Balast
#1
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Balast
I am running in the 10.90 index and I know right now the car will run 10.6x so I need ideas
What are you guys using for balast.I need to think of something that is upto 300 lbs and in incruments of 50
I have a really strong napsack I was thinking of fastening it to the brackets where the rear seats go it and put sand bags in it
any other ideas?
What are you guys using for balast.I need to think of something that is upto 300 lbs and in incruments of 50
I have a really strong napsack I was thinking of fastening it to the brackets where the rear seats go it and put sand bags in it
any other ideas?
Last edited by Dave J; 07-14-2008 at 12:58 AM.
#2
6 & 8 Second Club
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Weight set. Buy a cheap bar, cut the end off & weld in. Put your plates in & screw in holder.
Or a plain steel rod, weld in & use the bolt type holder. If I'm not making sense, run to sporting goods store.
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Weight set. Buy a cheap bar, cut the end off & weld in. Put your plates in & screw in holder.
Or a plain steel rod, weld in & use the bolt type holder. If I'm not making sense, run to sporting goods store.
.
#3
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thats a good idea.as long as with 300 lbs of weight I dont bend up the floor board when I launch.I know its only a 10 second car but last weekend at the track my glovebox lid came off and flew right into the trunk with the battery so I guess a 1.45 60ft is still a bit of g-force
#4
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Wouldnt it be easier to change your shift points or tune then add 300lbs? I can go from 9.0 to 10.0 on just a just a tune and shift points. If you get in trouble and hit something I sure as hell wouldnt want 300lbs inside the car with me welded or bolted to a sheetmetal floor. Make sure and check you rules also, lot of classes are 100lbs ballast max.
#5
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last time I left in second gear and and shifted at 6000 instead of 7000 and still was 1 tenth too fast.I cant lift in this class basically if you run a 10.91 and worse than a .050 reaction time you are toast.
no max on balast in this class and no throttle stops of any kind are permitted
no max on balast in this class and no throttle stops of any kind are permitted
#7
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Forgot to mention, weight, timing, launch rpm will change your reaction time.
Use only for a permanent change. If you plan to change from pass to pass, remember that.
Use the weight to get close, then short shift to get exact ET, if possible. Several buddies use shift points.
You really don't want to change anything that effects the 1st 40-50' Do not use big weight on stock sheet metal,
as mentioned, mine is mounted to frame in trunk.
.
Forgot to mention, weight, timing, launch rpm will change your reaction time.
Use only for a permanent change. If you plan to change from pass to pass, remember that.
Use the weight to get close, then short shift to get exact ET, if possible. Several buddies use shift points.
You really don't want to change anything that effects the 1st 40-50' Do not use big weight on stock sheet metal,
as mentioned, mine is mounted to frame in trunk.
.
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#8
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I Use a 3x4 piece or box tube capped on one end and melt lead shot with a torch...its pretty easy you can drill through it to mount it or leave it in a steel tube to weld it in... I really like to use Tungsten blocks, 3x4x6 weighs 44 pounds but its 40 bucks a pound ritenow...
#11
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It's $24 for a lead puck. 3" X 6" X 1". As I said, lead is insane. We are on the same page. Tungsten is for my TIG.
I would never use it as balast, as you said, it's whatever comes after insane
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It's $24 for a lead puck. 3" X 6" X 1". As I said, lead is insane. We are on the same page. Tungsten is for my TIG.
I would never use it as balast, as you said, it's whatever comes after insane
.