no doubt...we were too hard-headed to build 25.2 from the start now I have to cut a few bars out and add a sh%t-ton more to upgrade to 25.2/3

 

I've considered going strait to that instead of a 25.5 (which I'm even putting that off until I go fast enough to need it at this point, cause if I don't I'll never get the car done) just for the resale value, but I got a quote on a 25.5 and a 25.2, and the 25.2 was almost double the price

May still do it, but until I get booted for going faster then 8.50 I'm not doing anything, just recert what's in the car, put off doing the glass dash until the 10 pt gets cut out to get redone.

 

25.3 specs are out, Fastest Street Car (NMCA pub) and Race Pages (NMRA pub) have an overview of them in the current issues.

Derek

 

Yeah...I need to get the 25.3 specs on order

how did this unsticky itself?

 

Any mention of Fire Jacket and Pants for 10.3 to sub 9.9's?

I noticed that you mentioned Jacket's, Pants and Gloves for the 9.99 catagory - but this weekend I was told by the Tech that i needed a Jacket and Pants etc - I am currently at 10.3 @ 134.79 with a couple of runs into 136 and 137 (This weekend at Famoso) -

I run with full body and interior and AC etc - drive to the track and then home! Installed is a 5 Point Roll-Bar, which is stated to be good "ONLY" too 9.99!

The goal for my Vette is 9.9 and a run or two into the sub 9.9 area (I Usually race at a Private Rental there)

Question:

So do I need the Jacket, Pants and Gloves? - If so which will I need to purchase? What rating etc?

Thank you for your assistance!

Thanks,Matt

 

Once you go 11.49, you need a min of a single layer jacket, but if you're aiming to get to a 9 second pass, then get yourself a full 3.2/A5 rated suit. This is good to 7.50 suit wise, after that you need a 3.2/A15 suit (which is about 3 tmies the price)

You should get the jacket, pants, gloves, neck brace, shoes while you're at it, never hurts to have it all.

Your 5 pt bar is good to 10.0, once you run 9.anything you're done with that, and will get the boot if you do not have a 8.50 certed chassis. (8 pt). You'll also need a tranny shield, power shutoff even if the batt's in the stock location, sfi balanceer, sfi flywheel/flexplate, bellhousing shield/blowproof bellhousing, window net, 5 pt harness, you really should have upgraded to some better wheel studs as well, in the case of a vette you will need the 1/2 shaft loops as well, since you don't have a driveshaft to speak of. It's track dependant on the speed and how strict they are with it I think, but an engine diaper this year is also beign required at alot of places, so you don't oil the track down.

 

Actually, the 11.49 and faster rules are:

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years).

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

At 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster you need a full certified cage, an NHRA driver license (including a full physical), SFI 3.2/5 jacket and pants, neck collar and gloves, and a full face helmet (open face is okay 10.00/135 mph and slower). The shoes are not required in a full firewall/floorpan car, but they do have their advantages (better pedal feel, more flexability).

Derek


-No tint allowed on window except factory

 

Everyone who is a NHRA member should know the 2010 rulebooks are available as a PDF download from NHRA's site. If you are 9.99 or quicker or 135 mph or faster you need to be a NHRA member to get a competition license

 

Fixed my other post! Valve stems, I always forget that one, but they are also required... pretty much a standard thing everyone does that puts an aftermarket drag type wheel on a car I'd like to hope.

C clip eliminator axles/aftermarket axles also required, not 100% sure at what point but if you're in the single digits it's 100% required.

 

Have any of you guys heard about the no swing outs on the door bars for this year for cars running 9.99 and quicker. I am not that fast now but i do have the door bars. I did not get a recent copy of the rulebook yet.

 

No I haven't heard of that, unless something changed, swingouts were o.k. on anything with a 8.50 or slower cert.

I don't like them personally, it loses alot of strength from what the solid bar gives you, especially on a 6 pt.

 

As mentioned, swing outs should still be legal on a 9.99-8.50 cert. cage seeing how:
#1-didn't see any changes in the rules via PDF
#2-my car is cert. legal, passes NHRA strict tech and has swing outs
#3-my buddy just got his car re-certed to 8.50 and it has swing outs

Derek

 

Thanks guys that's great to know.

 

I have a question for you guys. I heard somewhere from a friend who is big into drag racing, that they changed the rules for needing a 5 point roll bar from a 11.49 to 11.00. I looked in the rule book but I did not see anywhere saying it was 11.00. He said the reason was for some new cars running faster then 11.49 from the factory. Has anyone heard this or is he full of bs?

Thanks

 

never heard of that. I haven't read the new rule book yet but i doubt that changed.

 

MN, if we are talking NHRA, it is still 11.49 http://www.nhra.com/competition/etquickref.aspx

 

Thats what I thought. Thanks

 

When do we need a bar behind the dash along the firewall? I feel like I've read that it isn't needed unless you've modified or cut the firewall. I can't find it anywhere in the rulebook...can anyone confirm this??

 

On all cars requiring a roll cage, if the OEM firewall has been
modified (in excess of 1 square foot for transmission removal, not
including bolted in components) a lower windshield or dash bar of 1
1/4 x .058-inch 4130 chromoly or 1 1/4 x .118-inch mild steel is
mandatory connecting the forward cage supports.

If you are building a 25.x cage, it is always required.

 

Something also to consider, if you take the cowl out, it's a really good idea to put one in, and put some small plates in the corners to attach the bar to the chassis as well as make it part of the cage, it will help regain some of the body's rigidity that way.