Looking for traction, can I get some help
Looking for traction, can I get some help '99 Z28 3600 ss yank stall, with Bolt-ons, Has Spohn 1" non adjustable rear sway bar, UMI; tunnel mount torque arm (pin. angle -1.5), adj. LCAs, LCA relo brackets, adj pan hard, SFCs, !front sway bar. Tires are 315/35/17 BFG DRs 22lbs pressure, and !traction.
Just did the hose mod to the rear springs hoping to level the car out a bit, did nothing for traction. Unless I come off the line super easy I have no traction until the very top of first then loose it again on the 1>2 shift.
Where should I go next looking for this traction stuff? None of the sponsors seem to sell this stuff by the gallon. What do you all suggest I try, shocks?, 15" wheels?, I sure as hell dont know.
Just did the hose mod to the rear springs hoping to level the car out a bit, did nothing for traction. Unless I come off the line super easy I have no traction until the very top of first then loose it again on the 1>2 shift.
Where should I go next looking for this traction stuff? None of the sponsors seem to sell this stuff by the gallon. What do you all suggest I try, shocks?, 15" wheels?, I sure as hell dont know.
'99 Z28 3600 ss yank stall, with Bolt-ons, Has Spohn 1" non adjustable rear sway bar, UMI; tunnel mount torque arm (pin. angle -1.5), adj. LCAs, LCA relo brackets, adj pan hard, SFCs, !front sway bar. Tires are 315/35/17 BFG DRs 22lbs pressure, and !traction.
Just did the hose mod to the rear springs hoping to level the car out a bit, did nothing for traction. Unless I come off the line super easy I have no traction until the very top of first then loose it again on the 1>2 shift.
Where should I go next looking for this traction stuff? None of the sponsors seem to sell this stuff by the gallon. What do you all suggest I try, shocks?, 15" wheels?, I sure as hell dont know.
Just did the hose mod to the rear springs hoping to level the car out a bit, did nothing for traction. Unless I come off the line super easy I have no traction until the very top of first then loose it again on the 1>2 shift.
Where should I go next looking for this traction stuff? None of the sponsors seem to sell this stuff by the gallon. What do you all suggest I try, shocks?, 15" wheels?, I sure as hell dont know.
Now have you played with tire pressure with the BFGs, most DRs don't like more then 18 psi, i know my MTs didn't, also put the LCAs in the lowest hole on the bracket, this will plant the tires harder & should keep them there, i would do those 2 things 1st. & see how it does, if it really doesn't cure it, then go the other route.
LCAs are in the lowest hole, I can drop the pressure more and see what that does. Giving those QA1 r-series front shocks a good looking at, Do I have to change the front springs with these and does anyone think this is the direction I need to go?
Last edited by thebulgd; Jul 27, 2008 at 02:55 AM.
I would try lowering air pressure to 17-18 lbs and also filling your gas tank all the way up.Sounds crazy but,adding the weight sometimes helps,if not get a real pair of slicks for the track.
I was able to cut a 1.64 60' with those tires and that converter, full weight. Same susp. as you, right on down to the relocation brackets and heater hose ..lol. I ran that tire with the pressure @ 18 psi. That tire doesn't like too much of a burnout. 4 sec. max. Basically, by the time you see smoke .. roll out. Too much made them greasy. Flashed it off idle-1200.
Exact same way I launch. I'll drop that pressure to 18# and hold of on changing anything for now.
As for video of leave what would be the best angle? Though I cannot guarantee I can even get video done.
Tank is usually pretty full when I race, I fill p before I hed out to the "track". I was considering doing 373 gears and a 28" tire, for sidewall flex, but am not sure if that will hurt at the tall end of the 1/4 mile.
Tank is usually pretty full when I race, I fill p before I hed out to the "track". I was considering doing 373 gears and a 28" tire, for sidewall flex, but am not sure if that will hurt at the tall end of the 1/4 mile.
