Minimum wiring required for dedicated race car.
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From: Sumter, South Carolina
Minimum wiring required for dedicated race car. Mod may have a better place for this inquiry.
I have a 2000 Camaro. She is preped for drag racing only.
I'm trying to get as much help for my mechanic/business partner as I can. I have a Painless 8 Circuit Harness/Switch that i'm using for the basic lighting, water pump, fans, the nitrous system control. Using mechanical window regulators etc.
* Need to know required wiring for ECU
* Using a Racetronix intank pump for motor for now
* The steering column is stripped so just ign and momentary button relacated on switch panel. Please point me to a specific thread that has required wiring for ECU - {what do i need to start? and run} (which is by the way being relocated to the passenger side floor board along with nitrous controllers, 2 step and a few other goodies.) Also any sites you may know of with ideas on how other guys laid out the wiring on their cars. Any help is appreciated.
* I am keeping the stock ECU for a few months. After that plans for a BS3...just not right away.
*Trans is a TH400 no electronics required there.
Thanks -
Macon
I have a 2000 Camaro. She is preped for drag racing only.
I'm trying to get as much help for my mechanic/business partner as I can. I have a Painless 8 Circuit Harness/Switch that i'm using for the basic lighting, water pump, fans, the nitrous system control. Using mechanical window regulators etc.
* Need to know required wiring for ECU
* Using a Racetronix intank pump for motor for now
* The steering column is stripped so just ign and momentary button relacated on switch panel. Please point me to a specific thread that has required wiring for ECU - {what do i need to start? and run} (which is by the way being relocated to the passenger side floor board along with nitrous controllers, 2 step and a few other goodies.) Also any sites you may know of with ideas on how other guys laid out the wiring on their cars. Any help is appreciated.
* I am keeping the stock ECU for a few months. After that plans for a BS3...just not right away.
*Trans is a TH400 no electronics required there.
Thanks -
Macon
Get a wiring diagram and use it to hook up what you need to keep the stock pcm.
No one on here is going to be able to tell you how to wire everything on your car and it is much easier to get a diagram and decide what you do and do not want to keep and how to tie into the factory wires that you need.
No one on here is going to be able to tell you how to wire everything on your car and it is much easier to get a diagram and decide what you do and do not want to keep and how to tie into the factory wires that you need.
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From: Sumter, South Carolina
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 1
From: Sumter, South Carolina
No one on here is going to be able to tell you how to wire everything on your car and it is much easier to get a diagram and decide what you do and do not want to keep and how to tie into the factory wires that you need.
Thanks anyway - i'm sure we will be just fine. LOL.
The easiest way to do it is......
When disassembling the car, cut off the ends of all the crap your going to eliminate. Mark each end as to where it goes and location. Remove the harness and remove the excess wiring, connectors, ect on a big table. I ended up buying a custom harness from a buddy, if you'd like the info I can PM it. The harness's are very nice, compact fuse block and all the wiring is labeled. I wired my entire car in 2 days including all power equipment and mirrors.
When disassembling the car, cut off the ends of all the crap your going to eliminate. Mark each end as to where it goes and location. Remove the harness and remove the excess wiring, connectors, ect on a big table. I ended up buying a custom harness from a buddy, if you'd like the info I can PM it. The harness's are very nice, compact fuse block and all the wiring is labeled. I wired my entire car in 2 days including all power equipment and mirrors.
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I am very serious. I did it to my car, pulled about 1.2 the wire out of the entire car. I have a bunch of **** left to get rid of still, but I don't think I'l do it until I have the engine out so I can get right in the engine bay with the harness and get all the uneeded stuff out of it.
At that point, I am going to attempt to get rid of the fuse boxes from the engine compartment, and relocate them under the dash. If all goes well (cross fingers) there won't be hardly any wire in the engine bay at all when I'm finished.
I am sure some wires will need extending, and alot will need to be shortened, but one at a time and it will get done.
It's either that, or just cut it all out, and start from scratch. But to do that and have everything work, is not gonna be easy.
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I am doing this same thing to my Mustang right now and was talking to a friend on how someone could make a lot of money if they would write a book on racecar wiring and how much needs to actually be there. Chilton's is worthless.
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From: Sumter, South Carolina
60 Vette - thanks for PM - returned. JLW7 - As I said, my car bare *** naked. The fuse boxes up front are history.
On my Painless 8 Circuit Harness -
Lights switch = low beams only on/off with Painless
Each corner gets a park lamp (no side markers) = switched
Overhead light interior uses stock switch sent to seperate circuit
Fans = ON/Off
Water Pump=ON/OFF
N20 uses a fuel pump switch - Momentary Purge UP/On Down
2nd Fuel Pump - deleted
Starter-Momentary on Painless
Ignition-On/Off on Painless
I have a plexi shelf where the passenger seat was. PCM, FJO Mini, and Ligenfelter 2 step go there with 2 buss bars for power and extra fuese. There won't be but a few fuese needed the the Painless harness can't supply. Maybe a couple of relays.
I get photos asap...
Alvin, my Tuner @ PCM4Less.com will turn off all the superfulous (sp) stuff on the PCM. I just have to solder in some extentions to move the PCM inside the drivers cab. I don't want to extend a bunch oif wires I don't need. Thanks guys.
