60 ft help over all et help dial in
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 320
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From: ohio
60 ft help over all et help dial in stock lt1, qa1s all 4 corners. Lca TA adjustable . 255 55 16 MT street. ride height at 26 in the front 28 in the back stock coils back.Car weighs in at about 3358 with driver.3.23 rear gear A 4. Stock converter. Heres my 60 ft times.
1.852
1.843
1.866
1.869
1.827
1.897
1.895
1.875
1.892
1.863
1.863
1.858
1.870
Fronts loose rears 3. Do i need some weight in the back end of this car?
Pinion angel is set to -3. I only have 3 runs on the ADJ TA. My 60s are killing any dial in numbers i run. My MPH is staying solid. Didn't really have these problems till it got nasty hot out. I got all the weather toys which have really help me Zero in on things. Im just at a loss on the 1st 60 ft of the track here lately. I know it can be the stageing and such but that one thing we had down pretty well and hitting the stageing lights is on track. Whats tuff is i got almost 99.8% carb guys we run with and alot of feed back i get its the Fuel inj car. Going to go over the car in the morning but right now im at wits ends. Thanks everyone
1.852
1.843
1.866
1.869
1.827
1.897
1.895
1.875
1.892
1.863
1.863
1.858
1.870
Fronts loose rears 3. Do i need some weight in the back end of this car?
Pinion angel is set to -3. I only have 3 runs on the ADJ TA. My 60s are killing any dial in numbers i run. My MPH is staying solid. Didn't really have these problems till it got nasty hot out. I got all the weather toys which have really help me Zero in on things. Im just at a loss on the 1st 60 ft of the track here lately. I know it can be the stageing and such but that one thing we had down pretty well and hitting the stageing lights is on track. Whats tuff is i got almost 99.8% carb guys we run with and alot of feed back i get its the Fuel inj car. Going to go over the car in the morning but right now im at wits ends. Thanks everyone
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 320
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From: ohio
Pretty much in the 1.905s alot and 1.870s and running solid numbers in the 1/4 run after run. Now the last few weeks the 60s are just all over the place.Even with the new torque arm.Thats whats got me puzzeled .i kinda figured that would calm the irratic 60s down some. Im missing something . I just dont know where to look this time
You can remove the rear spring rubbers, this will lower the back of the car about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to see if that helps. I'd get that pinion angle back closer to zero, with your power level there is no need to put the pinion at that angle, you aren't makeing enough power to need any of that and it's just creating a driveline bind that is burting the car.
How are you stalling the car up, and what are the tranny temp's like? Reason I ask, is the temp of the tranny fluid make the converter a little different, and can screw with you a little bit too. Another thing is if you are flashing the converter off idle, one thing that it can be is that if you don't just have the throtle cracked a tiny bit, when you stab it open the air can stall in the intake and make it act a little different, what is your launch techniqe?
How many runs on the tires, any chance that they're about shot?
One thing I have learned, is that the radial can be faster, but if you are looking for consistancey, run a strait slick. A car like yours with the power it's making, a 28x9x15 et drag at about15PSI with tubes in them would I guarintee be a ton more consistant.
Honestly I'd try to pick up a set of convo pro's, that little tire will fit on the 15x8 with no problems and no cutting/banging or grinding required, reduced mass will probably drop a tenth or 2 off the car as well. But that little slick for what you are doing would probably get you the consistancey you are looking for.
Burnout lenth, tranny/motor tempature, track prep (not as much though at your power level) all play a big role.
How are you stalling the car up, and what are the tranny temp's like? Reason I ask, is the temp of the tranny fluid make the converter a little different, and can screw with you a little bit too. Another thing is if you are flashing the converter off idle, one thing that it can be is that if you don't just have the throtle cracked a tiny bit, when you stab it open the air can stall in the intake and make it act a little different, what is your launch techniqe?
How many runs on the tires, any chance that they're about shot?
One thing I have learned, is that the radial can be faster, but if you are looking for consistancey, run a strait slick. A car like yours with the power it's making, a 28x9x15 et drag at about15PSI with tubes in them would I guarintee be a ton more consistant.
Honestly I'd try to pick up a set of convo pro's, that little tire will fit on the 15x8 with no problems and no cutting/banging or grinding required, reduced mass will probably drop a tenth or 2 off the car as well. But that little slick for what you are doing would probably get you the consistancey you are looking for.
