Hookin' Hoosier radial slicks w/a leightweight car & transbrake
02-08-2008, 09:40 PM
#21
In other words, if the wheels aren't coming off the ground at all, then the a-arms aren't dropping. When you limit the travel, it limits how far the a-arms drop down. But if the front end isn't coming off the ground, then the a-arms aren't fully extending. Does that make sense? Like I said, the way I'm thinking/picturing it may be way off and I'm wrong. What do you think?
02-08-2008, 10:14 PM
#23
Blowing through the converter as in slipping it? I know it's not built for the current engine, but it's no cheap converter either. It's a Protorque converter, they're out of New York. One of the best. The car has gone 9.8s standing on the brakes before the 1000 ft. mark.
The tires are spinning for sure, I've had a couple of people say so seeing it with their own eyes.
The tires are spinning for sure, I've had a couple of people say so seeing it with their own eyes.
02-08-2008, 10:40 PM
#24
Coal Mining Director
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IMO 2" of travel is killing the weight transfer....plus going off the brake at 5500 rpm is crazy. Pull the limiters off the front, set the 2 step to 3000rpm (to start), set the front shocks to 1 and start fine tuning by adding more 2 step rpm until the car starts to wheelie too much, then start the travel limiters back.
02-08-2008, 10:52 PM
#25
Blowing through the converter as in slipping it? I know it's not built for the current engine, but it's no cheap converter either. It's a Protorque converter, they're out of New York. One of the best. The car has gone 9.8s standing on the brakes before the 1000 ft. mark.
The tires are spinning for sure, I've had a couple of people say so seeing it with their own eyes.
The tires are spinning for sure, I've had a couple of people say so seeing it with their own eyes.
But a BIG mark on the tire and video it.
David
02-08-2008, 11:01 PM
#26
I just increased it to 2 1/2". As I was taking my measurements, the driver side only had 1 3/4" of travel and the passenger side had 2". Now both sides have 2 1/2".
onfire, if you say 2" is killing it, what range do you think is good to start off with? I'm not too comfortable doing it your way. I'd rather do it the other way because I know for sure the car is going to wheelie. It use to pull the wheels off the ground 2-3 feet, and a couple of times almost draggin' the bumper with the old cam only motor. I'm making at least 150 more hp, so I know it's going to be even easier getting the front end off the ground.
FASTFATBOY, I'm not saying you're wrong or right. I will put a stripe on it next time that I'm out. But I can feel it spin inside the car. The 2 people that said I'm still spinning were pretty much only a few feet away while I was making my pass/launch.
onfire, if you say 2" is killing it, what range do you think is good to start off with? I'm not too comfortable doing it your way. I'd rather do it the other way because I know for sure the car is going to wheelie. It use to pull the wheels off the ground 2-3 feet, and a couple of times almost draggin' the bumper with the old cam only motor. I'm making at least 150 more hp, so I know it's going to be even easier getting the front end off the ground.
FASTFATBOY, I'm not saying you're wrong or right. I will put a stripe on it next time that I'm out. But I can feel it spin inside the car. The 2 people that said I'm still spinning were pretty much only a few feet away while I was making my pass/launch.
02-09-2008, 04:56 AM
#27
Which is why you need to get that converter situation taken care of, you changed teh gearing so it will be a little harder to pull the nose now, get that converter tightened up and stop wasting you time.
You need something that will stall at about 5200 or so with your foot on the floor.
You need something that will stall at about 5200 or so with your foot on the floor.
02-09-2008, 08:54 AM
#29
Coal Mining Director
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just increased it to 2 1/2". As I was taking my measurements, the driver side only had 1 3/4" of travel and the passenger side had 2". Now both sides have 2 1/2".
onfire, if you say 2" is killing it, what range do you think is good to start off with? I'm not too comfortable doing it your way. I'd rather do it the other way because I know for sure the car is going to wheelie. It use to pull the wheels off the ground 2-3 feet, and a couple of times almost draggin' the bumper with the old cam only motor. I'm making at least 150 more hp, so I know it's going to be even easier getting the front end off the ground.
