LS1Z28-00

iTrader: (8)

ill have to agree those are not good 60's my car does 1.65's and its only a 3.73 gear and 3500 stall car. id try a diff converter.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

If you are planning to just run all motor Tim, you need to look into that converter. Right now if you are running a 3500-4000 stall, 28" tall tires, and 4.22's, the car will 60ft like a 1.6 with stock cubes and a 3400 raceweight.

You looking for 1.45's? You'll need at least a 4500 stall. What size cam? Was that 460rwhp? Most of the fastest h/c guy went 5500 stall and were going 1.3-1.4's. Mine is pretty loose but it feels like it rips pretty hard. Hopefully I will hit the track next week.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

I would like to see 1.45 out of it PSJ. The stall was sold to me as a 4k stall from PTC from a third party. After a call to PTC, all they have on their books for the stall is a 3500. That would probably explain alot on it. I was wanting to go with something that would work on both N/a and on a 150 nitrous hit. I have been told from two converter shops that they can build me a 4500 that would work well with both, as long as i didn't hit it with more than 175.

The car weighs 3400 with me in it. It made 460/430 at the wheels with the T56. That was through my 3" steel DS, a Moser 9" w/ old school locker, 4.22's and slicks. I would hope it's still in the 400's through the TH350, but i really could care less. If i were hunting for dyno #'s, I'd have kept the T56. The cam/heads setup is milled GMPP LS6 heads, and a Trex cam.

Let's be honest here, can i get this car into the 6's in the 1/8 N/a???

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Last fall my best times at like 3350 raceweight look like this:

That was with a 4800 8" Fuddle stall (I just took it out), 28xx10.5's at 12-14 psi cold, and the front shocks at 1/1 and the rears at 7/7. Bottle hits were at 900 psi, and the track was loose and I had to abort most of the passes.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

looks like i dont have the mph to pull it, thats a big downer. haha

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

If you want it to leave harder try raising the torque arm up and see how it leaves, raising it will add more anti squat which autos like more compared to a stick car which you run with less anti squat since the stick / clutch hits harder.

Tuning the chassis can only max out your combo though, if you have a pretty small stall it's not going to 60ft hard unless you're running a pretty big hit of nitrous.

4,000 stall isn't much even with a stock motor most of them will hit peak torque above 4,000, so if you have a cam in it you'll be a good amount off. Even with a stock motor in a drag application I would run at least a 4,500. If you have an after market cam like an MS3, Trex or other, then you need to be up in the 5,000+ range.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You have start somewhere, what does the car run now? The Camaro started out running 11.38@118 or something like that on a 1.62.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

The car literally was the FIRST weekend out with the new setup. I've been a T56 guy since i bought the car back in '00, so to say I am new to Auto's is an understatement PSJ, haha.


My best pass last weekend was 7.30x@95.45. I was having some issues with my line lock, so i really never got a good burnout on the car either. That being said, it still never had a problem hooking up all day(talk about a change from a T56, )


Previous best with the T56 was 7.24@96 and a 11.4@124. Then again, one pass the car would 60' 1.65, next pass 1.75, next pass 1.72, etc....screw that. I think I will try and call PTC and see what it's going to take to have them re-stall to at least 4500, maybe even 5k. What STR do you guys recommend? Or should I just leave that up to PTC?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Before you call PTC, answer this... What do you want to run on motor and on spray? Which goal is more important? For me 10's on motor is more important than 9's on spray, I know I could/can spray the car into the 9's. I'm gonna say that you should run like a 4500-4800 converter to still have the car work on spray. That T-Rex wants some rpms I am told, like 7000 rpm shift points? My old Fuddle 8" was 4800-4900 on motor. If I were you I would go close to a 5000 stall because I'm sure you want to run 10's on motor all year long.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

You hit the "nail on the head". I want to first run 6's 1/8 and 10's 1/4 on motor all day. The 9's is attainable with the right amount of hit on nitrous, but ultimately, I'd rather get there on a turbo setup.

The car's driveability for street driving is of Zero concern to me. It is much more important to run the # for me. This car is a pure toy, and only comes out to play in, so the idea of a 5k stall is not a problem with me. That's the decision I was making in my own head last night as well actually PSJ. I'm afraid I will need more weight reduction to get to the 10's, but having the higher stall will definately help. You are right about the T-rex liking RPM's. Mine is still making great power at 7k. I used to shift out at approx. 6800 on the T56 combo. Without a Tach or shiftlight last weekend though, I bet i was shifting way early.

The old saying holds true: The faster you go, the harder it is!

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Sorry I missed the t-rex cam listed in your setup. If you're going to spray it and run it on the motor and want the best of both worlds I would run a 5k stall.

I had a 4,500 stall, great on nitrous, not so great on motor and I was shifting at 7,200.

I think 5k is a happy medium. To meet both goals of motor and nitrous ET.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

We'll see what PTC goes with. I'll let you guys know what the end result will be.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

If you want to go fast all motor, you'll want like a 5200-5500 stall. My new ATI converter drives pretty good, I had it on the highway last weekend.