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Is your front sway bar still hooked up, if so, take it out, this will help transfer weight., IMO, i think your biggest issue is the tire pressure at 22 lbs., i helped a guy drop .8 off his ET, he had like 26-27 in his MTs & was wondering why it wouldn't hook lol, no one was of any help for him, so i walked over & dropped the pressure to 18 (they looked at me like i had 5 heads), then told him to see how it does, his first run was a wash (he barely did a burnout), next pass his burnout was much better, well long story short, he went from running 13.6s to 12.8s in 3 passes., lower the tire pressure first, no john force burnouts, just a good 5 sec. roll out & 5K or so, then pull to the line, just remember tire pressure increases when heated up, more so in a radial then a bias, so your 22 lbs. may have been 25-26 at the line.
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Definatly lower the air pressure on those bfgs. I usually run mine around 17 psi but when it gets hot out, track tempts 115+ they wont hook. High 1.7 to 1.8 60'. I got pissed since I was bracket racing and went down to 12-13 for the hell of it and went back to hooking to mid 1.60s. I have no front sway bar and lakewood lca.
Just pulled the trigger on some QA1 F series rear shocks. Not really sure of the difference between those and the stocker star ALs but they cost more so must be better some how. Figured these cant hurt considering the amount of squat my car has and the fact that the stock ones currently on the car are probably 9-10 years old. Guess I'll be getting some R series fronts and springs soon.
ok, got the QA1s installed, lowered tire pressure to 18#, car still spins badly. rears are set at 7pass rear, 6 drivers rear. Car has alot of squat still. I tried one all out launch and burned serios rubber half way through third, was a fun ride I will admit. Anyways, WTH? any other suggestions?
What kind of condition is the track in? Is the T/T or a race night? Whats the fastest cars running when your there? And what was the weather like on race day? Rain anytime soon?
Lots of question, but these all could lead to less than optimal traction besides your car and its setup...
Lots of question, but these all could lead to less than optimal traction besides your car and its setup...
X2 it would help to see an angle from the rear looking down the side so you can see what the body does on the launch, i.e. roll right, front lift, rear squat, etc. Also, with my LCA on the lowest hole it put my IC behind the driver causing the rear to lift when launching, I spun no matter what the tire psi above 3000rpm. After reconfiguring the TA and LCA's it loves 5600 out of the hole, to bad I don't make enough power N/A to do anything cool!
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Just pulled the trigger on some QA1 F series rear shocks. Not really sure of the difference between those and the stocker star ALs but they cost more so must be better some how. Figured these cant hurt considering the amount of squat my car has and the fact that the stock ones currently on the car are probably 9-10 years old. Guess I'll be getting some R series fronts and springs soon.
What kind of condition is the track in? Is the T/T or a race night? Whats the fastest cars running when your there? And what was the weather like on race day? Rain anytime soon?
Lots of question, but these all could lead to less than optimal traction besides your car and its setup...
Lots of question, but these all could lead to less than optimal traction besides your car and its setup...
I think its funny all the guys around here go to the street legal Friday nights and the dew has set in and they are spinning bad and cant figure out why
To the OP, you could try this:
When I had my Jegster tunnel mount on the car, I had to launch it different. If I left off-idle, the car would absolutely ROAST the tires. However, if I stalled it up somewhere in the 2500-3000 range (on a 4000 stall), and kinda "hitched" it outta the hole, it would launch to 1.6x's on DR's, and consistent 1.7x's on street tires.
What I describe as a "hitch" goes like this. Stall the car up to about 300 rpm below where it'll break the tires loose. You have to do this right before you launch, otherwise you'll balloon the converter. When the light drops, you let off the brake, then the front end will drop slightly, then pick back up. When it starts to pick back up, do a "fast" roll into the throttle, just enough not to roast the tires. All this happens in less than a second, and you have to get the timing right, but that's how I launched for years, with nothing but traction.
