Mod advice for Better Track times this Spring
Mod advice for Better Track times this Spring So kind of a long post here but I’ve been debating on my winter mods and would like to get some opinions. I have about $2000 -$3000 I want to drop (maybe more).
Current mods: Engine: Kooks Headers and ORY, SLP Lid, 160 thermostat, TR55 plugs, MSD Wires, Jantzer P/P Throttle body. Suspension: UMI SFCs, LCAs, Panhard, and nonadjustable TA.
Other: Drill Mod, Pro 5. Tune dropped in from similar car.
Dyno Results: (Dynomax) 355rwhp 373rwtq
Track: My best is 13.3.21 at 106.35 on a 2.092 60’ on a average DA with original Eagle F1s
Weight: The car is heavy! Stock, Me (350lbs) SFCs and TA (100lbs)
Goals: First and foremost I want a 99% reliable car. I want to be able to go on a 1000 mi road trip if desired and not have any problems due to mods decreasing reliability. Second I want to be able to run decent at the track. Decent for me at this point is mid 12s with 11s some day. I only want to do things once also and the wheel hop must go!!!
My thoughts;
Rearend – Probably a 12 bolt, maybe a 9 inch or dana.
LCA Relocation Brackets
Race only - Cheap ZR1 wheels and ET Streets
Option 2
LCA Relocation Brackets
QA1 adjustable shocks or similar
Prothane Motor mounts
Clutch OZ700z
Cheap ZR1 wheels and Nitto 555s or BFG DRs (I have no idea on wheel size or tire size yet, recommendations appreciated, it would be nice if I could swap on sons 99z with no spacers or anything)
Anyway let me know what you guys think even if completely different from what I’m thinking. Thanks!
Current mods: Engine: Kooks Headers and ORY, SLP Lid, 160 thermostat, TR55 plugs, MSD Wires, Jantzer P/P Throttle body. Suspension: UMI SFCs, LCAs, Panhard, and nonadjustable TA.
Other: Drill Mod, Pro 5. Tune dropped in from similar car.
Dyno Results: (Dynomax) 355rwhp 373rwtq
Track: My best is 13.3.21 at 106.35 on a 2.092 60’ on a average DA with original Eagle F1s
Weight: The car is heavy! Stock, Me (350lbs) SFCs and TA (100lbs)
Goals: First and foremost I want a 99% reliable car. I want to be able to go on a 1000 mi road trip if desired and not have any problems due to mods decreasing reliability. Second I want to be able to run decent at the track. Decent for me at this point is mid 12s with 11s some day. I only want to do things once also and the wheel hop must go!!!
My thoughts;
- Yes my car is heavy but I doubt that will change. I know I can pull the jack and spare, seats, 12 cd player, mats and other small stuff (I race on ¼ tank) but overall the weight will still be high.
- HP and Torque are not bad for a Bolton car. It might/should be enough for mid 12s?
- I would like to get 1.8 60s
- Wheel Hop has to go!
- Had one or two bad clutch slip episodes last year on launch (slipping Clutch), but clutch has seemed to come around.
Rearend – Probably a 12 bolt, maybe a 9 inch or dana.
LCA Relocation Brackets
Race only - Cheap ZR1 wheels and ET Streets
Option 2
LCA Relocation Brackets
QA1 adjustable shocks or similar
Prothane Motor mounts
Clutch OZ700z
Cheap ZR1 wheels and Nitto 555s or BFG DRs (I have no idea on wheel size or tire size yet, recommendations appreciated, it would be nice if I could swap on sons 99z with no spacers or anything)
Anyway let me know what you guys think even if completely different from what I’m thinking. Thanks!
sort the suspension out as best as possible, rear is agood move for reliability, remove any weight you can, that will help just as much as suspsneion work in the end. A fuel pump and a little nitrous kit, no more then a 100 shot would push the car to the next level if you want more power, and would leave the drivability 100% when it's off... something ot think about.
I would start with a random tech adjustable torque arm and hotchkis lower control arms. that will get rid of the hop. then qa1 rear adjustable shocks and a set of m/t drag radials and you're set.
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I would combine option 1 and 2. Finish the suspension, dump the 10 bolt and get a clutch. The 10 bolt and stock clutch are the weak links. The wheel hop will kill both of those fast.
I'd get an adjustable torque arm, adjustable LCA's and relocation brackets, adjustable shocks, front and rear, a new good clutch, good anti roll bar, a nitrous kit and some used drag wheels 15" and some slicks, then baby it off the line till you get the rear end.
You could maybe run a progressive to help keep the stock rear end going for a while till you get your new one.
You could maybe run a progressive to help keep the stock rear end going for a while till you get your new one.
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My present thoughts seem to be go with the rearend, clutch, and ET Streets. The rearend and clutch will be needed eventually so even though their expensive I might as well drop the bucks.
Wheel hop must go. I may go to an adjustable TA, but would like to see what LCA relocation brackets might do first. Yes, shocks and springs are in my future but for now, if i can get rid of the wheel hop, I can wait for better weight transfer and 60' times.
Not concerned about upping power yet, I need to get things set with the power I have for now.
Wheel hop must go. I may go to an adjustable TA, but would like to see what LCA relocation brackets might do first. Yes, shocks and springs are in my future but for now, if i can get rid of the wheel hop, I can wait for better weight transfer and 60' times.
Not concerned about upping power yet, I need to get things set with the power I have for now.
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If you are going to drive the car on the street in rain I would get the 12 bolt to keep your ABS and TC if you have it. I have a 9" in my 93 and it can be really fun in the rain.
keep it simple.
adjustable LCA's, adjustable torque arm, adjustable panhard, LCA relo brackets, ditch the jack+spare and drop the battery into their former home. once it is all set up take the car some place to be sure the rear is centered and square and set the pinion so that there is 0 degrees pinion to driveshaft angle. car will hook and go straight every time
you have plenty of trap speed and these mild suspension tweaks should be plenty to drop the car well into the 12's without spending tons of money or having a bunch of down time for the car.
getting a custom based on data collected specifically from the car is also a good idea. your generic tune may be close, but to optimize you must tune the car in question.
good luck
adjustable LCA's, adjustable torque arm, adjustable panhard, LCA relo brackets, ditch the jack+spare and drop the battery into their former home. once it is all set up take the car some place to be sure the rear is centered and square and set the pinion so that there is 0 degrees pinion to driveshaft angle. car will hook and go straight every time
you have plenty of trap speed and these mild suspension tweaks should be plenty to drop the car well into the 12's without spending tons of money or having a bunch of down time for the car.
getting a custom based on data collected specifically from the car is also a good idea. your generic tune may be close, but to optimize you must tune the car in question.
good luck