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Old May 9, 2008 | 09:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Fahad
All the companies that you guys mentioned is really great and i already know them currectly. i ask W2W about a shortblock 402ci boost motor before a week and they said we need 3 to 4 months to build that engine for you and they don't offer any LSX motors in stock.

I already contact to the LME and waiting for their answer. hopefully soon

I found some LSX motors in stock from some companies and i like one of them it's BRE www.beckracingengines.com and i really like their works with my respect to all companies and i don't have any informations or how is their results on the drag races so can you guys help me out with them PLEASE!

Thanks a lot!

before you go with becks racing engines may I suggest you do a little research

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...ighlight=becks

https://ls1tech.com/forums/small-block-big-block-chevy-specific/836038-beware-beck-racing-engines.html
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Old May 9, 2008 | 11:24 PM
  #22  
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HKE or W2W.... LME is totally out of the running in my book
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Old May 10, 2008 | 03:31 AM
  #23  
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I know there is a shop on here that builds some killer N20 LSX motors...... maybe eastside?

If you want a serious N2O motor I would pick a shop that does mostly that but fro all around I sawy W2W or LME. Both have built or have some of the fastest LSX cars in the country but one is all motor and the other are turbo cars.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 04:28 AM
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Eastside does some serious nitrous engines, they built mine and I've been very happy with it. They dont' sponsor this board any more, so I'll have to leave the contact info up to the thread starter to find on his own, in fear the sponsor ****'s will lock/ban me.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 11:41 AM
  #25  
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wow... i'm really in good hands and that's unexpected info. I really do appreciate your helps and efforts

Matt_D. loool the Google search will Drowning me man, you know!

Samdogmx. you have opened my eyes man, i can't believe it now i have lost one LSX race engine in stock from BRE and i was really interested about what they have

I'm still keeping my eyes in the others and also what you guys give it to me
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Old May 11, 2008 | 01:45 PM
  #26  
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Fahad,

Anything with a 400 shot of NOS and up is not going to last long at all unless you learn to tune it or have people that can. Most of the "1200 hp" NOS cars on this and other boards spend 90 per cent of the time on jack stands. I've seen a lot of this. Keep in mind this is NOT a slam against the shops building "NOS" engines like this but rather the tuning of them. A big shot NOS engine needs correct tuning more than anything else.

Gene Fulton, Pat Musi or Reher and Morrison etc. can build you an all out NOS engine and you can smoke it in one pass without the right tuneup. That's what I would be worried about more than anything else. Any number of the shops mentioned can build you an engine that can certainly do what you are wanting in NOS and hp but your tuner will most likely determnined how long it lasts and how fast you go.

Also it goes without saying that the chassis tuning to hook that much power up is of course all important as well.
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Old May 11, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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Honestly, the best way to go about it would be to build the strongest n/a performer you can with some pistons that can take a 250 hit of nitrous or so, and work your way up on that first, and get the car to work with that level of power.

Honestly if you have the $ you probably can build a 650 rwhp setup that will run in the mid to low 9's n/a and start with a 100 shot, and work your way up from there.

Erik's right, nitrous cars, as fast as they can be, are really a very touchy thing with the tune, fuel pressure, bottle pressure, timing, everything is very very touchy when you get into big pwoer levels.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 03:35 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by racer7088
Fahad,

Anything with a 400 shot of NOS and up is not going to last long at all unless you learn to tune it or have people that can. Most of the "1200 hp" NOS cars on this and other boards spend 90 per cent of the time on jack stands. I've seen a lot of this. Keep in mind this is NOT a slam against the shops building "NOS" engines like this but rather the tuning of them. A big shot NOS engine needs correct tuning more than anything else.

Gene Fulton, Pat Musi or Reher and Morrison etc. can build you an all out NOS engine and you can smoke it in one pass without the right tuneup. That's what I would be worried about more than anything else. Any number of the shops mentioned can build you an engine that can certainly do what you are wanting in NOS and hp but your tuner will most likely determnined how long it lasts and how fast you go.

Also it goes without saying that the chassis tuning to hook that much power up is of course all important as well.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Honestly, the best way to go about it would be to build the strongest n/a performer you can with some pistons that can take a 250 hit of nitrous or so, and work your way up on that first, and get the car to work with that level of power.

Honestly if you have the $ you probably can build a 650 rwhp setup that will run in the mid to low 9's n/a and start with a 100 shot, and work your way up from there.

Erik's right, nitrous cars, as fast as they can be, are really a very touchy thing with the tune, fuel pressure, bottle pressure, timing, everything is very very touchy when you get into big pwoer levels.
Can't agree more, my new motor that I am getting is a big power BBC, under 1,000hp but not a lot less. Its got pretty much the best bottom end in it for nitrous that money can buy. It does just fine all motor or on the bottle.

Im upgrading to a NANO to keep the bottle pressure up and constant along with a bunch of other saftey stuff for it and a direct port for when I want to step up to a big shot.

You CAN NOT SAFLEY just go out and spray big hits (300-400 or more). Its all about tuning, plugs, fuel pressure. Most N20 guys carry A TON of extra plugs with them and change them often. I am sure a lot change them every run to be safe.

For my last engine I had all motor plugs in it but there were two other sets of plugs for different nitrous levels.

You also have to watch your solenoids, progressive controllers are nice but they pulse the solenoids and make them go bad sooner, even with out one you have to check them often. Have one go bad and say bye to your motor or maybe your entire car.