FASTFATBOY, I'm not saying you're wrong or right. I will put a stripe on it next time that I'm out. But I can feel it spin inside the car. The 2 people that said I'm still spinning were pretty much only a few feet away while I was making my pass/launch.
onfire, if you say 2" is killing it, what range do you think is good to start off with? I'm not too comfortable doing it your way. I'd rather do it the other way because I know for sure the car is going to wheelie. It use to pull the wheels off the ground 2-3 feet, and a couple of times almost draggin' the bumper with the old cam only motor. I'm making at least 150 more hp, so I know it's going to be even easier getting the front end off the ground.
FASTFATBOY, I'm not saying you're wrong or right. I will put a stripe on it next time that I'm out. But I can feel it spin inside the car. The 2 people that said I'm still spinning were pretty much only a few feet away while I was making my pass/launch.
Use the 2step to test how far it's going to pull up without limiters on the car. You don't have to keep your foot planted if you feel like it's shooting up too high....just do some baby test launches with the 2 step at 3000 and at least 4" of front travel....you don't have any weight on the tires right now and they will continue to blow off.
02-09-2008, 09:54 AM
#30
LS1Tech Co-Founder
iTrader: (34)
Could be no weight transfer + too much converter but who knows. How much converter slippage? Setting that 2step will all you to at least get some mph passes and creep up on it and see if it's too much. What does the converter flash to on the brake?
02-09-2008, 12:49 PM
#31
Banned
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the old combination I have Gen R's up front, and front M/T Sportmans now. 1.29 60' on the rear tires it hooked really well (Wasnt fun when it landed): Left on the footbrake @ 2700 on a 5500 stall vigilante.
QA1 Gen F all around. Front on 5, Rear Driver 7, Rear Pass 8.
Pep Boys Specials on front. Hoosier C07 Radial Slicks 30x10.x15
Spohn Rear Drag Swar Bay, non adjustable rear lcas, stock front upper lcas, bmr lower lcas, hotchkis panhard rod (Suspension has all been upgraded to TTP Race Craft full suspension).
3140 raceweight, 417ci NA very similar combo at the time to yours.
No travel limiters, no wheelie bars (See post with new oil pan,trans,block,etc. lol)
QA1 Gen F all around. Front on 5, Rear Driver 7, Rear Pass 8.
Pep Boys Specials on front. Hoosier C07 Radial Slicks 30x10.x15
Spohn Rear Drag Swar Bay, non adjustable rear lcas, stock front upper lcas, bmr lower lcas, hotchkis panhard rod (Suspension has all been upgraded to TTP Race Craft full suspension).
3140 raceweight, 417ci NA very similar combo at the time to yours.
No travel limiters, no wheelie bars (See post with new oil pan,trans,block,etc. lol)
02-09-2008, 05:18 PM
#32
JL ws-6, I can't just send over a converter and say hey, I've done this this and that to the car, I need it reworked. To properly set it up, I need hard information on what the car is doing like engine speed versus driveshaft speed (slippage), what kind of shift extension it has, what it's flashing to, etc. I need to make some solid runs and data log them so that I can send that information over to Joe at Protorque so that he's not guessing on what to do with the torque converter. A lot of converters people use are pretty generic. A true custom torque converter is the only way to go if you're looking for every last HP or ET. I don't want a shelf converter, I want one specifically built for my car.
tektrans, thanks, I just wanted to be sure of that.
onfire, I see what you're saying, but it's also hard to tell how far you're coming up from the inside of the car. I don't want to lift too late and slam the front end down, but then I don't want to do it too soon and kill a potentially good run if that makes sense.
Pro Stock John, both. No weight transfer and too much converter. I don't know how much slippage yet because I haven't been able to data log any runs yet. The rpms don't go that high when trying to footbrake it because the brakes aren't that strong. I no longer have power brakes, so it doesn't hold as good off the line. I don't know what it flashes to either because again, I haven't data logged any runs.
TTPMatt, there's no reason I shouldn't be cutting 1.2 60 foots. The car is going to go 9.40s when it's finally dialed in. I've already gone 9.8s standing on the brakes just before the 1000 ft. mark.
tektrans, thanks, I just wanted to be sure of that.
onfire, I see what you're saying, but it's also hard to tell how far you're coming up from the inside of the car. I don't want to lift too late and slam the front end down, but then I don't want to do it too soon and kill a potentially good run if that makes sense.
