roll bar question
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Depends, but they couldn't ship it all together b/c I doubt you could get it in the car that way. I'm guessing main hoop and crossbar are one piece (but could be wrong here, then the 2 door bars and 2 back bars.
Derek
Derek
Correct...bought mine used, but it comes apart in those basic 5 pieces.
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There's no welding required. The only part that would have to be welded, for a picky track, would be the rear bars to the main hoop. Everything on this kit is complete bolt in.
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You guys are crazzy putting those bolt in bars in your cars.If you roll over at 100+ that thing is going to wrap around you like a giant octapus
pay the money and get it done right this is your life we are talking about
pay the money and get it done right this is your life we are talking about
There is little, if any, difference in strength between the bolted joints in the tubing and having a continuous tube. The tubes are attached to the main hoop by sliding them over a smaller diameter tube which is welded to the hoop. A large bolt is then placed through to keep it from coming apart. You would bend the rest of the tubing before you would bend the joint, which is basically double-walled. If there was any doubt in my mind that it was unsafe, it would have never been placed in the car.
I agree, there's alot of thought put into the way the kit mounts in the car. The only real disadvantage to weld-in is the weight of the bolts.... and ditto on having to weld the rear bars to the main hoop for a picky track.
It's a good kit!
It's a good kit!
If I remember correctly, everything bolts together. The main hoop w/ the crossbar welded in the middle of it is one piece with 2 small tubes coming off of the top of the hoop that the rear 2 bars slide over and bolt to. Mine has a fixed pass. door bar currently, and a swing-out on the driver side. I plan on installing a swing-out on the pass side as well eventually (I think this can be done). Just make sure when you install it that you get it all together (even the swingout(s) where they're going to go) and start drilling. We drilled the holes right thru the mounting pads and didn't take the bar back out or apart to drill. If you have any other Qs or need pics I can post some later tonight/tomorrow.
there is about one inch of bar that comes off the hoop to connect to the rear bars. the rear bar slides over about 1/2 of that one inch and then bolted. ill get pics in a minute. just pm me these questions on sacfbodyz, i have done all of this
I heard this is true based on strength.(thats what matters to us anyway) Since c/m is stronger then mild steel and lighter. So they assume the amount of c/m needed to be as strong as ms is about 50% of the weight of ms.
But if you are using a similiar size of tubing and thickness i think the weight savings is only about 25%. But now you have a piece that is 25% lighter but stronger then mild steel.
Some pieces are made with thinner pieces of c/m so more weight can be saved.
Chris