4 inch Mufflex VS 3 inch true duals
05-28-2008, 10:38 AM
#22
That's funny as hell LOL. I put an exhaust on this year not because I was having problems, but some of the tracks require it for some classes, plus englishtown you have to have it. I went with 4 super 44 mufflers, and just cut the hat off to make the inlet 3.5 inches in diameter same with the exit, put the mufflers probably 16 inches behind the end of the headers where the indents are in the floor, then ran probably another 18 inches of pipe off of them and aimed it out in front of the rear tires.
It's not quiet, but it's way quieter then open headers were. I think it's quieter then the car was with the cam and the LM on it to be honest, and with 2 3.5 inch pipes, how restrictive can it really be? A little flat black high temp paint, and you can't see it at all from the side too, which is nice. I weigh'd each 1/2 (2 pieces, one for each header) and it was about 18lbs, so it's not that heavy either someday when my fab guy sends me the pictures we took, I will post them.
It's not quiet, but it's way quieter then open headers were. I think it's quieter then the car was with the cam and the LM on it to be honest, and with 2 3.5 inch pipes, how restrictive can it really be? A little flat black high temp paint, and you can't see it at all from the side too, which is nice. I weigh'd each 1/2 (2 pieces, one for each header) and it was about 18lbs, so it's not that heavy either someday when my fab guy sends me the pictures we took, I will post them.
I would like to try some 2" headers with a 3.5" Y-pipe, but that single 4" muffler isnt hurting anything I dont think. All the muffler classes here have to have the exit 12" or closer to the rear axle so header mufflers are out for me, a true dual type setup that far back would be heavier I'm sure.
05-28-2008, 10:47 AM
#23
I dunno if I"m 12 inches away from the rear or not, I'd guess it's a little more then that.
I didn't do an x or h pipe, 2 seperate pieces, so it's a really easy on and off.
I'd bet your car would pick up with the bigger headers, bug if you buy the 2 inch kooks get ready to cut the #1 primary and remake it because they're not gonna fit. My 1 7.8 stepped to 2 inch just clear the steering shaft by about a 1/16 of an inch, and that's where the pipe is still 1 7/8. If the 2 inch take the exact same path, they wouldn't work
I didn't do an x or h pipe, 2 seperate pieces, so it's a really easy on and off.
I'd bet your car would pick up with the bigger headers, bug if you buy the 2 inch kooks get ready to cut the #1 primary and remake it because they're not gonna fit. My 1 7.8 stepped to 2 inch just clear the steering shaft by about a 1/16 of an inch, and that's where the pipe is still 1 7/8. If the 2 inch take the exact same path, they wouldn't work
05-28-2008, 10:56 AM
#24
I dunno if I"m 12 inches away from the rear or not, I'd guess it's a little more then that.
I didn't do an x or h pipe, 2 seperate pieces, so it's a really easy on and off.
I'd bet your car would pick up with the bigger headers, bug if you buy the 2 inch kooks get ready to cut the #1 primary and remake it because they're not gonna fit. My 1 7.8 stepped to 2 inch just clear the steering shaft by about a 1/16 of an inch, and that's where the pipe is still 1 7/8. If the 2 inch take the exact same path, they wouldn't work
I didn't do an x or h pipe, 2 seperate pieces, so it's a really easy on and off.
I'd bet your car would pick up with the bigger headers, bug if you buy the 2 inch kooks get ready to cut the #1 primary and remake it because they're not gonna fit. My 1 7.8 stepped to 2 inch just clear the steering shaft by about a 1/16 of an inch, and that's where the pipe is still 1 7/8. If the 2 inch take the exact same path, they wouldn't work
I have a BMR manual rack setup here I just bought and that thing isnt even close to clearing the Kooks 1 7/8 headers even though they claim it will fit with 2 inch so I guess it goes both ways lol.
05-28-2008, 11:21 AM
#25
I still have the stock rack I just dropped the pump and looped it.... and the 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch barely fits.
I'm gonna go with a burkhart k member, a arms and rack setup when it gets changed, motor plate is already on so that's no longer an issue. They're setup is suppoed to clear it by alot, the actual rack is shifted over to the drivers side, and the rack is extended on the passneger's side so both sides have equeal lenth ti-rods, and the bump steer setup eliminates that problem. At least that is how it was explained to me anyway
I'm gonna go with a burkhart k member, a arms and rack setup when it gets changed, motor plate is already on so that's no longer an issue. They're setup is suppoed to clear it by alot, the actual rack is shifted over to the drivers side, and the rack is extended on the passneger's side so both sides have equeal lenth ti-rods, and the bump steer setup eliminates that problem. At least that is how it was explained to me anyway
05-28-2008, 12:00 PM
#27
I still have the stock rack I just dropped the pump and looped it.... and the 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch barely fits.
I'm gonna go with a burkhart k member, a arms and rack setup when it gets changed, motor plate is already on so that's no longer an issue. They're setup is suppoed to clear it by alot, the actual rack is shifted over to the drivers side, and the rack is extended on the passneger's side so both sides have equeal lenth ti-rods, and the bump steer setup eliminates that problem. At least that is how it was explained to me anyway
I'm gonna go with a burkhart k member, a arms and rack setup when it gets changed, motor plate is already on so that's no longer an issue. They're setup is suppoed to clear it by alot, the actual rack is shifted over to the drivers side, and the rack is extended on the passneger's side so both sides have equeal lenth ti-rods, and the bump steer setup eliminates that problem. At least that is how it was explained to me anyway
So far I have had a Madman rack but it didnt work out with my blower bracket, AJE that fit but never got the right parts to make it work so I got pissed and sold it, and now the BMR and it doesnt fit at all, thats over $2K in manual racks and I still have the stock one on the car.