Pro Stock John, both. No weight transfer and too much converter. I don't know how much slippage yet because I haven't been able to data log any runs yet. The rpms don't go that high when trying to footbrake it because the brakes aren't that strong. I no longer have power brakes, so it doesn't hold as good off the line. I don't know what it flashes to either because again, I haven't data logged any runs.
TTPMatt, there's no reason I shouldn't be cutting 1.2 60 foots. The car is going to go 9.40s when it's finally dialed in. I've already gone 9.8s standing on the brakes just before the 1000 ft. mark.
02-09-2008, 06:50 PM
#34
My plan is to loosen the front end, which I already did, raise the air pressure back up to 20 psi, try footbrake first, then if it hooks consistently, I'll start using the transbrake with the 2 step. I need to make some clean passes so I can data log my runs.
02-10-2008, 06:50 AM
#37
[QUOTE=Dragaholic;8675155]JL ws-6, I can't just send over a converter and say hey, I've done this this and that to the car, I need it reworked. To properly set it up, I need hard information on what the car is doing like engine speed versus driveshaft speed (slippage), what kind of shift extension it has, what it's flashing to, etc. I need to make some solid runs and data log them so that I can send that information over to Joe at Protorque so that he's not guessing on what to do with the torque converter. A lot of converters people use are pretty generic. A true custom torque converter is the only way to go if you're looking for every last HP or ET. I don't want a shelf converter, I want one specifically built for my car.
QUOTE]
I dunno what the deal iw with your converter guy, but I know any converter that my guy has done can be adjusted by telling him a couple simple things...
You want to know what it stalls to? Simple, start the car and warm it up in your driveway, put the transbrake on in 1st gear, put it to the floor, get the rpm, take foot off gas pedal, release transbrake (after motor is down to idle!)
Make one run at the track, without hitting the brakes, any of that bullshit just shift a little early so you know the highest rpm the car sees that run (I assume you have a tach with some type of playback, or at least a highest rpm recorded that run in it) is when it'd going thru the traps, take the tire diamerter, multi[piy that by 3.14157, that's the foot rollout of the car. Now take that # and divide the # of feet in a mile to figure out how many rpm the tire is turning at the top end of the track per minute, multiply that rpm by your gear ratio and you have the rpm of the driveshaft. Divide that # by the highest rpm you have seen and you can get a % of difference from what the motor is doing vs. the driveshaft.
Send those 2 readings to your converter guy, tell him what you want them to be and you should be able to get the converter 95% or better to what it needs to be... at least the guy I use can. Noone's ever going to get it 100% the first try, so don't even think that's gonna happen. You can put 10 converter's in a car that are all built to the same spec and they will all run a little different, that's the voodoo of converter's. Ask any real racer how many converter's they tried befre finding the perfect setup, anyone that tells you less then 5 is a liar.
QUOTE]
I dunno what the deal iw with your converter guy, but I know any converter that my guy has done can be adjusted by telling him a couple simple things...
You want to know what it stalls to? Simple, start the car and warm it up in your driveway, put the transbrake on in 1st gear, put it to the floor, get the rpm, take foot off gas pedal, release transbrake (after motor is down to idle!)
Make one run at the track, without hitting the brakes, any of that bullshit just shift a little early so you know the highest rpm the car sees that run (I assume you have a tach with some type of playback, or at least a highest rpm recorded that run in it) is when it'd going thru the traps, take the tire diamerter, multi[piy that by 3.14157, that's the foot rollout of the car. Now take that # and divide the # of feet in a mile to figure out how many rpm the tire is turning at the top end of the track per minute, multiply that rpm by your gear ratio and you have the rpm of the driveshaft. Divide that # by the highest rpm you have seen and you can get a % of difference from what the motor is doing vs. the driveshaft.
Send those 2 readings to your converter guy, tell him what you want them to be and you should be able to get the converter 95% or better to what it needs to be... at least the guy I use can. Noone's ever going to get it 100% the first try, so don't even think that's gonna happen. You can put 10 converter's in a car that are all built to the same spec and they will all run a little different, that's the voodoo of converter's. Ask any real racer how many converter's they tried befre finding the perfect setup, anyone that tells you less then 5 is a liar.