Here's some videos of my car launching, so maybe you can see what I'm talking about:
On DR's
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...908_153519.htm
On street tires
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meTnn4zr1Ck
I do have a different TA setup now, so I launch at about 1100 rpm, then flash the converter.
Best thing I could tell you to do though is to practice, and learn how your car likes to be launched.
When I had my Jegster tunnel mount on the car, I had to launch it different. If I left off-idle, the car would absolutely ROAST the tires. However, if I stalled it up somewhere in the 2500-3000 range (on a 4000 stall), and kinda "hitched" it outta the hole, it would launch to 1.6x's on DR's, and consistent 1.7x's on street tires.
What I describe as a "hitch" goes like this. Stall the car up to about 300 rpm below where it'll break the tires loose. You have to do this right before you launch, otherwise you'll balloon the converter. When the light drops, you let off the brake, then the front end will drop slightly, then pick back up. When it starts to pick back up, do a "fast" roll into the throttle, just enough not to roast the tires. All this happens in less than a second, and you have to get the timing right, but that's how I launched for years, with nothing but traction.
Here's some videos of my car launching, so maybe you can see what I'm talking about:
On DR's
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...908_153519.htm
On street tires
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meTnn4zr1Ck
I do have a different TA setup now, so I launch at about 1100 rpm, then flash the converter.
Best thing I could tell you to do though is to practice, and learn how your car likes to be launched.
To the OP, you could try this:
When I had my Jegster tunnel mount on the car, I had to launch it different. If I left off-idle, the car would absolutely ROAST the tires. However, if I stalled it up somewhere in the 2500-3000 range (on a 4000 stall), and kinda "hitched" it outta the hole, it would launch to 1.6x's on DR's, and consistent 1.7x's on street tires.
What I describe as a "hitch" goes like this. Stall the car up to about 300 rpm below where it'll break the tires loose. You have to do this right before you launch, otherwise you'll balloon the converter. When the light drops, you let off the brake, then the front end will drop slightly, then pick back up. When it starts to pick back up, do a "fast" roll into the throttle, just enough not to roast the tires. All this happens in less than a second, and you have to get the timing right, but that's how I launched for years, with nothing but traction.
Here's some videos of my car launching, so maybe you can see what I'm talking about:
On DR's
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...908_153519.htm
On street tires
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meTnn4zr1Ck
I do have a different TA setup now, so I launch at about 1100 rpm, then flash the converter.
Best thing I could tell you to do though is to practice, and learn how your car likes to be launched.
When I had my Jegster tunnel mount on the car, I had to launch it different. If I left off-idle, the car would absolutely ROAST the tires. However, if I stalled it up somewhere in the 2500-3000 range (on a 4000 stall), and kinda "hitched" it outta the hole, it would launch to 1.6x's on DR's, and consistent 1.7x's on street tires.
What I describe as a "hitch" goes like this. Stall the car up to about 300 rpm below where it'll break the tires loose. You have to do this right before you launch, otherwise you'll balloon the converter. When the light drops, you let off the brake, then the front end will drop slightly, then pick back up. When it starts to pick back up, do a "fast" roll into the throttle, just enough not to roast the tires. All this happens in less than a second, and you have to get the timing right, but that's how I launched for years, with nothing but traction.
Here's some videos of my car launching, so maybe you can see what I'm talking about:
On DR's
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...908_153519.htm
On street tires
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meTnn4zr1Ck
I do have a different TA setup now, so I launch at about 1100 rpm, then flash the converter.
Best thing I could tell you to do though is to practice, and learn how your car likes to be launched.
Hey, those videos are 2 different cars, a vette & a camaro, plus the 1st. one you can't even see the tires at the launch, just half the car lol. You really need to be UP CLOSE & personal when doing a video of a launch, therefor you can see exactly what the tires/suspention are doing.
I can't control how other people film my car. I try to get them to do what I want, but it never happens that way.
