Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

It's not easy to have it both ways, but this guy can run 10.9 and 9.99 but he needs the car to 60 ft better anyway. Think about it. Car needs a 1.4 on motor to hit 10.9 and most likely he will need that extra kick on the bottle too. To go 9.99 on a 150 shot is not easy.

I think you need more converter. You need like 4800-5500 to run stronger on motor, and cut like a 1.45-1.48 short time. You could keep the 28's but you would again need more converter because you are only going to slow down as it gets warmer and hitting that 9.99 will be even hard, you might only go 10.2 on a 150 shot.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Yeh, I think it will run a 9.99 with a 150 shot, the converter being too tight will help that. 1 second on a 150 shot should be about right. Gotta remember I have a 7100 rpm limit on LT1 ecm. I think I could loosen the converter and EASILY get into the tens, but I want to spray the car.

Yeh I know I am like everyone else, I want both worlds. But you cant have it.

I will spray it here in a month or so and see how it does.

I am gonna order some Kirkey seats to get another 40 lbs out of the car. Gonna remove the passenger airbag also. ALot of work for 15 lbs...but gotta have it.

And on a lighter note, no pun intended, I am scheduled for a Lapband at the end of this month...so the driver is about to get lighter also.


David

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

4200 is not enuff converter for 10.9 at your power and raceweight, it's clearly close. I think you should loosen up the converter 400 or so, after you spray it. My guess is you will go 10.2 on the hose. I went 1.48 on motor and 1.38 on the sauce, just missed 9.99 bottle pressure was low. My current converter goes to about 4800 on the brake and I'm going to put in a 5500 converter which will rock on motor but I'll need a 2step for the sauce otherwise it will flash to like 6500.

N20Dave

iTrader: (7)

David, I also think the weight is an issue. Trying to get that much mass moving will really pull the motor down if everything isn't right (ask me how I know). All you need is a little more 60' and you're there.

Keep playing with it, you'll get there.

I don't usually give this out but...

I'm making 626 at the wheels on motor with 3780 lb raceweight going 10.15. This should give you an idea of what you need to get close to the 9's.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Thanks John, what size shot was that on what kit? I got a guy on the hook for a NOS Big Shot plate, adjustable to 300hp. For a damn good price.

Dave, thanks for the insight. I think on the spray I will 60ft better than you. I sixty foot consisitent 1.52/1.53 on the motor, with 470 to the wheels....should at least go mid 1.40's on the spray?? You guys really dont think it will go into the 9's on a 150 shot out of hole running 11.03 now? I was thinking that was a sure thing.....there I go thinkin again LMAO.


I am really not studying not it right now. I am getting squared away for this surgery and will not be able to drive the car for a while.But while I am down it will get spray installed along with a set of Kirkey economy drag seats.

I have beat the CRAP out of the car and it has not missed a beat....and is very consistent....cant bitch much about that....but I sure would like a 10 sec slip on the motor....I could put a 150lb driver in the car vs my 335 lbs and it would go 10's NO PROBLEM. I almost did that Sunday, but somehow I think thats cheating. Along with removing the air filter, exhaust cutout, removing the passenger seat etc. I want it to run a 10.99 JUST like I drive it on the street.

David

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I only had a 4,500 stall in mine and I got it down to mid 1.4 60ft.s and ran 10's on the motor at LACR which is higher altitude than a lot of tracks here, at the sea level tracks it would run 1/2 faster. I would have gone faster with a 5,500 stall on the motor. I wanted it to go faster on the spray.

I personally would keep the converter, 4,200 is a great N20 stall, I ran 1.45 or so on motor and 1.30 on the spray.

Here is my point, do you want to go faster on the motor, which will always be slower than on the nitrous, or set it up to run on the nitrous which it will go fastest with?

You can go 10.90 with a N/A set up and 10.2 on the spray or go with a nitrous setup and run 11.0 and 10.0 on the spray.

Besides running 11.00 is great, running 10.00 is better, who cares how you get there as long as you're having fun and not breaking stuff right

Oh I thought I'd add some numbers to give example of some of the runs I did on motor and smaller shots.

10.93@121 1.46 60ft TB

10.30 @ 129 1.43 60ft foot brake

10.0@133 1.40 60ft foot brake

9.30@142 1.30 ft60 TB

People told me my car would run faster foot braking and flashing the converter but every time I left on the nitrous off the Trans Brake it always left harder. I had a th400 in mine though.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Well the goal was to run 10.90 on motor, just like it is driven on the street. Full exhaust, air filter in, full interior.

