K-Member Installation Bummer
Last edited by Gary Z; Nov 24, 2007 at 10:39 PM.
Last edited by Gary Z; Nov 25, 2007 at 02:39 PM.
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The only thing to do is pull it out and weld it or send it back to use to weld the crack shut.
The only thing to do is pull it out and weld it or send it back to use to weld the crack shut.
I had issues with my Spohn unit, but nothing that I couldn't fix with a drill or a dremel.
Looks like the holes for the engine mount were probably out of alignment.
That would be a good assumption not knowing how we build them. EVERY k-member we build goes through a inspection and is stamped with a serial #, you can find this # inside the passenger side rear A-Arm mount and is 3 digits long. This way we don't run into issues like this with a hole being offer ect., when making a item that large and adding that many pieces using weld the item will pull under heat. A final inspection of the item confirms its correct before going for powder coat and out the door.
With the motor being left in the vehicle the motor mounts are tough to line up no matter what you do. The weight of the transmission is pulling the motor backwards making the installation tough and trying to get a 9" bolt lined up through one hole, a motor mount and a last hole is tough.
Wrong again. I’m going to put my GM crossmember back. That way I won’t need to worry about it breaking.
I am sorry you had trouble and feel bad to see this happen... and I will do what I can to help. But I will no way take responsibility for this and what happened. You posted in your thread that it took much then tapping with a hammer to get the bolt through the motor mount, I have installed quite a few K-members under all sorts of situation and I know this task is not easy. After the bolt just started to bend the bracket why would you not stop? Why would you continue to beat on the bolt until it was fully through and then notice the bracket broke?? This is why I say "careless" on your part, after a few hits with a hammer looking to see what was stopping the bolt should have came to mind. But instead you can tell from pictures the bolt was continuously hit until it could go no further. The K-member was broke by the installer and under driven circumstances.
As for you worrying about the K-member breaking... We have over 200 units installed on all sorts of vehicles from 8 second drag cars to daily drivers and even road race cars. Not once have we had a failure. But can not guarantee a certain bracket of the K-member will handle a man with a hammer. It had to break; it had to no other option when being forced like that. Once material is bent is fatigues and becomes weak at the bend point, this is why we use the heavy thickness material we do. It is not designed to be re-bent back into its original state... this is why it broke. I don't care if it is brand A, B or C or the GM unit they were all going to break under that circumstance no matter what you might think.
If you would like to send the K-member back I will be happy to take the time to re-weld the bracket or if possible re-install a new bracket. You will not be charged and only need to pay the shipping.
I am not missing your point. I understand you point of view completely. I am completely neutral here. I just dont see how with just a small picture from one angle you can completely dismiss that anything could possibly slipped through QA. I would think you should at least look at the K member once sent back to assess the situation more then some tiny pic. It could have been broken by him, but knowing that I have worked on these cars before and to swing a hammer in that area at an force to break that metal it would be tough. I commend you for your offer to fix it at no charge, thats good to see...I just think that maybe you jumped the gun to point the finger especially since I cannot see where he even said the K member was yours or blamed you in the thread.