On my Painless 8 Circuit Harness -
Lights switch = low beams only on/off with Painless
Each corner gets a park lamp (no side markers) = switched
Overhead light interior uses stock switch sent to seperate circuit
Fans = ON/Off
Water Pump=ON/OFF
N20 uses a fuel pump switch - Momentary Purge UP/On Down
2nd Fuel Pump - deleted
Starter-Momentary on Painless
Ignition-On/Off on Painless
I have a plexi shelf where the passenger seat was. PCM, FJO Mini, and Ligenfelter 2 step go there with 2 buss bars for power and extra fuese. There won't be but a few fuese needed the the Painless harness can't supply. Maybe a couple of relays.
I get photos asap...
Alvin, my Tuner @ PCM4Less.com will turn off all the superfulous (sp) stuff on the PCM. I just have to solder in some extentions to move the PCM inside the drivers cab. I don't want to extend a bunch oif wires I don't need. Thanks guys.
My car is carbed but has a ton of wiring from when it was stock and just stuff I don't need.
When I was and am pulling it apart still I cut the wires to things I don't need anymore. Now I am going back and any wire I cut I pull from te fuse boxes.
You have to take your time or when you go to fire the car up things may or may not work.
I am keeping lights (only light inside is the dome), gauge lighting and wiring for tach, speedo, fuel quantity and thats it. Right now the car uses the stock ignition wiring for the distributor pick up but I am going full digital with the ignition and I bet will not rely on the stock wiring.
I am hiding the bundle that goes to the headlights under the fender and if I can the bundle that goes to the starter will be behined the dash (may not be worth the effor though) and all the ignition stuff will be under the dash.
If I was you I would get the GM electrical service manual for the car (I have one for my beater 94 Sunbird) and it will give you all that info. Mine shows me what every pin in my computer is for.
Buy them online, don't go threw the dealer, much cheaper.
When I was and am pulling it apart still I cut the wires to things I don't need anymore. Now I am going back and any wire I cut I pull from te fuse boxes.
You have to take your time or when you go to fire the car up things may or may not work.
I am keeping lights (only light inside is the dome), gauge lighting and wiring for tach, speedo, fuel quantity and thats it. Right now the car uses the stock ignition wiring for the distributor pick up but I am going full digital with the ignition and I bet will not rely on the stock wiring.
I am hiding the bundle that goes to the headlights under the fender and if I can the bundle that goes to the starter will be behined the dash (may not be worth the effor though) and all the ignition stuff will be under the dash.
If I was you I would get the GM electrical service manual for the car (I have one for my beater 94 Sunbird) and it will give you all that info. Mine shows me what every pin in my computer is for.
Buy them online, don't go threw the dealer, much cheaper.
I just got a subscription for a year to Alldatadiy.com they have all the wiring diagrams by system, plug/connector schematics for each pin, and a ton more stuff... I think it was less than $50 and has a ton more info.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/312119-ls1-swap-faqs.html
very good info, but im still lost a littel. I was slowly pullin wires until i guess i pulled the wrong one now it wont start.
How many people have just cut all the wires completely and rewired what they needed themselves. if im correct it only takes not that many wires to have a car up and running. my car is bare bones and i only want what i have to have, such as start the thing for starters and all the engine sensors to get it down the track.
very good info, but im still lost a littel. I was slowly pullin wires until i guess i pulled the wrong one now it wont start.
How many people have just cut all the wires completely and rewired what they needed themselves. if im correct it only takes not that many wires to have a car up and running. my car is bare bones and i only want what i have to have, such as start the thing for starters and all the engine sensors to get it down the track.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: West Linn, Oregon
I just used the method described by JL ws-6 above. I have it down to only the bare minimum to run the systems I still have in my car, and I used a Haynes manual found at any auto parts store for my wire diagrams (some were not 100% correct, but it still helped, other then that I traced the wire all the way through before I did any cutting, ther are some that are strange and go to a component and then also to the ALDL or something, just be sure you don't just go around snipping everything or you will never be able to change your tune, ask me how I know, LOL... I had to go back and put the wires back in that went to the ALDL, even though it also went to something I took of, I just didn't run it to that part...
get you a spaghetti menders wiring kit... its high but its probably some of the best money i've spent... it will save you time on installation and time when troubleshooting
it has inputs and outputs for line, T-brake or clutch interrupt, WOT switch, neutral saftey input, kill switch input.... almost anything you want they have or can make and it keeps it all together and in neat order.... i have the one for 2 nitrous kits with 2 digiset timers built in... check it out below
it has inputs and outputs for line, T-brake or clutch interrupt, WOT switch, neutral saftey input, kill switch input.... almost anything you want they have or can make and it keeps it all together and in neat order.... i have the one for 2 nitrous kits with 2 digiset timers built in... check it out below
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
Wow, and I thought the switch plate I did today was good enough, I am still trying to get it all together...
I still run the lights and ignition off of the stock switches, but have plenty of room in my switch plate to add more items later...
One day I will get around to labeling them, but here is what I have now...
I still run the lights and ignition off of the stock switches, but have plenty of room in my switch plate to add more items later...
One day I will get around to labeling them, but here is what I have now...