I cant handle the stock rack with no pump, I'll give up the 5hp and 11lbs not to have my car drive like a 62 ford pickup with seized kingpins
Sorry to go off topic, just ranting, these cars have have some huge tolerances in the front ends but its funny that no matter what the stock rack always fits.
05-28-2008, 12:25 PM
#29
Yea well thats BMR says about there new manual rack setup also lol, it doesnt work by a mile..
So far I have had a Madman rack but it didnt work out with my blower bracket, AJE that fit but never got the right parts to make it work so I got pissed and sold it, and now the BMR and it doesnt fit at all, thats over $2K in manual racks and I still have the stock one on the car.
I cant handle the stock rack with no pump, I'll give up the 5hp and 11lbs not to have my car drive like a 62 ford pickup with seized kingpins
Sorry to go off topic, just ranting, these cars have have some huge tolerances in the front ends but its funny that no matter what the stock rack always fits.
So far I have had a Madman rack but it didnt work out with my blower bracket, AJE that fit but never got the right parts to make it work so I got pissed and sold it, and now the BMR and it doesnt fit at all, thats over $2K in manual racks and I still have the stock one on the car.
I cant handle the stock rack with no pump, I'll give up the 5hp and 11lbs not to have my car drive like a 62 ford pickup with seized kingpins
Sorry to go off topic, just ranting, these cars have have some huge tolerances in the front ends but its funny that no matter what the stock rack always fits.
Don't go there LOL. If you had a motor plate on the car, the burkhart one might work for ya.
I'm hoping it does for me!
05-28-2008, 12:48 PM
#30
The BMR one will work if I make a steering shaft like madmans, I'll fool with it later but their bump steer setup is **** too and until I get to a lathe its in the crawlspace of doom. The rack is nice being wider though but its still not as wide as a stocker.
05-28-2008, 01:53 PM
#31
What do you need to cut on a lathe? The pieces that go into the taper fit in the spindles?
Spohn makes a manual rack now that supposedly has taper fit ends on it that mate right up to the stock spindles the right way, I wonder if you can get those seperately?
Spohn makes a manual rack now that supposedly has taper fit ends on it that mate right up to the stock spindles the right way, I wonder if you can get those seperately?
05-28-2008, 03:14 PM
#32
BMR uses a long 1/2" fine threaded bolt and aluminum spacers and you have to dril the spindle with a 1/2" bit which is no big deal. Problem is the thin walled aluminum spacers they use crush if you try to tighten them. BMR says to to tighten them to 85 ft lbs, as an experiment I put the bolt in a vice and tightened them to 60ft lbs and they mushroomed like nothing. Thats not what I want holding my tie rods on at 150+mph going through a tapered hole to boot. If you had a part like the Spohn or Baer where the tie rod and spindle hole were separate you certainly wouldnt have to tighten the rod end and bump steer spacers to 85ft lbs so thin aluminum spacers arent a big deal on those.
I just have to make some steel spacers or some thicker aluminum spacers, not a big deal but for 700.00 I dont think I should have to be buying a 60.00 steeering u-joint and making spacers but thats just me
05-28-2008, 04:20 PM
#33
I agree. I swear that these parts are not test fit at all, or there's a "majic" test car that everything fits on 
nevermind the issues you're having.
I'd use a big stack of washers from home depot before I'd use the alum spacers that it sounds like you have. That kind of **** scares me, and bothers me at the same time, scares me that some people like yourself wouldn't have enough sense to notice the problem, and it bothers me that a company will put junk like that out there knowing that people like us are using it on race cars.
nevermind the issues you're having.I'd use a big stack of washers from home depot before I'd use the alum spacers that it sounds like you have. That kind of **** scares me, and bothers me at the same time, scares me that some people like yourself wouldn't have enough sense to notice the problem, and it bothers me that a company will put junk like that out there knowing that people like us are using it on race cars.
05-28-2008, 04:45 PM
#34
I agree. I swear that these parts are not test fit at all, or there's a "majic" test car that everything fits on nevermind the issues you're having.
I'd use a big stack of washers from home depot before I'd use the alum spacers that it sounds like you have. That kind of **** scares me, and bothers me at the same time, scares me that some people like yourself wouldn't have enough sense to notice the problem, and it bothers me that a company will put junk like that out there knowing that people like us are using it on race cars.
nevermind the issues you're having.I'd use a big stack of washers from home depot before I'd use the alum spacers that it sounds like you have. That kind of **** scares me, and bothers me at the same time, scares me that some people like yourself wouldn't have enough sense to notice the problem, and it bothers me that a company will put junk like that out there knowing that people like us are using it on race cars.
It always seems like its something, I am just getting a little frustrated after three completely different rack setups none of them worked out for me. For the most part its a nicely made piece and there was some thought put into it, just could be better for no cost difference.
Anyway, sorry for the thread hijack..
05-28-2008, 05:27 PM
#35
i run a racecraft bump steer kit and love it.
FK rod ends, gold anodized.
the adjusters themselves are black anodized.
comes with some really thick aluminum spacers.
mine are torqued to 60 and are not mushroomed.
they sell nothing but quality parts, IMO.
FK rod ends, gold anodized.
the adjusters themselves are black anodized.
comes with some really thick aluminum spacers.
mine are torqued to 60 and are not mushroomed.
they sell nothing but quality parts, IMO.
06-01-2008, 12:52 PM
#36
I run an exhaust at all times on my car. I originally had two chambered mufflers off the headers which would NOT pass noise requirements on muffled nights where I race. I switched to a custom 3" into 4" y-pipe into a 4" muffler which dumps in front of the rear. Passes tech and lost nothing in ET or MPH. Madmans rack works fine for my application.
06-01-2008, 12:58 PM
#37
I have exactly the same exhaust but smaller headers. It was built @ Mufflex.
