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Old 11-26-2007, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BYUNSPEED
I had the guy (works on the airplanes at the airport, welding, fabbing, etc.) who is doing some custom fabbing for me to look at this post and he agrees with Ryan.
Maybe someone should notify the FAA. And hey, way to circle the wagons to defend yourselves from the enemy customer. Too bad you did it before I ordered an Exoskel.

Originally Posted by UMI Performance
You posted in your thread that it took much then tapping with a hammer to get the bolt through the motor mount. After the bolt just started to bend the bracket why would you not stop? Why would you continue to beat on the bolt until it was fully through and then notice the bracket broke?? This is why I say "careless" on your part, after a few hits with a hammer looking to see what was stopping the bolt should have came to mind. But instead you can tell from pictures the bolt was continuously hit until it could go no further.
I confess. I guess I must have gone crazy. I couldn’t stop. I just wanted everything to be ok.

Originally Posted by UMI Performance
If you would like to send the K-member back I will be happy to take the time to re-weld the bracket or if possible re-install a new bracket. You will not be charged and only need to pay the shipping.
Thanks, but your offer is ridiculous. Once it’s out, even a brutal hack like me can TIG weld quarter-inch mild steel. And it will be able to withstand my mighty hammerblows. Besides, I didn’t keep the box.
Old 11-26-2007, 07:41 AM
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im taking ryans side on this one. i installed my umi k member with no issues
his quality control is very superior on all of his products because it is peoples lives at steak. if there was anything wrong with it it would have never went to powdercoat much less left his shop. from what i see it was installed wrong.
Old 11-26-2007, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1pwrdss
im taking ryans side on this one. i installed my umi k member with no issues
his quality control is very superior on all of his products because it is peoples lives at steak. if there was anything wrong with it it would have never went to powdercoat much less left his shop. from what i see it was installed wrong.
Well I'm not taking anybodys side here, I am not gonna be swayed by any quick judgements. I have purchased multiple products from UMI for my last 4 cars, I know his quality and I know his products. I don't have any issue with him or his company. NO company is perfect and 1 time out of a million a product could slip through with a problem before it gets powdercoated which would cover it up. I'm a realist here, it could happen to any company. I just find it hard to swing a 5lb sledge hammer in there hard enough to break it even with multiple hits....especially since I see no gouging of the end of the bolt or the threads which would certainly happen once the bolt protruded the whole slightly once pounded enough. It doesn't matter to me I guess, Gary already said he won't be sending it back, and given the harsh initial response by Ryan I can see perhaps why he would have harsh feelings about the purchase and response given without even seeing the K member in person.
Old 11-26-2007, 12:44 PM
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Remember the commercial when the two kids are trying to smash the square block through the circle hole and then they grow up and they are trying to put a battery in the car and it is too big and they say we can make it fit just reminded me of that.

So back on the subject, if anything I installed had to be hit with a hammer, either the part is f'd up or I am not installing it correctly, but the thing is you have to stop at some point and say hey this isn't working and give someone a call.

Hope it gets worked out for you.
Old 11-26-2007, 02:09 PM
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I'm sorry but if that thing can't handle some hammer blows I'm not so sure I want it holding my several hundred pound 900 HP motor in place.
Old 11-26-2007, 02:55 PM
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The first picture shows a reasonably clear view of the fracture. A metallurgist might be able to interpret this. There are also some marks on the powdercoat that I believe were made while I was maneuvering the engine attempting to align the bolt.

The second picture shows where the threads of the bolt bit into the bracket when I attempted to advance the bolt by turning it. I believe that the bolt was thus engaged with the hole when I hit it with my 24 ounce brass hammer.
Attached Thumbnails K-Member Installation Bummer-fracture-3a.jpg   K-Member Installation Bummer-bolt-alignment-1.jpg  
Old 11-26-2007, 03:10 PM
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I'd weld it back together and call it good. I have to say I haven't been real impressed with how this has been handled.
Old 11-26-2007, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TS6
I'd weld it back together and call it good. I have to say I haven't been real impressed with how this has been handled.
I agree.
Old 11-26-2007, 03:27 PM
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On my BMR k member I had to enlarge the holes slightly with a die grinder. I have since learned the if you leave the motor mounts loose when getting those bolts in you have ALOT more room to get them in.

I RARELY side with a manufacturer, but at some point when you have taken a hammer to a $450 part that does not NEED a hammer taken to it, there has to be a point where you stop. A motor mount bolt should NEVER need more than a small tap, otherwise you are not lined up.Even a motor mount bolt, just because the rounded head is sticking through means nothing on a motor mount bolt. I have hit mine harder than I should have with the "head" sticking through...just plain will not go through...I got the die grinder out. Mine is a BMR and is made different than the UMI.

If you could not THREAD the bolt through, I dont think a hammer would put it through. The way the mount is made, at a minimum it would bend the ear to where the bolt for SURE would not go through. And if bent back most likely would break.

