lca relo brackets... start in middle hole or bottom???
lca relo brackets... start in middle hole or bottom??? Just wondering once these are welded on what setting I should start at middle or bottom hole....
I realize the bottom hole offers the best lca angle but should I start in the middle and if the car doesn't hook then try the bottom?????
Kiinda wondering if too much of something is too much of a good thing. What's the "bad" part of using the bottom hole.. Everything has to have it's tradeoff...
car is in sig. 530 RWHP Natural asp and looking at about 800ish RW on two stages.... i'm first trying to get it to hook on motor. Madman told me he doesn't care the lca angle as long as it is going up toward the body. 325/50/15 MT DR..... TH400 with 4000 stall and t-brake....
i'm gonna need the bottom hole huh??
I realize the bottom hole offers the best lca angle but should I start in the middle and if the car doesn't hook then try the bottom?????
Kiinda wondering if too much of something is too much of a good thing. What's the "bad" part of using the bottom hole.. Everything has to have it's tradeoff...
car is in sig. 530 RWHP Natural asp and looking at about 800ish RW on two stages.... i'm first trying to get it to hook on motor. Madman told me he doesn't care the lca angle as long as it is going up toward the body. 325/50/15 MT DR..... TH400 with 4000 stall and t-brake....
i'm gonna need the bottom hole huh??
the bottom hole hits the tires harder. It should work for ya on motor, but on spray you might need to go up to the middle. I personally would have it in the bottom until I knew it was the reason I wasn't hooking. Whats the rest of the suspension look like?
Did you say on spray go up to middle????? Don't you mean start on middle for motor and then go down to the bottom on spray???? if not i'm confused....
Rest of the suspension is madman offset lca's, wolfe racecraft swaybar, spohn torque arm, and spohn panhard. QA1's up front and in the back... stock rear springs and 275 lb'rs uup front....
I'm also planning on dumping my spohn torque arm for the madman outlaw unit..... I think the spohn will be fine on motor but i'm gonna need to big boy for spray...
Rest of the suspension is madman offset lca's, wolfe racecraft swaybar, spohn torque arm, and spohn panhard. QA1's up front and in the back... stock rear springs and 275 lb'rs uup front....
I'm also planning on dumping my spohn torque arm for the madman outlaw unit..... I think the spohn will be fine on motor but i'm gonna need to big boy for spray...
You're confused lol. The farther the control arms are angled down, the harder the tires are going to get hit. Like I said, on motor you should be fine, but on spray the nitrous is going to hammer the tires as it is so you might have to bring the control arm back up to the middle to lay off the tires a little.
I've been using the bottom and I've finally figured out with the TA set to -2.5, it hits the tires so hard the suspension unloads/rebounds a few feet off the line and I think that causes it to spin. Mine's a full weight car ... full suspension with no adjustable shocks (currently have old-style HD Bilsteins) ... with only 440 RWHP/415 RWTQ (A4).
I'd say you'll just need to see what works for your particular car/setup/power level. My BMR role brackets only have two holes, which sux because it leaves me with only three options.
I'd say you'll just need to see what works for your particular car/setup/power level. My BMR role brackets only have two holes, which sux because it leaves me with only three options.
Last edited by JEB99TA; Apr 30, 2008 at 04:01 AM. Reason: spelling
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On my old N2O setup the middle whole produced better 60' times. The bottom whole hit the tires so hard the car would bogg thus producing a .2 slower 60' time. This was on foot brake and a 4k stall leaving on 1500-1700 rpm's.
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Assuming a t brake car, start in the middle on motor. You may hit the tires too hard and unload in the bottom hole.
This is without seeing the setup. If the middle hole angles up you are good to start testing.
This is without seeing the setup. If the middle hole angles up you are good to start testing.
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Cool guys exactly the stuff I was looking for.... I realize my combo will have to dictate so I'll put it in the hole that makes the angle go up towards the body which will most likely be the middle since my lca's are straight right now at ride height.... any drop to the rear and they'll be going up. So it looks like i'll start in the middle and go from there....
When I installed the relocation brackets for the lca's, I installed the lca in the lowest hole of the bracket and left it there. It's working for the car, so far so good.
Same here..UMI LCAs set on the bottom hole..hooks like mad...no bogging on some 28x10.5s at the track. Breaks them loose on the street though. 
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Outlaw never mind what the holes are. Get out your Pinion angle Meter and set them at 2-4* up angle to the front of the car 
More up angle more tire crush
More up angle more tire crush
Car is stock height using V6 camaro springs out back..... I think since it's a T-brake TH400 car with a 325/50/15 drag radial i'll put it in the middle.... DR's have a bit stiffer sidewall so i'll get them going up towards the body using the middle hole and try to see how it works.... If it spins i'll lower it... If it drags the bumper i'll buy travel limiters and leave it where it is
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I had the BMR relocation brackets on my 94 Z28 and I used the bottom hole. That thing was consistent as heck, but was only going 12.40@110. Good thing was I was always within .03 all night. Those things do work.
I use the middle hole, 1.29 60' but I went a 1.32 60' using the stock location (which actually had the control arm angling downward) off the t- brake with my old motor that made less power so go figure. Just try them both and see what works-every car is different.
Can't go wrong with listening to Madman.
Can't go wrong with listening to Madman.