slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I am having charging issues 98 camaro with Big stuff 3. I have a cut off switch, brand new alternator, I've tried a couple batteries, and I still loose voltage when the car is running. (13.3 - when the car is not running, and 10.8 when the car is running) I never changed anything over the winter. I did freshen the engine and I think I hooked everything back up properly. I am looking for trouble shooting ideas from you guy's. Here is the set up... I have a #2 cable from the alternator to the kill switch. Then a #0/1 cable from the switch to the battery. It is a stock AC Delco alternator. The only other thing I can think of is a ground. Does the alternator have a ground cable that I forgot to reconnect? Feel free to shoot me more quesions if I left anything out. ANy help would be appreciated, thanks

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Test the voltage at the alternator itself, and on both sides of the switch, shouldn't be anything to forget to connect on the alternator it just uses the weather connect plug in right? Or is it one other than the OE style alternator?

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

Ya it just uses the stock wheather connecting plug. How do I check the alternator itself. Do I unhook the #2 Aug cable from the alternator and start the car up and check voltage at the "hot pole" ( I think that is what it is called). I don't have a volt meter, I am using my new "big fancy" battery charger to check the voltage the alternator is putting out. So i guess i hook up the posative cable (from the charger) to the "hot pole" on the alternator and the black cable to the ground on the car. That will show me what the alternator is putting out right?

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I did a bunch of wire removal in the winter but I don't think any of that wire should affect the alternator charging the battery. Also, while the engine was out getting freshed, I was doing some wiring and the #2 line from the switch to the alternator (that wasn't connected) ground out on the frame and needless to say there was some smoke in the garage. Is it possible that the #2 cable is the issue. I don't remember seeing a inline fuse on that cable. I'm at work today, but I guess I will check that first.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Uh yeah grounding out a wire is a good possibility, maybe the voltage regulator is f-ed up?

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

The wire wasn't connected to the alternator at the time. I just put a brand new alternator in yesterday, and still not getting a charge going to the battery.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

you have to send a reference signal to the alternator plug to start charging. the stock ECU used to do that... a 470-500 ohm resistor on a switched 12V source to the stock plug on the alternator (there was only one wire on that plug) should get you going.

Other option is to have your alternator converted to a "self-exciting" style which any competent alternator rebuilder should be able to do...

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I still have the stock computer with that single red wire going to the alt. That never changed. but I did take out other wiring to the computer. I wonder if the problem lies in some of the oter wiring I cut out. I looked in my helms manual and basically i cut out all the stuff to the guage cluseter, for that circuit ( I think). I'd have to look at the wiring diagram again to see if there was anything else, but ya that single red wire is still hooked up from the alt to the stock ECU.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

So if I hooked up a new wire from a pink (switched) power to the alt with a inline resistor, it should send a reference signal to start charging?

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

if everything else is correct, then yes.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

It's the everything else that I think is the issue. So the resistor is built into the stock computer?

So All i need is a reference signal wire to the alt, then from the alt to the switch, and from the switch to the battery right. All the other **** has nothing to do with actually charging the battery.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

so I hooked up a wire to a pink "switched" power wire and then to a 470 ohm resistor then to the stock red wire that goes to the alt and still nothing. The way I had it hooked up was 12v constant to the red wire. That was until I noticed it today. Is it possible that I fried the voltage regulator in the new alt? Would a 12v constant with no resistor in line fry the voltage regulator? do i have to go and buy another alt? Any opinions?

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

yes 12V constant can fry it. need to put a load on it, hence the need for the resistor.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

well I tried putting a 470 ohm resistor in line with a switched 12v and still nothing. so then I tried 2 470 ohm resistors twisted together at each end to send a little more wattage through ( because they were only .25 w resistors) and still nothing. So then i took the ****** resistors out and wired it up to a straight 12 v supply and finnaly it helped a little. it went from 13 not started to 10.8 started , then when I hooked it up to 12v direct it was sending a "partial charge" of 11.8 - 12.2. while it was started. Shouldn't it jump up to like 13.5-13.8 if it was sending a full charge to the battery? i had everything I could running. Fans, fuel pumps head lights - just to try and draw as much as I could so the alt would send a max charge. Any thoughts?

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

I'd take the alt off and to a shop to load test it to see if its working fine..

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

FWIW, the L-term connection for the 98's comes from the cluster not the PCM.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I have a 98. So is there a schematic showing which pin or color wire it is on the cluster or ? I Thought on the 98's that red wire went to the stock PCM, I just haven't had time to trace it. This is starting to make sense because I was looking for a red wire on the stock PCM on the engine management side. I guess I will take a look at the stock guage cluster for a red wire. Is there already a resistor built into that stock red wire? Thanks Harlan, you are saving me from sleepless nights, and huge headacks.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

Well I took both alternators in to get load tested and one was good the other one wasn't. I put the good one back in the car and used a 470 ohm resistor inline between the red alt wire and a switched 12 V. It worked right away. Thanks for your help it was greatly appreciated.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

good deal