I don't have a camera, I have to get a disposable one then I will scan some pics, hopefully by this weekend.

 

Did some more measuring and it seems relocating the LCA I picked up 2 1/4" clearance running a 1 1/4 c-moly bar.

Measured with the offset lca in the stock bracket and it was 14 1/4" from the fender lip, while the relocated offset LCA was 16 1/2" from the fender lip.

Also took pics of the pieces I fabbed to box the frame and how I modified the top shock mount and some pics with the tape measure to show the widths of cuts and compare the LCA in the stock location and relocated side by side.

Once I finish making the pieces for the panhard bracket I will include the total weight of all the pieces I put back in the car, tubs, plate to box frame, and any additional pieces as well as any body sealer used.

So far to date I have removed 56.5 pounds of material from mini tubbing.

 

Pics to WMSuperSport@yahoo.com when you get a chance please.

Does any of that 56 lbs go back in?

Thanks

 

Yes' I figure about 20-25 pounds will go back, I will weigh all of the pieces before I weld them in.

 

1st pic is tire tucked in 1.75" to show how much I will tuck in my 315 60 15 on a 15x12.

2nd pic is the LCA side by side in stock and relocated mount, there is a 2.25" clearance by relocating it.

3rd and 4th are the modified rear seat so it fits back in.

5th pic shows the clearance inside the tire which is very close to 6" and that is a 275 60 15 on it now, the section of the tire sits flush with the fender well. The metal I cut and bent around the top shock mount and new piece I fabbed, the stock hole was cut off due to me cutting 17" from frame to fender lip, this is the most you can go and keep the shock in the stock location. After I weld it in I will place the shock washer under the bottom and use it as a template for the hole to drill, then just enlarge the hole so the bushings will fit like stock.

6th pic shows top view of the panhard bracket cut and how the coil over spring sits out, still haven't made my top spring mount yet so it isn't tucked in all the way. Won't mount the top spring mount until I get the rear end set up so I can make sure the spring mounts are exactly lined up, no crocked springs for me.

7th shows drive side plate to box frame.

8th shows a coil over spring tucked in, inside to outside is about 3.5-3.75" and the spring is 3.25 so that was the most you can go with the spring sitting flush with the tub.

9th pic shows drivers side modified shock mount and view of side of frame and metal plate.

10th pic is side view of passenger side.

 

1st pic shows panhard rod sticking out and part of bracket cut off.

2nd is rear view drivers side of frame.

3rd the ride, sorry cheap disposable camera =/

 

its about time you posted some damn pics. looks good!

 

no pics of underneath the car and how these LCA relocations look on the frame side? maybe I just missed it in these pics.

 

Thanks, trying to get this thing done right the first time and you were right it is 100x easier to just cut everything out and back half it.

 

Sorry I only took the one pic of the lca's in stock location and relocated side by side with offset bushings, I will take more pics, need to get more film, it basically looks exactly the same underneath, but the LCA is just moved to the opposite side of the factory bracket and moved over as close to the frame as I could get it without rubbing.

I don't have my new rear end yet so I can't do the rear brackets yet. I can make a drawing of the relocation if you want I know there are a couple cars with pics.

I saw this one on a web site I did mine a little different but it is basically the same idea.

I left all of my stock bracket and this one has part cut off but the LCA mounts in the same spot.

 

Those pics help quite a bit. I get what you're saying now about relocating the LCA mounts.

 

Yes, it is pretty simple you move the LCA on the inside of the factory bracket, so it mounts between the frame and stock bracket, you trim a little bit of metal about the lca for clearance and trim the lip off of the stock frame, in the stock location the offset lca is 14 1/2" from the fender lip, relocated it is 16 1/2" on my car from the fender lip to the lca.

I am also using a 1 1/4" LCA.

To mount it in the rear I am making a LCA mount where the shock mounts on the bracket with two tabs, one on each side so the shock can rotate and not bind, since there is no reason to have the factory LCA hole location since the car is lowered and uses a bigger tire the holes must be lowered so you raise the shock up about 2 " where the factory hole would be and make the bracket with more holes below that.

So it is like a 4 link bracket with two tabs on top where a bolt slides through the shock.

I'll draw a quick pic and give you an idea of what I am going to make it's just a rough draft I will have to measure and plot intersection points I may only run 6-8 holes.

BTW it is a double adjustable bracket and uses two sets of holes staggered close to each other.

Using 1/2" holes the front set is .625 center to center apart and the holes in the rear are staggered directly in the center on the front holes.

The main plate is 1/4" with a 3/16" plate to reinforce the holes.

 

Started trimming the fenders for the 30" tire, to make my pattern I traced the factory shape onto cardboard and cut it out giving me a template, then tilted the shape 1 1/2" which is how much I streched the front, then traced the new shape and touched it up till I got the shape the way I liked it, made the line on the body panel, used a hacksaw blade to cut the ground effects plastic, then used a cut off wheel to cut off the metal and used the angle grinder to get the metal close to the line, will use a file and sanding block when it is really close to the line so it comes out really smooth and nice =)

In the rear I am cutting the plastic with a hacksaw blade by hand, it cuts that plastic really easy, then I am cutting off the extra metal underneath and will make a piece of metal that will go behind the plastic bumper so there are no gaps, then I will glass the plastic lip back on and screw it into the piece of metal like it attaches from the factory to keep it looking as stock as possible.

 

where did you get these?

 

I think wolferacecraft.com sells upper adjustable and lower adjustable but I haven't seen the photo of the lower adjustable, which I prefer because you do not have to remove the tire to adjust the hight.

 

I just checked and didn't see the lower adjustable on their site. I already have the upper adjustable ones, but those lower adjustable ones look pretty tempting.

 

I like the lower adjustable ones better.

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=820

Click on the "mounting location" button, there is a "mount to rear end housing".

 

I am going to make my own, will cost me about 15 bucks lol.

 

PM me

 

Decided to cut out all of the factory tub, with a 30" tire you can't lower the car for crap and have clearance, started cutting out the tubs and raised them all the way to the ledge on the trunk hatch just under the little tabs that hold the plastic piece.

Found out that there is bracing behind the factory tub, nice and in the way of course.

Looks like it will be an addition 3+" over the factory tubs in clearance on the inner side, outside toward the lip will be closer to 5" I would guess since the factory tub slopes down towards the fender lip.

Passenger side is a piece of cake to take out, drivers side will be a hassle to say the least, am cutting the edge of the factory tub, I don't want to remove the factory lip on the fender well so just cut out and trimmed it close until it was sitting behind the lip that tucks under the fender well.

When I roll the fender lip you won't even see it.

Will post more pics as soon as I take more.