much rather see a catch can.

Personally, the next time I have my tranny out of my car and I can get to the overflow tube (it's under the csr carbon fiber tranny shoeld, another item I would highly reccommend) I am going to put one of these on so that the overflow situation is taken care of, I will try to mount it to the th400 somewhere like it does with a glide, but fi there is no room I will put it in back somewhere that it's accessable under the car, or possibly to the frame connector or something.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Old 10-13-2007, 10:21 AM
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as long as your not in the 8's build the 60-e...but dont get a break i heard that with a break they always come apart...my 60-e built was only 1400 and im running low-mid 6's...should be high nines...but im at my motros limit...guys with the same tranny have gone 9.0's in full weight cars
Old 10-13-2007, 10:36 AM
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And you will get 10 of them before you get lucky enough to have one stay together.

Put a th400 in it, and spend your time and $ racing, not fixing.
Old 10-13-2007, 11:56 AM
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You should be fine with a Built 400. Who do you have in mind for the builder???

I love my Rossler built trans.
It wont be that bad on ya... if you are for sure going to keep driving it on the street then swap to a 28" tall radial. Thats what i had. 325/50's.
With the 400's 1st gear it will be really easy for the car to get moving with 3.73 or the 4.11 u have now.
I agree with spending your $$$ on a good trans cooler. Look to spending $200 or so on a fan cooled trans cooler.
And how most tell you to not drive on the highway.... thats completly backwards.... with the fan up front for air to flow across it the trans will be way cooler on the highway... vice stop and go traffic that will have no air at all (if you dont buy a cooler with a fan)
I did the daily driver thing in my car with a powerglide w/ a 1.80 1st gear and 3.73. I was @ 2800 rpms also at 60mph.
I ran out of gear in the 1/4 with the 3.73 so now im running 3.54's.... spinning on the highway @ 60 is only 2550 rpms now.
Look at it this way.... if ya keep the stock tires and have 3.73 out back and choose a 4l60e like some are saying..... your only spinning 200-250 rpms slower with the OD it has..... with a 28" tall tire its a lil more....
I know i had that too.

The one thing i will say is be sure to use good parts.
Rosslers trans arent cheap but will last.
The converter wont be cheap either. Mine is a Neal Chance.


I was at this same cross road when i 1st started my build. went thru 3 4l60e's and wanted a proshifted 6 speed... but in the end i called up Carl Rossler asking about a TH400 and for my setup a Glide was a better choice. Make some phone calls.
Good luck in your choice.

Kyle
Old 10-13-2007, 11:57 AM
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I agree, every one knows a TH400 built right is durable, if you're gonna build it go for reliability.
Old 10-13-2007, 12:31 PM
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why isn't anyone advising a th350 for that power level? i made a lot of calls and almost every place recommended a built th350. it's lighter and has nearly the same gearing, a little more aggresive, but very close. now the weight of my car is probably a big factor, but i too am looking at running mid 10's on motor and solid 9's eventually with spray. several of the builders i called said their customes take their th350's into the 9's in 3200-3400# race weight cars without any issues! the best part is that the trans is lighter & takes a bit less power to turn, and only cost an avg of $200-$300 more than a similarly built th400.

for the th350, get a rmvb w/brake, HD drum & 36 element sprag, and extra clutches.

i too agree with the big cooler as everyone else has stated. i would also try it without a fan first and see if it runs cool enough, then add a fan if not. and the CSR C/F shield is a Very cool piece and i will be running one of those as well!

also, i'm looking at running a 3.73 or 3.90 gear with a 27" or 28" tire and a 9.5" converter, probably around a 3500 stall off the brake running n/a, 4500 on spray, and i think they said it would be around 500rpm+ higher on the brake.

Last edited by PRAY HRD; 10-13-2007 at 08:11 PM.
Old 10-13-2007, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JRracing
That RPM at 60 mph is not bad at all. But as far as the stall, I want it to leave pretty hard. So I guess I need to wait until the motor is about done and determine what cam I will be using to pick the right converter.


If you spray it your pretty much stuck with a max of a 3.73.

If you want a KILLER stall and will never look back get a Neil Chance, if I can afford it after everything else I am going to swap my COAN out for one.


I played with a buddies LS1 GTO A4 Car. He droped it down to first and nailed it. I droped it into SECOND and hit it and he said I INSTANTLY put 4-5 cars on it. That was all motor for me.
This is all threw a TH-400, forgred steel driveshaft and a 12 bolt.


If you wanted to try and buff out that gas stain I have we can take the Z out and can show you what a stalled 400 car is like with a 28 tire.


On the motor alone it SCREAMS threw first and second. We figure it putting down low 500rwhp on the motor. I think going into second I am doing close to 70MPH shifting at 7k.


Get a TH-400 and never look back, you can build it to handle a lot of power safe. I only know one guy around here with a TH-350 and people wonder why he did not go 400. Yeah its a tad heavier and take more turn it but it will handle A LOT all day long. With the comment on the gears... you cna regear them I have been wondering if mine is...
Old 10-14-2007, 10:26 PM
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I am not running as much horsepower as these other guys so heres my 2 cents with a bolt on LT1.
I run a Rossler TH400 RMVB with T brake, Coan 4K stall nitrous converter, Dennys Nitrous ready DS, and a Strange 12 bolt with 4.10s a spool and 28 inch tires.
I live about 25 miles from civilization, and thats just to the edge of civilization.
Car runs fine, no overheating of the car or the transmission. I run about 3300 RPMs at 60 to 65 MPH. I have a B&M Hi tech trans cooler that has kept my tranny temps at 150 normal driving and a high of 180 playing around.

