Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Couldn't really find the answer... Will relocation to the rear help to hook? I have traction problems, so this is one of the items I'm thinking of.
Would it provide ET gains?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It's not gonna hurt. Generally the more weight you can take off the nose and put over/behind the rear tires will help with traction.

More info on your setup may lend to getting more suggestions as to how to help your situation

InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

I heard moving the battery to the rear is equavalent to moving the engine 11 inches back in terms of handling

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Not gonna hurt, but is it worth the hassle? .05s at least?

In short - I have more or less suitable suspension except HD Bilstein shocks and WS6 springs. M6, riding clutch. But here in Latvia we don't have prepped tracks, so surface is basically like on the street. I tried BFG 315/35-17 and MT 26x10.5-16 Streets, they just don't hook...
I'm thinking about getting 28x13.5 MT Streets, but that's a lot of money...
If you are willing to help me to hook, please take a look at this thread, it has all details on my suspension.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/street-racing-kill-stories/789299-slicks-use-public-dusty-roads-can-t-match-awd-cars-launch.html

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The stock springs aren't killing you. If you want the car to hook on the street, and dirty ones from the sound of it, you'ge gonna need massive weight transfer. Front swaybar off, adjustable shocks, probably dual adjustable to get the car to transfer and keep the weight transferred. Ya probably need some 15 inch rims and put a 28x11.5 et street, or the like on the car, something that's got a big soft sidewall that you can run down at 12 psi or so as well.

Bottom line, you're trying to get a car to hook on what sounds like dirt covered pavment, I don't know if there's anything that will really hook up on that.

Find a cleaner road to race on, that would probably be the best bet, better yet, go to a dragstrip, where it's safe.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

These ARE our 2 dragstrips There's no more in my country.
What do you think of getting 28x13.5-15 MT Streets? Better/worse "on street" than 28x11.5?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you can get it to fit, do it.

Sounds to me, you may be a candidate for a minitub if you can get that done around you, and put a BIG *** tire on the car. That might solve the issue, but I dunno what kind of resources you have there to get that type of stuff done.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Sorry I don't know what minitub is...
But from your text I understand that in the case of bad traction wider+taller slick will help?

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

those will not fit on your car with the wheel wells being stock.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

more tire should help. If you want to run anythign bigger then a 28x11.5 et street, you will have to cut the inner fender out and refab it, a good bit of work and if you don't have a reliable chassis shop or fab guy, I wouldn't trust it to anyone.

Search minitub on here, and see some of the pictures, you'll get the idea.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

That's what I'm thinking. But sometimes I read about "too much" tire. I guess it is in case when smaller tire will hook the same, thus no need for increased weight and reduced gearing?

P.S. Pretty much everybody got their 28x13.5 MT Streets fitted with not many problems on their TAs, according to this forum

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

then the tire should fit. Too much tire can slow the car down, but in your case, with traction being such an issue I don't think you've come anywhere near having too much at this point. Too much will slow a car when traction isn't a concern, and you can get the needed traction with a smaller tire. Smaller tire, is lighter, less rotating weight, less drag, you get the idea.

You're in the opposite side of things now, you haven't gotten enough tire to get the needed traction, so a bigger tire should help.

What does the car make for power, what is the engine combo? Curious, because with cam only power I had no problems with a 26x11.5 et street on the street, car woudl spin about 10 feet then be hooked up from a dead stop on unprepped roads.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

It's low-compression (9.2:1) 383 motor, "small" cam, heads, about 320-340whp now, NOS coming soon.
My BFG 315/35-17 spin badly, 26x10.5-16 Streets are better but spin also. But they are only 8.4" tread, not very tall sidewall too being 16".
Your 26x11.5-15 have taller sidewall and 10" tread, could that make he difference?

P.S. I've just recalled - the only our RWD car that could beat AWDs here (1/8 tracks only, by the way) was Supra with 30x13.5-15 MT Streets. Other RWDs were not competitive, even 507hp BMW M5

Chris Gage

iTrader: (18)

try goign to a 15" wheel and a Hoosier D/R, run some skinnies up front to reduce rotating mass. see how that works out for ya. If you are still needing help, go to a qa1 or afco suspension set-up and play with the settings and ride hieght. If your torque arm is adj. set it -2 degrees for a bit more aggresive bite, maybe even move it a touch more to the egitive side if need be. I am not sure what the streets look like or the condition of them, and without konwing that, I wouldn't recomend a slick that is going to get chewed up really bad after a few passes.

you have alot of work still there in the suspension to play with. To answer your question about the battery, it will not hurt you one bit. I'd say go for it.

If you need anymore help then that, keep us updated on the mods and improvements that you have made. Launching from the streets isn't all hard, just a whole lot of trail and error. Goodluck and hope that I have been able to offer help.

(P.S. - if anything I have said has already been covered, i apologize, I didnt read these threads all that much).

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Chris the same question to you - when traction is limited, would bigger tires (like 28x13.5-15) hook better than my 26x10.5-16?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

That's what's on the car suspension-wise:
-UMI Torque arm chassis mount with UMI Torque arm (don't know what it's for)
-Moser 12-bolt
-UMI Panhard bar (don't know what it is)
-Spohn LCAs (don't know what it is)
-WS6 springs
-Bilstein HD shocks

Chris Gage

iTrader: (18)

Yes, the 28x13.5-15 would allow for better traction due to contact patch and more sidewall. Playing with tire pressure can change the performance of a tire and how well it will grip or slip.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If that tq arm has an adjustable front position, try moving it as low and as high as it can go, I'm not sure which will yield the results that you are looking for because if your substantially different situation, but if you can move it, do it. Reset the pinion angle to -2 and try that. One of the adjustments "should" help the car hook better.

Chris Gage

iTrader: (18)

I know nothing about the UMI T/A's, so I wasn't sure if it was adjustable or not. Make sure you have atleast a -2 degree setting on your torque arm or you could be fighting traction issue for along time. A properly adjustable torque arm will add structure from the body to the rear. It will allow the wieght to be planted onto the rear with the help of shocks. If you have crappy shocks (and I dont like blisteins), then all your gonna do is squat the rear-end, which will use up valueable energy that could be better used to lauch the car out.

The Panhard bar is for proper aligning of the rear to the body. Make sure it is properly set if it is adjustable.

The lower control arms will help with traction as well, if they are adjustable, make sure they are set right. You can also get some lower control arm reloaction brackets that will help a touch with getting the rear-end to bite.

While you have the right components to transfer the power to the ground, if these components are not set-up right, your suspension will be worst then stock.


Basically what you want to achieve is this, you want to tranfer front wieght to the back upon launch, you want the wieght transfer to push down on the rear-end instead of just squating the rear body of the car. If you come to the point where the car bogs on the launch, simpy raise your launch RPMs. Slighly spinning will be better then bogging

Paul H K

its like throwing a deck chair off the Queen Mary.. if you do relocate it to the rear you'll need a power kill switch if you want to race at the drag strip