Battery Relocation + Cutoff questions
#1
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
Battery Relocation + Cutoff questions
We're getting ready to wire up the battery/relocation stuff and need some help. My corvette had the same cutoff switch and it was really never hooked up per NHRA specs. I had a wire going from the battery positive to the switch, than the switch to the fuse box. The alternator wire went to the fuse box also. When we hit the switch to cut off the battery the car would still run because of the alternator. What is the correct way to wire up the alternator? Is 4 ga wire sufficient or do I need heavier wire?
I was thinking about running the alternator wire back to the cutoff switch on the battery side so the alternator is connected to the battery instead of the fuse panel. When you hit the kill switch it cuts all power. I thought I read somewhere that there is a diode or item you need to add to cut power. Thanks for the look.
I was thinking about running the alternator wire back to the cutoff switch on the battery side so the alternator is connected to the battery instead of the fuse panel. When you hit the kill switch it cuts all power. I thought I read somewhere that there is a diode or item you need to add to cut power. Thanks for the look.
#2
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
run bat + to one side of the switch. Run the other side of the switch to the starter or fuze box like you had.
Need to run a wire from the alternator post all the way to the back of the car and connect to the same side of the switch as the bat + is connected.
This way, when you kill the switch, all power to the car is killed.
Need to run a wire from the alternator post all the way to the back of the car and connect to the same side of the switch as the bat + is connected.
This way, when you kill the switch, all power to the car is killed.
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#8
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From: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
This diagram might help cut down on extra wire.
I used 2ga all around with the stock stuff.
Run a google search for American Wire Gauge (AWG), they set the standards for wire and how much current it can hold for a respective gauge.
Buy welding wire, much more flexible.
OR
You can save on weight from adding the wire and buy a lightweight battery. Odyssey PC680.
I used 2ga all around with the stock stuff.
Run a google search for American Wire Gauge (AWG), they set the standards for wire and how much current it can hold for a respective gauge.
Buy welding wire, much more flexible.
OR
You can save on weight from adding the wire and buy a lightweight battery. Odyssey PC680.
#10
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I did this
High Amp Alternator Shut Down Relay Kit
P/N - 764-50105
This kit, comes complete with 250 amp solenoid and two 10' sections of 8 gauge wire, will effectively handle alternator feedback of the highest amperage alternators. Eliminates engine run-on when the master disconnect is turned off.
High Amp Alternator Shut Down Relay Kit
P/N - 764-50105
This kit, comes complete with 250 amp solenoid and two 10' sections of 8 gauge wire, will effectively handle alternator feedback of the highest amperage alternators. Eliminates engine run-on when the master disconnect is turned off.
#11
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
How big of a wire do I need (12 foot) to run a 50/74 max amp alternator @ 16 volts? I have some wire here just like to eliminate how much I need to buy. The system also uses a 16 volt battery and an alternator that puts out some 19 volts && 50/74 amps.
Last edited by Phil99vette; 10-17-2007 at 09:59 PM.
#12
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From: Some where in the Corn Fields of Illinois
I did this
High Amp Alternator Shut Down Relay Kit
P/N - 764-50105
This kit, comes complete with 250 amp solenoid and two 10' sections of 8 gauge wire, will effectively handle alternator feedback of the highest amperage alternators. Eliminates engine run-on when the master disconnect is turned off.
High Amp Alternator Shut Down Relay Kit
P/N - 764-50105
This kit, comes complete with 250 amp solenoid and two 10' sections of 8 gauge wire, will effectively handle alternator feedback of the highest amperage alternators. Eliminates engine run-on when the master disconnect is turned off.
#13
This diagram might help cut down on extra wire.
I used 2ga all around with the stock stuff.
Run a google search for American Wire Gauge (AWG), they set the standards for wire and how much current it can hold for a respective gauge.
Buy welding wire, much more flexible.
OR
You can save on weight from adding the wire and buy a lightweight battery. Odyssey PC680.
I used 2ga all around with the stock stuff.
Run a google search for American Wire Gauge (AWG), they set the standards for wire and how much current it can hold for a respective gauge.
Buy welding wire, much more flexible.
OR
You can save on weight from adding the wire and buy a lightweight battery. Odyssey PC680.
and the ground coming off the block is the factory battery ground right?
#14
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From: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
The ground off the block is attached to the chassis. The stock wiring has a lead from the block, to the battery, and the battery to the chassis.
With the battery in the back, I grounded the battery using an exhaust mount bolt hole, and grounded the block to the framerail at the front.
Added some pics.
I have since gone to a lightweight battery. Stock lightweight wire (compared to 2ga) and 25lbs lighter than the stocker, and 65lbs lighter than the battery relocation wiring and stock battery.
#17
If you are using the 16volt alt. then it should be a one wire alt. If it is you dont have to run the charge wire back to the switch.
#19
does you cut-off switch have 2 smaller connections also or just the 2 big connections. if you have the 2 smaller connections, they are for your ignition. that way you can run small guage wire to kill the ignition instead of having to run heavier guage wire to kill the alternator.
#20