glass hood guys, any reason for rails vs brackets???
07-22-2008, 08:02 PM
#41
Mark any plans to make those to work with an firebird/transam?
I so want to put a joe van o hood on my car, but the thought of the headache of teh deuz fastners not wanting to close because of a flimsey bracket that they have to ckip into is stopping me.
These rails may be a good solution to this problem.....
I so want to put a joe van o hood on my car, but the thought of the headache of teh deuz fastners not wanting to close because of a flimsey bracket that they have to ckip into is stopping me.
These rails may be a good solution to this problem.....
07-22-2008, 08:30 PM
#42
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Thanks man, like I said, my buddy did it, I never would have been able to do it that good, and man, where the hell were those rails when I needed them, those things are sweet!
07-23-2008, 06:24 AM
#43
Firebird Rails We are getting a Firebird in the shop next week to do a rear wing. I am sure we can do rails for that car also.
Mark
http://www.racecraft.com
Mark
http://www.racecraft.com
07-23-2008, 06:47 AM
#44
Please let me know about the rails, I'd love to go that route with it.
I'm running a burkhart nose support as well, not sure if a rail for the front can be made to attach with the 3 clips that hold the center of the transam/firebird bumper cover, if so then you've got my $
I'm running a burkhart nose support as well, not sure if a rail for the front can be made to attach with the 3 clips that hold the center of the transam/firebird bumper cover, if so then you've got my $
07-31-2008, 05:03 PM
#49
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sweet install pics for the guys that still used mounting plates. I got mine in finally and I'm going to be getting pics of the hood very soon as I have to finish it up today to drop it off for paint. I'm runnin at Pinks All Out on september 5th so i'm scrambling to get the car 100% finished and wrap up loose ends....
For anyone not going with rails (If the racecraft kit was out before i started I would have gone that route) here's some tips. DO NOT USE rivets. They'll just pull right thru the fiberglass.... They suck... Use either bolts with nuts or a really agressive sheetmetal screw and go all the way thru the metal backing. Drill a full size smaller hole than the sheetmetal screw and use all three holes in the backing plate.... You'll have to drill out the plates for the use of bigger screws since the holes are tiny..... I'd say use a minimum of 5-6 on the sides and at least 3 across the front...... I'll have a pic of how I did my fronts to preclude the use of the fiberglass in the nose (which is VERY thin) so even bolts or screws wouldn't pull thru....
For anyone not going with rails (If the racecraft kit was out before i started I would have gone that route) here's some tips. DO NOT USE rivets. They'll just pull right thru the fiberglass.... They suck... Use either bolts with nuts or a really agressive sheetmetal screw and go all the way thru the metal backing. Drill a full size smaller hole than the sheetmetal screw and use all three holes in the backing plate.... You'll have to drill out the plates for the use of bigger screws since the holes are tiny..... I'd say use a minimum of 5-6 on the sides and at least 3 across the front...... I'll have a pic of how I did my fronts to preclude the use of the fiberglass in the nose (which is VERY thin) so even bolts or screws wouldn't pull thru....
08-17-2008, 07:24 AM
#53
I got mine installed. No big deal except for the one back by the mirrior (only needed if you are using the VFN extended Sunoco hood). Most of the work is prepping the hood. You have to completely remove the 90 degree lip that runs down both sides of the hood so the hood will sit flat on the rails.
08-17-2008, 02:52 PM
#56
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I got mine installed. No big deal except for the one back by the mirrior (only needed if you are using the VFN extended Sunoco hood). Most of the work is prepping the hood. You have to completely remove the 90 degree lip that runs down both sides of the hood so the hood will sit flat on the rails.
08-18-2008, 02:23 PM
#58
I'm out of town until tonight. I will try to get some pictures. You may be able to leave a little lip on the sides but on extended hood, there is one mount back by the mirror and all the lip has to come off there. It is not hard to do. I just used a high speed cut it and sanding block to clean it up. The hood has to sit flush against the rails. On mine you can see the rails through the space between the hood and the fender. But, I'm not real concerned since my car is silver.
08-19-2008, 08:39 AM
#60
I don't claim to be an expert since this is my first time to install this type of hood. If I remember correctly (I've been wrong before) they said they used a Harwood hood to design these rails. Harwood hoods don't have the lip. I cut mine off and cleaned it up by sanding it with 60 grit then 240 grit. I had to make 3 separate cuts at the windshield to get it to fit like I wanted. It just takes time. If you look at the pictures you can see that hood sits directly on the rails. I'm not pleased with the fit of the hood. There is adjustability of the fender at the front and up by the mirrors.