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Need some advise on launching

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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #1  
WS6 Canada's Avatar
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Launching!
 
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Default Need some advise on launching

List of mods:
QA1 R in front 300lb spring (setting 1)
QA1 rears 150spring with adjustable mount (setting 6)
Spohn drag bar
all the chassis stuff
Stange 12 bolt spool 4.10
M/T 275/60/15 drag radials


here is my question: when i lauch ,my rear passanger side is squating bad and i am lifting the front drivers, thus unloading the drivers/rear tire (spinning 50/70feet)


What should I adjust??

I am running a 150 wet N2O off the line. I dump the clutch at 3500rpm
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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With a manual car I would have got a 9", besides that I would leave around 5,000 and have the nitrous activate as soon as the clutch is released. Just set up a switch on the clutch so the nitrous won't activate until it is released, then use a two step, set it to 5,000 and floor the car, and side step the clutch.
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Launching!
 
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who makes a good two step???
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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If you have the Spohn drag bar all you should have to do is preload (extend the link) the side that's squatting. I'd adjust it it 2 full turns to start and go from there.
If your springs are adjustable you can stiffen them up as well but with the spohn you have to adjust them evenly on both sides.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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I think lingenfelter makes one. As far as preload I don't know if I would start with 2 full turns, maybe half a turn to start with from zero preload.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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I made my hal one click stiffer on the pass-rear and added the BMR rear drag bar. I made adj-to the pass-side till the car went straight.This made my car(also a m6)leave straight and dropped my 60's a lot. 1.42 best n/a on a 346ci. I kept running 1/8mi till I got it down.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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Launching!
 
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How do you know where zero pre load is???
I should start from scratch....

Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 03:34 AM
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It comes with instructions, you have to jack up the front of the car and take measurements. From what I remember you jack up the front until the 2 front wheels are just barely off the ground then you measure the distance from the bottom of the rear rear door seams to the floor with a driver in the car. If the measurements are the same on both sides that's zero preload. If you call them they are pretty cool at helping you out as well.
Took me 3 1/2 full turns to get her to go straight from zero. If you rolling over that much I still think 2 full truns is a good starting point, if you start going left you could always dial it back but starting with 1/2 turn incremements certainly is another option.
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 12:10 PM
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Zero preload is when the bolts of the anti roll bar links will slide in and out.

Preload refers to how much the link is turned on the anti roll bar to apply more force to that side of the car. If both of the bolts can slide in and out easy that is zero preload.

The rear end twists when the car launches and pushes down on the left tire and tries to raise the right, the body shifts back and to the right. You preload or lengthen the right side link until the effect is countered.

It's easiest when you have it on scales, then you can preload the bar and see the actual changes with the weight on each tire. Without scales I would just install the anti roll bar and give it about a 1/2 turn to lengthen the passenger side link and launch the car, then add a little more length until it leaves and runs straight without squatting to one side.

No car is the same, some cars will work with 1/4 turn, some need 3 or 4 full turns or more, there are a lot of variables. Just put it on and adjust it until the car leaves straight and level, there is no magic setup or number of turns, adjust it till it works best for your car in small 1/4 - 1/2 turns until you get your best 60fts.

When you adjust the preload you should be in the car when it is done.
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