Burnout lenth, tranny/motor tempature, track prep (not as much though at your power level) all play a big role.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: ohio
You can remove the rear spring rubbers, this will lower the back of the car about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to see if that helps. I'd get that pinion angle back closer to zero, with your power level there is no need to put the pinion at that angle, you aren't makeing enough power to need any of that and it's just creating a driveline bind that is burting the car.
How are you stalling the car up, and what are the tranny temp's like? Reason I ask, is the temp of the tranny fluid make the converter a little different, and can screw with you a little bit too. Another thing is if you are flashing the converter off idle, one thing that it can be is that if you don't just have the throtle cracked a tiny bit, when you stab it open the air can stall in the intake and make it act a little different, what is your launch techniqe?
How many runs on the tires, any chance that they're about shot?
One thing I have learned, is that the radial can be faster, but if you are looking for consistancey, run a strait slick. A car like yours with the power it's making, a 28x9x15 et drag at about15PSI with tubes in them would I guarintee be a ton more consistant.
Honestly I'd try to pick up a set of convo pro's, that little tire will fit on the 15x8 with no problems and no cutting/banging or grinding required, reduced mass will probably drop a tenth or 2 off the car as well. But that little slick for what you are doing would probably get you the consistancey you are looking for.
Burnout lenth, tranny/motor tempature, track prep (not as much though at your power level) all play a big role.
How are you stalling the car up, and what are the tranny temp's like? Reason I ask, is the temp of the tranny fluid make the converter a little different, and can screw with you a little bit too. Another thing is if you are flashing the converter off idle, one thing that it can be is that if you don't just have the throtle cracked a tiny bit, when you stab it open the air can stall in the intake and make it act a little different, what is your launch techniqe?
How many runs on the tires, any chance that they're about shot?
One thing I have learned, is that the radial can be faster, but if you are looking for consistancey, run a strait slick. A car like yours with the power it's making, a 28x9x15 et drag at about15PSI with tubes in them would I guarintee be a ton more consistant.
Honestly I'd try to pick up a set of convo pro's, that little tire will fit on the 15x8 with no problems and no cutting/banging or grinding required, reduced mass will probably drop a tenth or 2 off the car as well. But that little slick for what you are doing would probably get you the consistancey you are looking for.
Burnout lenth, tranny/motor tempature, track prep (not as much though at your power level) all play a big role.
Last edited by DADDY&GIRL93TA; Jul 20, 2008 at 12:23 PM.
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Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 320
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From: ohio
Hopeing we can get a test and tune night in this week and work on those things and test some more shock settings. Getting close to the DIV 3 finals and were 4Th in points at the track.We got alot of polishing to do on our routine here.The finals is some tuff raceing for sure.
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Verdad Gallardo With a stock car I would try stiffening the rear shocks up, I had better luck when running n/a off the footbrake with the rears at 5/6 on the rear and the fronts on 3 then I did with the rears stiffer and any other settings on the fronts.
Honestly, with a stock car and the power it makes (LT1 on top of it) I would put the rears at 8/9 and put the fronts at 2 and see what that gets you. It should help the car react quicker with the rear suspension stiffer, you don't want the back dropping at all if you can avoid it, you just want the car to move foreward not squat and then move foreward.
Your power level shouldn't be able to overpower those tires even if they are about shot, you should be able to do almost no burnout and still hook the car I'd think.
If you can get to a rental, try jacking the rear shocks up stiff, stagger them one click stiffer on the right rear and leave teh fronts at 3 or 2, and see if the car leaves any better.
Honestly, with a stock car and the power it makes (LT1 on top of it) I would put the rears at 8/9 and put the fronts at 2 and see what that gets you. It should help the car react quicker with the rear suspension stiffer, you don't want the back dropping at all if you can avoid it, you just want the car to move foreward not squat and then move foreward.
Your power level shouldn't be able to overpower those tires even if they are about shot, you should be able to do almost no burnout and still hook the car I'd think.
If you can get to a rental, try jacking the rear shocks up stiff, stagger them one click stiffer on the right rear and leave teh fronts at 3 or 2, and see if the car leaves any better.
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
as mentioned, engine block and transmission temps due to downtime between rounds/runs varying will all cause 60 foot changes.
For example:
my formula last night went 2.048 and 2.046 on the time runs 60 foots with about an hour between passes. 2nd to 3rd round turnaround time was 35 minutes, 60 foot went from 2.041 to 2.027. Trans temps makes a big difference, and adding one in my Nova 3 years back helped out a bunch in dialing for later rounds. I'll likely be adding one to the Formula sometime as well.
