My new drag toy. 93 lx coupe carbed LS1/th400. (pics)
#582
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Your related to those people? The driver was a young guy and there was an old fella about 65ish that looked to be the captain of the team lol.
They seemed cool.
I had bad results at that race. I broke the sprag in the trans earlier in the day during tnt. It would not go into second gear at all. So I raced it going from 1st to 3rd. My qualifying runs were 10.27 and 10.19 shifting it like this. I ran the 10.0 index.
I got put out in the first round sleeping at the light. .228 rt. I ran 10.33 to the other guys 10.40. Those .400 pro tree lights are no joke. I cutting good lights on a .500 tree but this .400 **** is crazy. A guy almost needs a trans with a pro brake to release quicker than a normal trans brake like a tci.
I will pull the trans this week and get my buddy to look at it. He thinks the sprag broke again. He said that going from 1st to 3rd like I did last week killed it. I didn't mean to. But I manually shifted the car last week and it will easily go from 1st to 3rd due to modding the shifter for the shift noid. I got over excited and pulled it back into 3rd gear.
My buddy says that is really hard on the sprag doing that.
They seemed cool.
I had bad results at that race. I broke the sprag in the trans earlier in the day during tnt. It would not go into second gear at all. So I raced it going from 1st to 3rd. My qualifying runs were 10.27 and 10.19 shifting it like this. I ran the 10.0 index.
I got put out in the first round sleeping at the light. .228 rt. I ran 10.33 to the other guys 10.40. Those .400 pro tree lights are no joke. I cutting good lights on a .500 tree but this .400 **** is crazy. A guy almost needs a trans with a pro brake to release quicker than a normal trans brake like a tci.
I will pull the trans this week and get my buddy to look at it. He thinks the sprag broke again. He said that going from 1st to 3rd like I did last week killed it. I didn't mean to. But I manually shifted the car last week and it will easily go from 1st to 3rd due to modding the shifter for the shift noid. I got over excited and pulled it back into 3rd gear.
My buddy says that is really hard on the sprag doing that.
#583
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The driver, Josh Netherton, is Fred's grandson.
They had the car running in the 9's, but Josh didn't like all the safety equipment he had to wear. They slowed it down to run in the 10's for that reason.
Sorry to hear about your transmission....that really sucks!
#584
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We took the th400 out Monday and the sprag is broke again. I am taking it to someone who knows how to build these things.
Jeg's mailed me another sprag for free. But I'm not going to just throw it in there this time. I want it all checked out good this time. I don't want to have to pull it again in another month..
I'm also thinking about pulling the BFG 325/50 DR tires and putting something else on there. I am trying to decide between a Hoosier QTP, or Hoosier DR, or MT ET street, or MT DR.
I know the bias ply will always work well while the dr's take a well setup car to work good on a marginal track.
But I really want to keep the car on a DR all the time this year. Radials are the ****.
Jeg's mailed me another sprag for free. But I'm not going to just throw it in there this time. I want it all checked out good this time. I don't want to have to pull it again in another month..
I'm also thinking about pulling the BFG 325/50 DR tires and putting something else on there. I am trying to decide between a Hoosier QTP, or Hoosier DR, or MT ET street, or MT DR.
I know the bias ply will always work well while the dr's take a well setup car to work good on a marginal track.
But I really want to keep the car on a DR all the time this year. Radials are the ****.
Last edited by JRracing; 05-21-2011 at 12:13 AM.
#585
We took the th400 out Monday and the sprag is broke again. I am taking it to someone who knows how to build these things.
Jeg's mailed me another sprag for free. But I'm not going to just throw it in there this time. I want it all checked out good this time. I don't want to have to pull it again in another month..
I'm also thinking about pulling the BFG 325/50 DR tires and putting something else on there. I am trying to decide between a Hoosier QTP, or Hoosier DR, or MT ET street, or MT DR.
I know the bias ply will always work well while the dr's take a well setup car to work good on a marginal track.
But I really want to keep the car on a DR all the time this year. Radials are the ****.