I don't wanna pay for the gas to drive it everyday and the spool takes a toll on tires. Other than those 2 downsides I have zero complaints with the A3 and big stall swap and I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Old 10-15-2007, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
And you will get 10 of them before you get lucky enough to have one stay together.

Put a th400 in it, and spend your time and $ racing, not fixing.
A buddy of mine had his out about 4 times before they got it right. He says it's working fine now. It worked very well at the lsx shoot out. But for some funny reason, they did not hook the T brake back up this last time!!!


I'd rather get the th400. I'm leaning towards a coan with a coan converter. I can get the tranny for 900 and the converter for about 450. Thats the price of a 60e rebuild with no converter which is a hell of a lot more.

I plan on spending good money on the cooler. And I WILL get one with a fan. Are they controlled by a temp switch?

JL, I like the one in the link you posted. It's pretty thick though. And that over flow bottle is great to. Do most people have this problem with them? I've not really heard others talk about this.
Old 10-15-2007, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA

The one thing i will say is be sure to use good parts.
Rosslers trans arent cheap but will last.
The converter wont be cheap either. Mine is a Neal Chance.


I was at this same cross road when i 1st started my build. went thru 3 4l60e's and wanted a proshifted 6 speed... but in the end i called up Carl Rossler asking about a TH400 and for my setup a Glide was a better choice. Make some phone calls.
Good luck in your choice.

Kyle

I talked with Carl about getting one. The only down side is the cost for the whole swap. And with a th400 in that price range, along with everything else I need for the swap. It would be way to costly considering I'm building a 383 also. But I hear nothing but good things about his products.

But I have a guy on here that wants to sell me his whole rossler th400 set up for 2500 bucks. But he does not have it out yet. I will hit him up before I make my purchase to see if he's ready to sell it. But then I'd be getting a used one and not fresh and new! Hmm.
Old 10-15-2007, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JUICED96Z
If you spray it your pretty much stuck with a max of a 3.73.

If you want a KILLER stall and will never look back get a Neil Chance, if I can afford it after everything else I am going to swap my COAN out for one.


If you wanted to try and buff out that gas stain I have we can take the Z out and can show you what a stalled 400 car is like with a 28 tire.


Get a TH-400 and never look back, you can build it to handle a lot of power safe. I only know one guy around here with a TH-350 and people wonder why he did not go 400. Yeah its a tad heavier and take more turn it but it will handle A LOT all day long. With the comment on the gears... you cna regear them I have been wondering if mine is...


How much does a good neal chance coverter run? I've heard awesome things about them.
I was thinking about running the 4.11 for a while and then switching the gear once I start spraying it to see what I will need.
Right now, in 4th gear on the 100 shot, I'm crossing the traps right at the limiter, which is at 6900rmps. I may raise it a tad with the new motor. Maybe to 7300 to be safe. What do you think?


Let's hook up and check out that gas stain on the car and go for a ride so I can see what it feels like on the road. Did I give you my #? If not I'll PM it to ya. Next weekend I will be pulling the motor and tranny out. But I will be done with it on Saturday. So maybe Sunday or something..
Old 10-15-2007, 04:33 AM
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The overflow is somethign noone really talks about, but it's common. real problem is that if you don't have the tranny full you'll be down on power, so the only way to really insure it's full is to add fluid until it comes out the overflow, which makes a mess. Using a catch can will make your track happy, and keep your undercarriage cleaner.

The flat flexalite will probably fit anywhere, the thicker one I suspect alot of that is from the fan.

I don't think you will need a fan, if you mount it on the triangle that holds the hood latch (drill a couple holes, make a bracket) and put it there it should have enough airflow to be fine, and there should be enough room to add a fan if you find you need one once it's together.
Old 10-15-2007, 02:01 PM
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You'll need a pretty stout tranny cooler. Mine is like 32,000 GVW! It's almost as big as my radiator.
Old 10-15-2007, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
The overflow is somethign noone really talks about, but it's common. real problem is that if you don't have the tranny full you'll be down on power, so the only way to really insure it's full is to add fluid until it comes out the overflow, which makes a mess. Using a catch can will make your track happy, and keep your undercarriage cleaner.

The flat flexalite will probably fit anywhere, the thicker one I suspect alot of that is from the fan.

I don't think you will need a fan, if you mount it on the triangle that holds the hood latch (drill a couple holes, make a bracket) and put it there it should have enough airflow to be fine, and there should be enough room to add a fan if you find you need one once it's together.
I may try and use a big *** cooler first with no fan and hook one up if it needs it. The one with the fan is pricey also.
Old 10-16-2007, 04:41 AM
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sounds like a plan.
Old 10-16-2007, 09:10 AM
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Also, what scatter sheild will fit an F body with out hitting the tunnel? Is that all that's needed to go 10.0's and over?



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