Derek
For example:
my formula last night went 2.048 and 2.046 on the time runs 60 foots with about an hour between passes. 2nd to 3rd round turnaround time was 35 minutes, 60 foot went from 2.041 to 2.027. Trans temps makes a big difference, and adding one in my Nova 3 years back helped out a bunch in dialing for later rounds. I'll likely be adding one to the Formula sometime as well.
Derek
I was thinking about this a little more.
With a stock car, if you are going to bracket race it, you may want to try this too. There's a guy that goes to our local track with a jeep and races it on bracket night every week. I know, a jeep, and it is slow trust me. But, he does very well witih the bracket racing.
He gets to the track, and never shuts it off. It's hot when he gets there, and he leaves it running. That way it's already heat soaked and it won't get any slower as the night goes on, if anything it picks up as the air cools off at night.
Kinda unorthodox I know, but he's got more trohpies from street night brackets then anyone else I know of, so that being said it might be worth a try. Once the car is hot, it won't slow down anymore, maybe you need to just leave it hot, seems alot easier then trying to keep it cool.
With a stock car, if you are going to bracket race it, you may want to try this too. There's a guy that goes to our local track with a jeep and races it on bracket night every week. I know, a jeep, and it is slow trust me. But, he does very well witih the bracket racing.
He gets to the track, and never shuts it off. It's hot when he gets there, and he leaves it running. That way it's already heat soaked and it won't get any slower as the night goes on, if anything it picks up as the air cools off at night.
Kinda unorthodox I know, but he's got more trohpies from street night brackets then anyone else I know of, so that being said it might be worth a try. Once the car is hot, it won't slow down anymore, maybe you need to just leave it hot, seems alot easier then trying to keep it cool.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 320
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From: ohio
Very good point there. Well i hope we can get a test and tune in this week up at Muncie on wed. Think i should waited till fall till i started fooling with the suspension. But i had a strut mount fail on me and didn't know it till i was unloading the car one nite and the shock was hung up on the spring. Well that lead back to makeing more adjustments.Then i thought what the heck might as well get a adjustable torque arm with the drive shaft hoop oh well thats how it goes lol
No you're on teh right track. You want as much flex out of the suspension as you can get. Getting the tq arm mount off the tranny tailshaft will help stop the chassis from absorbing some of the power too, along with a set of poly motor mounts.
Little things like that, getting flex out of suspsneion parts and the like will help with consistancey alot when all put together.
If you can get to a rental, try stiffening the back up to at least 10 on the shocks, if the car hooks like that which at your power level it should, the car should react alot quicker which will help with the tree too, because there's less wasted energy squatting the suspension.
What you can get away with as far as suspension stuff with a stock powered car is alot different then what guys with 9 second cars can do
Little things like that, getting flex out of suspsneion parts and the like will help with consistancey alot when all put together.
If you can get to a rental, try stiffening the back up to at least 10 on the shocks, if the car hooks like that which at your power level it should, the car should react alot quicker which will help with the tree too, because there's less wasted energy squatting the suspension.
What you can get away with as far as suspension stuff with a stock powered car is alot different then what guys with 9 second cars can do
Very good point there. Well i hope we can get a test and tune in this week up at Muncie on wed. Think i should waited till fall till i started fooling with the suspension. But i had a strut mount fail on me and didn't know it till i was unloading the car one nite and the shock was hung up on the spring. Well that lead back to makeing more adjustments.Then i thought what the heck might as well get a adjustable torque arm with the drive shaft hoop oh well thats how it goes lol
Anyway, my $.02 would be not stalling it up at all and keeping the burnout small. Those tires with stock power shouldnt take much for it to hook. Maybe you are getting different amount of heat in them causing the car to bog a little.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: ohio
If you race at Muncie have you ever ran and purple or white s10? I saw a picture of it a while back pulling the shoots on a 17second pass, I thought it was pretty funny. If you run points there you should be familar with it.
Anyway, my $.02 would be not stalling it up at all and keeping the burnout small. Those tires with stock power shouldnt take much for it to hook. Maybe you are getting different amount of heat in them causing the car to bog a little.
Anyway, my $.02 would be not stalling it up at all and keeping the burnout small. Those tires with stock power shouldnt take much for it to hook. Maybe you are getting different amount of heat in them causing the car to bog a little.
