Lowerd cars hows your sixty foots ?
01-29-2014, 08:45 AM
#102
Just a bit of info:
Every coil in a spring starts to compress as weight is added. If a coil is cut off the spring rate will go up. Several things control the spring rate of a coil spring. The overall diameter of the coils, the wire diameter and the number of coils. The larger the the outside diameter of the coil the lower the rate, the smaller the diameter of the wire the lower the rate, and more coils will lower the rate.
You want the rear of the the lower control arm to be lower than the front frame mounted end. This will drive the tires under the car and lift. If the rear of the arm is higher than the front the tires will try to drive up in to the chassis and loose traction.
Pinion angle is another item that needs to be checked. The pinion needs to be slightly down relative to the tail shaft of the transmission. If the transmission is level then on a four link car you want about 1° down pinion angle.
Every coil in a spring starts to compress as weight is added. If a coil is cut off the spring rate will go up. Several things control the spring rate of a coil spring. The overall diameter of the coils, the wire diameter and the number of coils. The larger the the outside diameter of the coil the lower the rate, the smaller the diameter of the wire the lower the rate, and more coils will lower the rate.
You want the rear of the the lower control arm to be lower than the front frame mounted end. This will drive the tires under the car and lift. If the rear of the arm is higher than the front the tires will try to drive up in to the chassis and loose traction.
Pinion angle is another item that needs to be checked. The pinion needs to be slightly down relative to the tail shaft of the transmission. If the transmission is level then on a four link car you want about 1° down pinion angle.
02-12-2015, 11:09 PM
#103
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Say no to squat! Say yes to LIFT!!!
Check this beast out, See how the body is lifting up off the rear tire? Thats because the suspension is working and PUSHING the tires down, this is what you want. When the suspension is working properly the rear lip gap increases as the weight of the car rides the tire helping traction. If its squatting and the lip gap shrinks under power? That means the car is actually pulling the rear OFF the ground, no bueno
Check this beast out, See how the body is lifting up off the rear tire? Thats because the suspension is working and PUSHING the tires down, this is what you want. When the suspension is working properly the rear lip gap increases as the weight of the car rides the tire helping traction. If its squatting and the lip gap shrinks under power? That means the car is actually pulling the rear OFF the ground, no bueno
02-12-2015, 11:13 PM
#104
^ True. But in my experience without some serious gear back there, especially the shocks and springs, your not going to find neutral its either going to squat or lift. Lifting weight is better than squatting over the rising wheels which almost always results in sizzled rubber.
But get into some coil overs and fancier parts yeah sure i see those super fast cars leave on a wire too. $18K for the latest greatest door slammer rear shocks last I heard
Pretty incredible though to know parts of that caliber are literally a phone call away
But get into some coil overs and fancier parts yeah sure i see those super fast cars leave on a wire too. $18K for the latest greatest door slammer rear shocks last I heard
Pretty incredible though to know parts of that caliber are literally a phone call away
05-28-2015, 03:25 PM
#105
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The silver T/A in my sig is an anomaly in several ways. It has a really small cam (220/220ish) and ported 706 heads on a tired 154k mile bottom end. With long tubes and a gmmg catback i'd estimate 385-390whp. The suspension is completely stock except for Eibach sportline springs. It still has bumpstops in the back so maybe 1" of travel. It is slammed. I think the sportlines have sagged to the max. The front tucks the top of the tire. Somehow the rear end is perfectly centered, no rubbing.
With a 4000rpm slip on a stock clutch and Nitto 555's i cut 3 1.7x 60's with the best being a 1.76 i think. That is better than my Formula did on a drag radial with stock springs/bilstein shocks. I stopped trying to figure it out lol.
With a 4000rpm slip on a stock clutch and Nitto 555's i cut 3 1.7x 60's with the best being a 1.76 i think. That is better than my Formula did on a drag radial with stock springs/bilstein shocks. I stopped trying to figure it out lol.
05-28-2015, 08:03 PM
#107
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My car sits pretty low and has been 1.20 60' without a bunch of power in it. Should easily go mid to low teens maybe even a .0X by the time all is said and done.
05-28-2015, 09:30 PM
#108
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Question for you guys with more than a 2" rake. What is your weight bias? 60/40, 55/45, 65/35?
I'd also like to know what the car's suspension plotted at with such a steep rake. To me seems counter productive but sub 1.3's tells me it's working.
Thanks.
-Mark
I'd also like to know what the car's suspension plotted at with such a steep rake. To me seems counter productive but sub 1.3's tells me it's working.
Thanks.
-Mark
05-29-2015, 07:12 PM
#109
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My car actually doesn't have much rake to it. It looks that way because its downhill out of my garage. At any rate i am 54% on the nose with a bit of ballast up front.
05-29-2015, 10:56 PM
#110
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My car is slammed, 275 pros stuck in the wells about half the tire
Cut stock springs bout 2 coils and no isolaters
Afco front cool overs
Turbo ls1 88mm
Glide/3.55 gear
3530 race weight, 1.18 60 tire/track/gear limited
Cut stock springs bout 2 coils and no isolaters
Afco front cool overs
Turbo ls1 88mm
Glide/3.55 gear
3530 race weight, 1.18 60 tire/track/gear limited
05-31-2015, 03:00 AM
#111
You guys really want your cars to act right. Get rid of all that stock crap in the rear and get coil overs with adjustable shocks. Then you can tailor your spring weight to achieve the ride height you want. And use a drag bar. The car should never squat. It should raise in the rear, but no more than an inch when you get it right. The only squat should be from the tire rap up. And if you do get coil overs. The springs should only be strong enough to achieve your ride height with only a 1/16th inch of preload on the spring at full extension. You don't crank the adjusters to achieve ride height. You just have to figure out what weight springs you need. Then you can crank up the shocks to control lift. Then crank up the front shocks to control front end lift. Best of luck to everyone. Hope this helps. Oh and you definitely want your Lca"s to go downward to the rear end. Even if you have to add relocaters to it to achieve this.
