roll cage info
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From: Rock Hill, South Carolina
roll cage info needing a roll cage for my car tracks around here even the locals are starting to crack down on the book rules. also my parents and girlfriend (mainly the girlfriend) really wants me to get a cage which i can respect that so...
im looking into a cage but its in my street/strip car it will be a low 10's or high 9's 1/4 mile car.
basically i want the biggest, safest cage without have to run the bars through my dash and stuff because its not an all out drag car.
can anyone post pics of their similar setups?
how much should i be looking to spend on a cage?
im looking into a cage but its in my street/strip car it will be a low 10's or high 9's 1/4 mile car.
basically i want the biggest, safest cage without have to run the bars through my dash and stuff because its not an all out drag car.
can anyone post pics of their similar setups?
how much should i be looking to spend on a cage?
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
Our 10 point is good to 8.50. It is CM and includes the window net. They start at 1800.00 installed. We always run the window bars through the dash. It adds structure and strength to the cage. It you needed to test the cage this setup is a lot stronger than a cage with bends to clear the dash. The bends become the collapse point. Straight bars do not collapse nearly as easy.
Here is a picture of my 6-point roll bar. An 8-point (the only difference from mine is the two small kicker bars to the back seats) is good to 10.00 in the quarter mile with an unmodified floor pan and firewall. That is your best bet without having to run the extra two bars through the dash, especially if it rarely ever sees 9's unless you spray it once in a blue moon. One more thing, do not try to sacrfice safety trying to conserve comfortability by only installing a 4-point without the doorbars. I have daily driven my for nearly 2 years with this cage in it and after a few times of getting used to hopping over the door bar, it's as if they are never there. Good luck on your decision!
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
.
Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
Amen to that!
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From: Rock Hill, South Carolina
as in 358chevycamaros post, can i run the race harness with my stock SS seats? is there a NHRA rule about the seats or is changing to race seats only weight reduction?
.
Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
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7 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Here is a picture of my 6-point roll bar. An 8-point (the only difference from mine is the two small kicker bars to the back seats) is good to 10.00 in the quarter mile with an unmodified floor pan and firewall. That is your best bet without having to run the extra two bars through the dash, especially if it rarely ever sees 9's unless you spray it once in a blue moon. One more thing, do not try to sacrfice safety trying to conserve comfortability by only installing a 4-point without the doorbars. I have daily driven my for nearly 2 years with this cage in it and after a few times of getting used to hopping over the door bar, it's as if they are never there. Good luck on your decision!
A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) is legal from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). An 8-point bar adds the 2 bars off the main hoop to reinforce the bar to the subframe connectors (if present) or the rear subframe torque boxes. They are not required on a roll bar but are required on a roll cage.
More info here:
www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=880990
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i lik this thread because after this winter i should be at this point wats better the ove the seat or through the panels for the rear bars? also im 6'4" and i really need to be able to lean the seat back a bit to be able to drive it does the crossbar stop u from being able to hav the seat back all the way and tilted back some?
Indukted1 does that fit through the door now that you have it partially assembled. I'm guessing yes since you do it, but it doesn't look like it would. I'm guessing you take at least one of the doors off.
I have seen a few that have the crossbar set back to give the seat more room, but I don't know how legal that is. It definitely isn't as strong as having the crossbar directly in line with the hoop.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
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Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.
.
HERE HERE! Out of every thing I have did with this car the cage was the turning point.
No matter how hard you try on thise cars once it run's a nine and you HAVE to put the cage in street days are not nearly as much fun. My Wife won't even get IN my car now so it only gets used for racing now...
Here's the Sportsman(8.50)cage in my "street" car.... may be more than what you're looking to do. Everyone's tolerance for the effort is negotiable. Car was built by Jon Sandahl @ Tube Chassis Designz in Mass. back in '94.