Jeg's mailed me another sprag for free. But I'm not going to just throw it in there this time. I want it all checked out good this time. I don't want to have to pull it again in another month..
I'm also thinking about pulling the BFG 325/50 DR tires and putting something else on there. I am trying to decide between a Hoosier QTP, or Hoosier DR, or MT ET street, or MT DR.
I know the bias ply will always work well while the dr's take a well setup car to work good on a marginal track.
But I really want to keep the car on a DR all the time this year. Radials are the ****.
#586
Race your car!
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I had a pro brake in my old Th400, and I honestly had to be careful not to redlight when I stopped racing it. Last test and tune I went to I had a couple in the .00x range... I had to actually wait until the yellow bulbs were LIT before letting go, I think if I let go any sight of yellow I would redlight it.
Went to a 27 inch tire for the next go of things, in an effort to help prevent the issue..... I figure with 400+ less lbs, probably double the power the car's going to react ALOT quicker. Hopefully the offset in the front will take care of the rest of it
.400 tree takes some pratice. Only thing I can tell you is once you light both top bulbs, if the other guy is already in, put it on the floor and let go of the button at ANY sight of yellow. And ONLY look at that tree... nothing else matters... and if you have to look at anything else, you are screwed.
Went to a 27 inch tire for the next go of things, in an effort to help prevent the issue..... I figure with 400+ less lbs, probably double the power the car's going to react ALOT quicker. Hopefully the offset in the front will take care of the rest of it
.400 tree takes some pratice. Only thing I can tell you is once you light both top bulbs, if the other guy is already in, put it on the floor and let go of the button at ANY sight of yellow. And ONLY look at that tree... nothing else matters... and if you have to look at anything else, you are screwed.
#587
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I want to get some tires ordered soon. I got a buyer on these bfg's and a buddy is buying some drag lites off me.
I notice the Hoosier seems to have a softer side wall. I wonder if it is easier to hook on a bad track vs the mt having a harder side wall.
I had a pro brake in my old Th400, and I honestly had to be careful not to redlight when I stopped racing it. Last test and tune I went to I had a couple in the .00x range... I had to actually wait until the yellow bulbs were LIT before letting go, I think if I let go any sight of yellow I would redlight it.
Went to a 27 inch tire for the next go of things, in an effort to help prevent the issue..... I figure with 400+ less lbs, probably double the power the car's going to react ALOT quicker. Hopefully the offset in the front will take care of the rest of it
.400 tree takes some practice. Only thing I can tell you is once you light both top bulbs, if the other guy is already in, put it on the floor and let go of the button at ANY sight of yellow. And ONLY look at that tree... nothing else matters... and if you have to look at anything else, you are screwed.
Went to a 27 inch tire for the next go of things, in an effort to help prevent the issue..... I figure with 400+ less lbs, probably double the power the car's going to react ALOT quicker. Hopefully the offset in the front will take care of the rest of it
.400 tree takes some practice. Only thing I can tell you is once you light both top bulbs, if the other guy is already in, put it on the floor and let go of the button at ANY sight of yellow. And ONLY look at that tree... nothing else matters... and if you have to look at anything else, you are screwed.
I think it I let go right when I see yellow it would be decent. But to be good at a .400 pro tree I would really need a pro brake that can react that quick.
I will be more prepared next time and practice cutting a better light during the morning tnt session.
#589
I do want to get a pg. But it is not in the cards til the end of the season. It is going to take some work to make it all perfect. It really needs to be on a motor plate at that time.
I want to get some tires ordered soon. I got a buyer on these bfg's and a buddy is buying some drag lites off me.
I notice the Hoosier seems to have a softer side wall. I wonder if it is easier to hook on a bad track vs the mt having a harder side wall.
I think you right on the money with the last part of your statement. I need to practice on a .400 light a ton. I never get to at all. It is usually the normal sportsman or .500 pro tree. So I was off guard on how quick it was.
I think it I let go right when I see yellow it would be decent. But to be good at a .400 pro tree I would really need a pro brake that can react that quick.
I will be more prepared next time and practice cutting a better light during the morning tnt session.