Like said above it better hook, most big hit guys don't use progressives so its not like you can ease into the power off the line, you just hit it and go. INSTANT SHOCK!
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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:25 AM
  #29  
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First day I ran my car on the jug I pulled every pulg after every pass, hell I shut the car off right at the finish line and stopped at the end of the track to pull the plugs right there to make sure it was o.k., left the tools to do it in the passenger's seat, it's that imortant to pull the plugs, and it's very important to shut the car off as soon as possible, especially on initial setups to get a read on the plugs.

Because at the end of the day the plugs are the only thing that are really gonna tell you what's going on in the motor, you can use widebands, egt guages and all that, but the pulgs are what are going to tell the story.

Personally, I'd reccommend getting a car to run n/a first, then pull 5 degrees of timing and start with a 100 shot and the first pass shut it off at the 1/8th mile mark and pull the car off and coast the car off the track and get a read on the plugs right there on the return road. This way you can get an idea where you're at before making a full run, nitrous tends to eat parts on the back 1/2 of the track, so getting a read after a 1/8th mile you can see if there's something going on.

Then work up on the tune, via the timing, fuel pressure, etc.etc. Until you know what you have to do to get the best safe power out of a 100 shot, then move up to a 150.

This is the way to go about it if you have no support staff that has alot of nitrous experience. If you have people that can help you you probably can move along a little quicker, maybe start off with 150, but don't go crazy or you'll tlast that 20+ grand motor in a real hurry and not be all too happy about it.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:25 AM
  #30  
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Going with a carb setup will make it a lot easier to tune in my opinion... Up the fuel pressure, change some jets, play with the timing a little and your done.. Run a good race plug and some good fuel.. Hit it with 200 and check the plugs.. Go from there.. Pretty easy actually.. Just keep it a little on the rich side..
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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Plug choice also VERY important, when in doubt, go to a colder plug then you need, you won't hurt stuff with too cold a plug, to hot, you're gonna have a glowplug instead of a spark plug, which is bad news.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 08:52 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by racer7088
Fahad,

Anything with a 400 shot of NOS and up is not going to last long at all unless you learn to tune it or have people that can. Most of the "1200 hp" NOS cars on this and other boards spend 90 per cent of the time on jack stands. I've seen a lot of this. Keep in mind this is NOT a slam against the shops building "NOS" engines like this but rather the tuning of them. A big shot NOS engine needs correct tuning more than anything else.

Gene Fulton, Pat Musi or Reher and Morrison etc. can build you an all out NOS engine and you can smoke it in one pass without the right tuneup. That's what I would be worried about more than anything else. Any number of the shops mentioned can build you an engine that can certainly do what you are wanting in NOS and hp but your tuner will most likely determnined how long it lasts and how fast you go.

Also it goes without saying that the chassis tuning to hook that much power up is of course all important as well.

Well stated Eric.....have seen it to many times, and who do they call & scream at? The builder...not themselves for getting the tune wrong.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 03:50 AM
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If a friend goes with you you can have them help you push your car to the pits and pull the plugs there if you did not want to do it on the return road. Or find someone there with an ATV and give them a little bit of money to pull your car back after your runs.

Like said above start with a small shot and go up, like a 100 and start with a plug one step colder then you think you will need.

A builder just builds you a motor, its up to you to keep it going. With race engines you also have to keep an eye on valvetrain parts rather often, one of those go and it can be bad news. Thats why like said above most of us spend 90% of the time on jack stands keeping an eye on everything.

I will also be runing at least a oil pan heater and coolant heater, that how paranoid I am when it comes to engine saftey.

Build an all motor car with a bottom end to handle the nitrous and take baby steps, big steps make glow plugs.....
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Old May 13, 2008 | 07:14 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
Well stated Eric.....have seen it to many times, and who do they call & scream at? The builder...not themselves for getting the tune wrong.
AMEN!
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Old May 13, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by WeberRacingEquipment
AMEN!
I take it you have been yelled at more then a few times for the same reason hahaha?
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Old May 14, 2008 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JUICED96Z
I take it you have been yelled at more then a few times for the same reason hahaha?
Well we have been around for awhile so we had our share of stories. Some people just not setting stuff up properly. Proper wiring causing no power to fuel noids. Faulty ignition/retard boxes.Trying to go all out on the first pass with no prior testing or data logging. Customer leaving screwdriver bits in the intake...ya know pretty much whatever you can think of. There is alot that can happen, just have to be careful...check and double check.
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Old May 14, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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wow........................
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Old May 17, 2008 | 07:48 PM
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Lesson here is that there are a group of capable builders... that list was small just 4 years ago.. We are lucky yo have the choices we do. I used a site sponser.. one without a banner oddly.. First choice was Kurt, but couldnt find him when I needed him. Rev, Weber and some of the others mentioned in this thread have Proven engines out there. Its great the LS series has been given attention by good shops!
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Old May 17, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Klive
HKE or W2W.... LME is totally out of the running in my book
bwahahhahahaha

Then your book must be called "The best LSx builders......except for the fastest"

You do know who built the fastest stock suspended LSx in the world right???? Apparently you don't. Might want to read this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/921122-2000-hp-lsx-pics.html
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Old May 17, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Maybe next time Jason! I am in the middle of setting up my new building so I will be ready for you next time. I am sure you will do well!

Kurt
Originally Posted by Jammer
Lesson here is that there are a group of capable builders... that list was small just 4 years ago.. We are lucky yo have the choices we do. I used a site sponser.. one without a banner oddly.. First choice was Kurt, but couldnt find him when I needed him. Rev, Weber and some of the others mentioned in this thread have Proven engines out there. Its great the LS series has been given attention by good shops!
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