MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

well after 3 years, I finally made it out to the track to do some shake down passes on my car to see how the new tires act, and to make sure the suspension stays tight.

I'm HORRIBLY dissapointed with my times, but a few things to consider. I have old gas in the car from last year, I didn't have my shift light on (hit the rev limiter a few times), didn't have a line lock, so I don't think I heated the tires enough. ALL NEW SHOCKS AND SUSPENSION. So something needs adjusting maybe. And honestly, I don't know if I had my foot to the floor on the gas. I think I was too worried about watching my rpms and shifting to even pay attention to the gas. Stupid, but I think it happened. I still have a LOT of tuning to do, but she better have a lot more in her. I'll post my tickets with my estimated launch RPM's and my rear shock settings.

also I went pretty easy/slow on the shifting

Oh and this is N/A no spray. only driver seat and no carpet. Nevermind the shitting R/T's but see what the numbers tell you

1st pass of the season - probably a 5k RPM launch, both rear QA1's set at 6
R/T .265
60' 1.965
330 5.669
1/8 8.639
MPH 81.04
1000 11.138
1/4 13.214
MPH 107.90

Second pass -- still set at 6 on the rears tried to launch around 5.5k rpm
R/T -.044
60' 1.890
330 5.608
1/8 8.591
MPH 82.29
1000 11.106
1/4 13.167
MPH 110.40

3rd pass -- same shock setting. missed 4th gear (it went into 2nd) so my speed slowed way down
R/T -.356
60' 1.787
330 5.368
1/8 8.261
MPH 85.44
1000 10.698
1/4 13.067
MPH 90.12

4th pass -- about 5.5k rpms -- changed the shocks to 7 on the driver, 8 on the passenger
R/T -.106
60' 2.038
330 5.708
1/8 8.644
MPH 83.09
1000 11.098
1/4 13.175
MPH 108.94

5th pass -- 5-5.5k rpms, 7/8 on the shocks (same as 4th), dropped tire pressure to 14psi
R/T .027
60' 1.998
330 5.756
1/8 8.719
MPH 83.72
1000 11.216
1/4 13.327
MPH 107.42

I started the night at 15psi on the tires (MT ET streets, 28" x 11.50), MT front runners upfront at 35psi
Rears warmed up to around 16psi after the runs, last pass I dropped the pressure down to 14psi.


SO shitty times, but it was my first time out with the setup, lot of things to work on, but I want to see what you guys think. The reason I noted that the last run I went to 14psi is that the tire guy at the track who set up my tires, said it looked like I had been spinning on the rim (b/c he lines up the M/T with the valve stem) So for the last pass, he had me drop to 14psi and chalk the tires. made my pass and they moved another 1-2 inches. I probably moved the entire tire over 6 inches from all of the passes

I didn't see anybody else having problems with this! So I guess I have to screw the tires ($70)

TA is set to 0*. I know most people here say -2* but my shop said ideally 0* is where you want to have it?

**Now i'll sit back and wait for the HELPFUL comments and questions lol!**

96lt1ss

iTrader: (4)

Not to be mean, but with that MPH those ets are about right. Car obviously needs tuned.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

I was hitting 12.7-8 before my cage and suspension mods and tires at a higher RPM


I also forgot to mention that right before the finish line I would hit the rev limiter (6700rpm) in 3rd gear.

I have 3.90 gears.

What do I need to do to address that issue?

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

Thats a solid mid. 12 second car with a 110 MPH, hell i ran 12.44 @ 108 on a 1.72 60ft., but that was another car, anywho, you HAD a 12 sec. run on that 8.2 1/8 untill you mist 4th., heck 13.0 @ 90, SOLID 12 sec. run, how the heck did you miss 4th lol, i useally miss 3rd. , get the bugs out, then get back in the 1.7 60ft. range, you'll see 12.6-12.7s i'll garauntee, i don't think adding the bar hurt you one bit, they will tie the car together & normally you'll get better times from it being more stable.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

107/108/110 MPH is know where near a 13.2-13.3, 101-102 yes, 110 is a solid second faster, i ran 13.3s 13.4s @ 100 in my Dart all day long.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It's a start, and you have to start somewhere.

Is your car a stick car or auto? If it's a stick car you need to be using 4th gear, that solves the car hitting the limiter.

Get the shift light in, and start off with it about 300 rpm before you want to shift, this way it gives you a second to react.


If you haven't had the car tuned, get that done, there's probably all kinds of goofy tune stuff going on that's costing you 20 hp at least.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

"How did you miss 4th?" --- shift *** came loose during the run LOL

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

6spd car. Im shifting into 4th right before I hit the line. I have the shift light and a 2-step ready.

Car has been tuned, but once I get the spray ready to test, I'm going to retune it and make sure everything is to the max


Anybody have any suggestions about me spinning the rim on the tires? I didn't think I'd have to screw my wheels?

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

If your spinning the rim on the tires, you need screws, no biggie though, Man you need to go into 4th & get that nod fixed lol, like was said, get you a shift light, i set mine around 200 rpm before i want to shift.

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

I would try lower pressure in the tires. I think you'll be using 4th on the spray, so wait to make any changes until after you hit it with the juice.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

how low of a tire pressure should I go? Especially since it looks like I have to screw it anyways...

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

dont go lower than 12.youll hook.screw those rims.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

After you screw the rims, play with the shocks too "If there adj. which they should be" & tire pressure, 15 i think is alittle high for Slicks, 11-12.5 seems to be a good area, you'll just need to have someone there video tapeing your lauches (zoomed in) so you can see how the suspention is acting, front lift/rear seperation/how much wrinkle, stuff like that, i went through all this with my Duster running in the 10.8s & 1.5 60fts. fun-fun-fun lol.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

well they aren't full slicks, ET Streets, bias ply DOT tires

but yeah everything suspension wise is adjustable, so I'll play with the shocks some more when we have a track rental in july.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I've had the best luck wth bias ply tires in general between 12 and 16 psi, smaller the tire, the more air they need


I'd put them at 12 next time you go before your first burnout, see what that gets you.

Put 8 screws per side, 32 total and be done with it. get the moroso screws, they're short enough to not go all teh way thru so thetires shouldn't leak too bad, summit ones will go all the way thru the bead on the tire (ask me how I know, as I pump up the tires every 6 days)

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

Yep, i had the summit screws in mine, every 4-5 days i was putting air in them, they went more then half way down.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

with a ms3 cam you need more then a 3.89 gear.... launch the fk out of it

try a 4.30+ becuase with 28" slicks & that ms3 its gonna have to have it unless the car is super light.

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

My car goes 11.7 on motor (I know it's nothing to brag about) with the same cam, 3.89's with a TH350 on a nitrous tune. I don't think the gearing is the issue. I've never had a set of ET streets spin on the wheel before, and I usually ran 10-11 psi.

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

there is the reason you never had a problem.


FWIW i had that cam a couple years ago with a big stalled auto. worked great with a 4k verter & loved the kit. BUT n/a in a stick car, you better gear the **** out of it

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

plus my car is a pig so the weight had something to do with it too I think


I don't want to change the gearing yet as I want to see what it'll do on the spray after I get all of the other bugs worked out