I want to get some tires ordered soon. I got a buyer on these bfg's and a buddy is buying some drag lites off me.
I notice the Hoosier seems to have a softer side wall. I wonder if it is easier to hook on a bad track vs the mt having a harder side wall.
I think you right on the money with the last part of your statement. I need to practice on a .400 light a ton. I never get to at all. It is usually the normal sportsman or .500 pro tree. So I was off guard on how quick it was.
I think it I let go right when I see yellow it would be decent. But to be good at a .400 pro tree I would really need a pro brake that can react that quick.
I will be more prepared next time and practice cutting a better light during the morning tnt session.
I can help you with the motor and mid plates. I have both for a LS in a Fox body. Give Nate at Nasty Performance. He's a sponsor here and he can get them from me.
#590
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Yeah man. I def want to get a set of plates for this thing. I wish I would have done it last year but the mini tub and shocks and wheels took up all my money.
I will pm you about the details. Thanks.
I will pm you about the details. Thanks.
#591
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I got my th400 back today. It needed high gear clutches and steels and a new drum and sprag. And the usual gaskets and locking ring for the sprag.
The guy who rebuilt it said it appears to have been to tight from the get go. It had .009" in the disc's and it should be around .040"-.050" so it does not drag. He thinks it should 60' better and react quicker now.
We'll see. I should have it back in by next weekend. That is if I can catch a break at work. We are really busy at the shop right now.
The guy who rebuilt it said it appears to have been to tight from the get go. It had .009" in the disc's and it should be around .040"-.050" so it does not drag. He thinks it should 60' better and react quicker now.
We'll see. I should have it back in by next weekend. That is if I can catch a break at work. We are really busy at the shop right now.
#592
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Very cool man and hope you do!
I had a night of firsts last night! Ran my first ever 10 sec 1/4...10.86@123.6 1.501 60'. And pulled both front wheels about 6-8" briefly! It was awesome! And today, i may have ironed out a trade agreement with a guy for an '88 mustang with an ls6/4l60e turbo setup recently completed! Just shy of 600/600 rwhp/tq, tuned by speed inc and a super clean car! Sadly it's a hatch but i think i can live with it!
I had a night of firsts last night! Ran my first ever 10 sec 1/4...10.86@123.6 1.501 60'. And pulled both front wheels about 6-8" briefly! It was awesome! And today, i may have ironed out a trade agreement with a guy for an '88 mustang with an ls6/4l60e turbo setup recently completed! Just shy of 600/600 rwhp/tq, tuned by speed inc and a super clean car! Sadly it's a hatch but i think i can live with it!
#594
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I got my th400 back today. It needed high gear clutches and steels and a new drum and sprag. And the usual gaskets and locking ring for the sprag.
The guy who rebuilt it said it appears to have been to tight from the get go. It had .009" in the disc's and it should be around .040"-.050" so it does not drag. He thinks it should 60' better and react quicker now.
We'll see. I should have it back in by next weekend. That is if I can catch a break at work. We are really busy at the shop right now.
The guy who rebuilt it said it appears to have been to tight from the get go. It had .009" in the disc's and it should be around .040"-.050" so it does not drag. He thinks it should 60' better and react quicker now.
We'll see. I should have it back in by next weekend. That is if I can catch a break at work. We are really busy at the shop right now.
Odd., I just got my th400, looked threw, he said it needs a new sprag and clutches, drove on the street fine, just stalled on the converter realy high
#595
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There's no system in the car anymore so it was all motor. It's down right now getting the new rear, suspension, k'member, drag brakes, tires and rims and should be done next week some time. I'll post a pic of it or pm it to you but i'm sure i'll be whoring it out a bunch! LOL
#596
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LOL, I got my car back up and running. It shifts great and the brake releases fine. I have a set of 325 Hoosier DR's going on tomorrow and I'm off to the track on Friday to IRP. It is round two of there Friday night Rage event. I hope it all goes good.
I got some cool new pics from a car show. I will post soon.
I got some cool new pics from a car show. I will post soon.