S&W roll cage
S&W roll cage Hey guys im thinkin about installing my own roll cage, i have good welding skills ive never done a cage before though. It is a S&w 6 point. Is there anything i need to know before doing it. What is the proper ways to do it? does anyone have pics of their installations. i dont know where to weld the plates that came with it exactly so if someobody could please explain that would be great. thanks for the help
S&W should be able to get you some drawing on how to do the plates.
Get some welders magnets to help hold things together, also get a cheap heavy dudy ties down strap to hold the main hoop in place and keep in straight untill its welded in.
Weld as much of it as you can out of the car and take your time.
Im sure there are a lof of guys with some progress pictures.
With it being a 6 point I bet you could tac a lot of it up, pull it out of the car and weld it all then put it back in and do the final welding.
Get some welders magnets to help hold things together, also get a cheap heavy dudy ties down strap to hold the main hoop in place and keep in straight untill its welded in.
Weld as much of it as you can out of the car and take your time.
Im sure there are a lof of guys with some progress pictures.
With it being a 6 point I bet you could tac a lot of it up, pull it out of the car and weld it all then put it back in and do the final welding.
I just installed a S&W cage. The main hoop was pretty good, just had to cut about 3/4" off the bottom. The jig notching was not very good and left alot of gaps that had to be filled. I would say for the price it is a pretty good kit.
If I were to do it again and was not in a hurry I would have went with a Wolfe or something from Stenod.
If I were to do it again and was not in a hurry I would have went with a Wolfe or something from Stenod.
I'm guessing a 6 point would be a roll bar, most cages are at least considered an 8 point. Roll bars are easy to install. Use damp cardboard and a piece of aluminum sandwiched when you weld it to keep the sparks off the interior.
The roll bars are 1 3/4" diameter while the roll bars can be 1 5/8". Use a wire brush and clean very good where ever you will weld, prep is the most important thing to getting good welds. Cut things a little at a time and pre fit them so you have a prefect fit, no gaps, then tack the cage in, have the seats in, get in the car and make sure everything has clearance, if it all looks good wire brush where you need to weld, then final weld it all up.
Personally I prefer welding the cage to outriggers and the sub frames vs. plates on the floor.
The roll bars are 1 3/4" diameter while the roll bars can be 1 5/8". Use a wire brush and clean very good where ever you will weld, prep is the most important thing to getting good welds. Cut things a little at a time and pre fit them so you have a prefect fit, no gaps, then tack the cage in, have the seats in, get in the car and make sure everything has clearance, if it all looks good wire brush where you need to weld, then final weld it all up.
Personally I prefer welding the cage to outriggers and the sub frames vs. plates on the floor.
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I'm guessing a 6 point would be a roll bar, most cages are at least considered an 8 point. Roll bars are easy to install. Use damp cardboard and a piece of aluminum sandwiched when you weld it to keep the sparks off the interior.
The roll bars are 1 3/4" diameter while the roll bars can be 1 5/8". Use a wire brush and clean very good where ever you will weld, prep is the most important thing to getting good welds. Cut things a little at a time and pre fit them so you have a prefect fit, no gaps, then tack the cage in, have the seats in, get in the car and make sure everything has clearance, if it all looks good wire brush where you need to weld, then final weld it all up.
Personally I prefer welding the cage to outriggers and the sub frames vs. plates on the floor.
The roll bars are 1 3/4" diameter while the roll bars can be 1 5/8". Use a wire brush and clean very good where ever you will weld, prep is the most important thing to getting good welds. Cut things a little at a time and pre fit them so you have a prefect fit, no gaps, then tack the cage in, have the seats in, get in the car and make sure everything has clearance, if it all looks good wire brush where you need to weld, then final weld it all up.
Personally I prefer welding the cage to outriggers and the sub frames vs. plates on the floor.
It is a bar.... I always yell at people for that and I have been calling the bar a cage... sorry bout that. 
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2007
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for structural parts such as a roll bar / cage, gaps shold never be filled, they should be made to fit correctly, the reason for this is that that weld will contract or shrink more than usual, at a minimum the other end of the bar will pop its tacks loose and move, at worst it will twist the car.
Also the seat should be mocked up first, positioned so the driver can reach the pedals and switches, then the driver needs to sit in the car and have a helmet on , then the position of the main hoop can be determined, per the rule book that the track you run at uses, nhra says 6 inches from helmet, i do not know ihra rule, but would guess it is similar
Also the seat should be mocked up first, positioned so the driver can reach the pedals and switches, then the driver needs to sit in the car and have a helmet on , then the position of the main hoop can be determined, per the rule book that the track you run at uses, nhra says 6 inches from helmet, i do not know ihra rule, but would guess it is similar
12 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Ohio
I am working on a s&w 6 point kit. Hoop was good. I got pro street rear bars that run to the rear frame rails next to the t-top holders but I had to put an extra bend in these. Door bars I made my own swing outs and put two small bends in each to get around the seats and door panels. I just need to finish weld top part of door bars to the hoop. Maybe this weekend I can get it finished and get some pics. Good luck. If I had to do it again I think I would have went with stenod 6-point jig notched.