And what ever it ran on the gas SAFELY(175 shot or less) that is just what it ran. But I tried to get a happy medium with the converter.

But remember I have a 7100 rpm limit with the factory ecm.

But now I would like a 9.90 slip on a 150 shot. I think it will do it on a 150 shot with 50 more lbs out of the car(Kirkey seats and passenger airbag out)


David

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

David my Formy dynoed 472rwhp locked with old 422ci iron block I had in there, and was 3600 raceweight... so similar to yours. I ran a Yank 4500 TP at the time (4L60E) + 4.10's. I kinda went thru this same thinking a number of years ago, I didn't have enough converter.

I went 10.008 with a 150 NX wet shot, went 133.9mph. I think you should loosen up the converter, run some 10.95's, and then when you spray it it should still work decent. Ideally you will go 1.45 NA and 1.35 N20... a 1.4 going 9.9's means you are not getting traction or leaving hard.

Going 11.02 at 3700 raceweight in -1800 DA is great with a 4200 stall, but I think running stronger on motor well help you run 9.9 on a 150 shot. Think about it.

Now my car went 11.3 NA in the middle of the summer with less timing, and 10.11 on the gun. I subsequently went 11.0 a few months later with nothing changed except NA timing, and that was running 50 lbs heavier than the summer.

I'm hoping to run 10.5 NA with a 5500 converter, and to 2step the car and run either a 100 shot or 150 shot and go for 9.5's but we'll see I might have to settle for a 100 shot and 9.8's.

I shift around 6800 for both, and I'm nowhere close to 7100 thru the traps.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Simple solution, take 50 pounds out of the car and you 'll run 10.90's lol.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

[QUOTE=
I shift around 6800 for both, and I'm nowhere close to 7100 thru the traps.[/QUOTE]

On spray or motor?


David

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I shift at 6800 for both, and on motor I go thru the traps at like 6200.

FlightRisk

I would like to put in my two cents....First of all change one thing at a time. You can change 10 things and spend a bunch of cash and run the same times, so change one thing at a time. Secondly, a 10.5w tire is WAY TO BIG, I don't know who told you to run that tire but that is really a lot of tire . Third , I have seen plenty of guys with too much converter, you can even hear the car driving through the converter. I haven't seen anyone ask about anything to do with the motor you are running. What cam are you running? That has a big factor along with weight and gear ratio.....my thoughts would be to put some more gear in the car . With what you have said I would go with a regular 28x10.5 , tire then see what happens. Then go with something like some 4.56's on those tires. I really don't think it needs more converter, there is a point in which you have too much converter. If your powerband is strong from 3500-7200 I don't think you would need a 5500 stall in it, just my two cents....

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

There is a track in Rising Sun Maryland that is an NHRA track that just so happens to be 13-14 ft DOWNHILL from the starting line to the finnish line.Now without changing a thing,a little road trip might just be what your looking for.My uncle ran there last year and went 2 mph and 2/10ths faster than he has ever gone!!!

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I have come to the conclusion the car does not have enough converter. It will BARELY hold still at 3000 rpm on the footbrake, really 2800 is all it will sit still at.

I know it is too much tire on the track, but on the street on a concrete bridge it will tote the front tires!!!

No worries, it went 11.02@123 with the converter unlocked, I KNOW it will run 10.90 with a 180lb driver vs my 340lbs...thats good enough for me, I built an all motor pumpgas 10 second streetcar...THAT was goal.

I just got back from a 30 minute interstate roadtrip(one way) to a car show in Mississippi...streetcars RULE!


Now I will install the gas and see if I can get in the 9's


Thanks guys

David

heavy6.0

iTrader: (69)

My thoughts exactly, except for the gears

Vortec355

I say leave the converter alone. I made the mistake of loosening mine. 150 shot was retarded and I was tapped at 6500 before the finish in 4th gear. On a 125 shot I'm at 5800 and finish at 6200 in 4th gear with 4:56's and 29 inch tire. Nitrous and blowers like tight converters.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I am gonna leave the car alone, The big tire, tight converter and 4.11 gear are gonna stay like they are. The nitrous install will start this week.

It will like the spray.


David