THis may very well be a manufacturer problem, I dont know, doesnt APPEAR to be...but if so you should have contacted them directly.

Even so, would not cost much to have it welded, bolt the mount in the K member and have it welded. $30 prolly.



David

Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 11-26-2007 at 07:17 PM.
Old 11-26-2007, 05:07 PM
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Gary I'm in the market for one, if you want to sell that one let me know.
Old 11-26-2007, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Z
The first picture shows a reasonably clear view of the fracture. A metallurgist might be able to interpret this. There are also some marks on the powdercoat that I believe were made while I was maneuvering the engine attempting to align the bolt.

The second picture shows where the threads of the bolt bit into the bracket when I attempted to advance the bolt by turning it. I believe that the bolt was thus engaged with the hole when I hit it with my 24 ounce brass hammer.
I'd have to dig out my books, but that looks like brittle fracture from work hardening.

No suprise considering the level (beyond elastic region) of deformation.
Old 11-26-2007, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Gary I'm in the market for one, if you want to sell that one let me know.
LOL sorry you f'd it up wanna sell it you're funny john.
Old 11-26-2007, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by chrismorales75
LOL sorry you f'd it up wanna sell it you're funny john.
LOL that IS pretty funny

David
Old 11-26-2007, 07:27 PM
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from that picture it sure looks like an installation error. the bolt is still pushing against the tab and prying it out of place.
when one side of something is being held and the other is being forced it doesn't take much force to cause a failure.

i think it is funny that you call ryan's offer ridiculous as well. if you are going to be a smart *** and talk about how well you can weld you should at least be smart enough to know not to force parts together with a hammer. there is a big damn difference between "tapping" a bolt through with a hammer and hitting something hard enough to bend 1/4" plate.
Old 11-26-2007, 07:42 PM
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How hard to you think you could really hit a motor mount bolt with it in the car? We're not talking about a 64 impala here, there is very little room. I think every motor mount bolt I've ever put in needed a little tap, including my recent BMR K member install.
Old 11-26-2007, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
If you look at that pic, it looks like the bolt is going in from the rear. You can swing pretty good from the passenger side rear.

Unless I am upside down, which HAS happened

Davif
It also appears that the headers are installed, I don't care what side your on its tough to swing any type of hammer except a playschool one in that area in my opinion.
Old 11-26-2007, 08:35 PM
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I don't know how to call this one.

If it didn't fit good I would have sent it back, I wouldn't pay for anything I have to hammer to fit.

Then again I wouldn't hammer it period, it is hard to say but I can't see that piece of metal just breaking from a few hammer whacks, either it was pounded pretty hard or it was messed up from the start.

Not picking any sides but if it was me I would have cut it into pieces and threw it through the manufacturers window then shot gunned every one to death J/K

Really hope you get it worked out, I got stuff from UMI before and I was really happy with the quality and fit, I had "zero" issues fitting my UMI stuff.

Although maybe in the future you could call up the dude you bought it from and let him know the issue before basically saying hey everyone look at this pile of crap I had to hammer and it just broke
Old 11-26-2007, 10:24 PM
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What motor mounts were you using? I had a major problem with Prothane motor mounts being made incorrectly. At first I thought it was the UMI K member, but after spending about an hour measuring both the OEM K member and the new one, I found the the UMI K member was a perfect match to the factory one.

The Prothane mounts had the metal molded into the urethane wrong. The metal sticking out of one side should have been short but was long, and the side that was short should have been long. This forced the rear of the engine 3/4" out of alignment toward the passanger side. Lining up the bolts was a bitch and then we had to pull the engine back out. After we looked closely at the motor mounts it was obvious they were faulty.

Prothane found it hard to believe their motor mounts were fucked up but they were. I sent them back and they replaced them.

The point is that I have thought that whatever moron screwed mine up must have also messed up others. So if you have Prothanes take a close look at them.

FWIW I think UMI and Ryan put out some great products at moderate prices. I am using a number of his products and will be buying more.
Old 11-26-2007, 11:07 PM
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I did hit it hard. I never claimed I didn’t. I let my frustration get the best of me. I used a hammer reluctantly. I made a mistake. I was surprised and dismayed that it broke rather than bent. All I wanted was informed opinion about whether it needed to be as hard and brittle as it is. I wasn’t angry until Ryan accused me of some hammering frenzy that he imagined. His rant about me hitting it repeatedly was pure fantasy – it didn’t happen.

The k-member is out and I checked the spacing between the mounts. The spacing is almost exactly equal to that on my GM crossmember, as Ryan predicted. Welding the bracket will be easy. Installation will be easy if I abandon the poly mounts. I haven't had any problems with rubber mounts.

I know I'll love my new crossmember when it comes time to make smog peace with the California DMV. Switching between headers and manifolds will be easy.

-Gary
Old 11-26-2007, 11:16 PM
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Just a question, they make poly mounts but do they make solid mounts that can just replace the factory rubber clam shell deal?

I am not talking about replacing the entire mount, just the small rubber piece that bolts to the block.


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