60 ft KILLING ME. M6 guys help please
#41
Very true...every car is different. Mine still wasnt grabbing like it can, but a hell of a lot better than before all of the great advise. I agree that the rearend ratio needs to be changed to ether 4.30 or 4.56. Plus Coles county dragway has a BIG reputation for **** preps, and not hooking.
#43
Any one have any imput on me keeping the M6, or converting to a TH400?
#44
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well what are your main goals, and how much do you drive the car, 10's are doable by damn near anyone who can shift the gears if you hook and got the power. 9's take a real good driver and one hell of a driver to see 8's........
#45
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A stick car is a bitch to firgure out the correct setup for it to leave right. Atleast it is for me. My car is nowhere near the 60' it should cut, but it is just so damn fun, and it really gets a lot of attention. Not much is cooler to me than a car on a two step at 7k.
Spend the time to figure out your current setup, it's a pain I know, but I think it would be worth it.
Spend the time to figure out your current setup, it's a pain I know, but I think it would be worth it.
#46
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The thing with the TH400 is this, around town you can drive it no problem, highway use it's obnoxious.
Your gas mileage, you can not even look at anymore because it will hurt, because of the converter. If you want the car to run fast, you need a loose racy converter, and that's where the mileage goes to ****. (I have a real good n/a one sitting here for sale if someone wants to go fast)
BUT, if you want the car to run at the track, you want to be able to hammer it and not have stuff break, leave off a transbrake which IMO is just like dumping a clutch at 5000+ rpm, the Th400 is the way to go. You will not, I repeat, will NOT break a well built th400 tranny at your power level, you will kill the motor WAY before the tranny goes. I've got over 125 passes on my th400, 90 of which were n/a mid 10 second runs, rest single digit passes on the jug and the tranny has had the fluid changed a few times, that's it.
If I still had the M6 in the car, I guarintee I would have broken/worn out:
5 or more clutches by now
broken the tranny at least 3 times
broken at least 1 driveshaft
blew the rear apart at least 3 times
had to put a mcloud bellhousing on, in fear of losing my feet when a clutch explodes, not if one explodes, WHEN, because it will eventually happen, and after seeing it happen once, that was all it took for me to want nothing to do with that.
The th400 swap isn't a difficult swap, when/if you do it please get a CSR tranny shield, i't carbon fiber, weigh's 4 lbs, but if the tranny were to explode (seen it happen once too) it will save your car and you.
Your gas mileage, you can not even look at anymore because it will hurt, because of the converter. If you want the car to run fast, you need a loose racy converter, and that's where the mileage goes to ****. (I have a real good n/a one sitting here for sale if someone wants to go fast)
BUT, if you want the car to run at the track, you want to be able to hammer it and not have stuff break, leave off a transbrake which IMO is just like dumping a clutch at 5000+ rpm, the Th400 is the way to go. You will not, I repeat, will NOT break a well built th400 tranny at your power level, you will kill the motor WAY before the tranny goes. I've got over 125 passes on my th400, 90 of which were n/a mid 10 second runs, rest single digit passes on the jug and the tranny has had the fluid changed a few times, that's it.
If I still had the M6 in the car, I guarintee I would have broken/worn out:
5 or more clutches by now
broken the tranny at least 3 times
broken at least 1 driveshaft
blew the rear apart at least 3 times
had to put a mcloud bellhousing on, in fear of losing my feet when a clutch explodes, not if one explodes, WHEN, because it will eventually happen, and after seeing it happen once, that was all it took for me to want nothing to do with that.
The th400 swap isn't a difficult swap, when/if you do it please get a CSR tranny shield, i't carbon fiber, weigh's 4 lbs, but if the tranny were to explode (seen it happen once too) it will save your car and you.
#47
Good info. My car is NOT a daily driver, and will only see the highway a handfull of times in a year. So the automatic will probably happen, right know im looking up info on the swap, and parts needed..etc. Who do you guys recommend building a LS1 type TH400 transmissions.
#48
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A stick car is a bitch to firgure out the correct setup for it to leave right. Atleast it is for me. My car is nowhere near the 60' it should cut, but it is just so damn fun, and it really gets a lot of attention. Not much is cooler to me than a car on a two step at 7k.
Spend the time to figure out your current setup, it's a pain I know, but I think it would be worth it.
Spend the time to figure out your current setup, it's a pain I know, but I think it would be worth it.
#50
Race your car!
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Good info. My car is NOT a daily driver, and will only see the highway a handfull of times in a year. So the automatic will probably happen, right know im looking up info on the swap, and parts needed..etc. Who do you guys recommend building a LS1 type TH400 transmissions.
Get a good driveshaft, a BIG alum one or a steel one right away. BMR sells a crossmember with tq arm relocation on it, makes the swap easy and you gain someinstant center adjustment. Hughes makes a good inexpensive SFI flywheel, get the CSR carbon fiber tranny shield, and get a deep pan for it right off. A a4 console can be modified to fit a hurst quarterstick and look nice.
I don't care what anyone says, you leave the stick in there, you will be breaking tranny's rear's, driveshafts, and clutches like mad.
Sell the whole t56 setup for 2000 bucks like I did, and then you'll only need about 1000 bucks to buy all GOOD parts to do the swap and will be able to run the car for a long time without breaking it.
I always say:
Want to work on your race car, leave the stick in it.
Want to race your race car, put an automatic in it.
#55
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Vid of before the 2 step http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka-uEpsDWHg
Please don't hate on the slow shifting, that was one of the first passes on the nitrous and I was so supprised I didn't power shift it.
sorry for the hijack
Last edited by SPEEDYws6; 08-22-2008 at 06:07 PM.
#56
There's nothing special about it, just overdo it a little, manual valve body, transbrake a must. Get the biggest cooler you can, run -6 lines so you never have to worry about them blowing out on you, definately put a catch can on because none of the aftermarket dip sticks read right so you have to fill the tranny till it overflows a little when it's hot, then you knwo it's full, a can then figure out where the flid needs to be on teh dipstick, but initially it will make a mess.
Get a good driveshaft, a BIG alum one or a steel one right away. BMR sells a crossmember with tq arm relocation on it, makes the swap easy and you gain someinstant center adjustment. Hughes makes a good inexpensive SFI flywheel, get the CSR carbon fiber tranny shield, and get a deep pan for it right off. A a4 console can be modified to fit a hurst quarterstick and look nice.
I don't care what anyone says, you leave the stick in there, you will be breaking tranny's rear's, driveshafts, and clutches like mad.
Sell the whole t56 setup for 2000 bucks like I did, and then you'll only need about 1000 bucks to buy all GOOD parts to do the swap and will be able to run the car for a long time without breaking it.
I always say:
Want to work on your race car, leave the stick in it.
Want to race your race car, put an automatic in it.
Get a good driveshaft, a BIG alum one or a steel one right away. BMR sells a crossmember with tq arm relocation on it, makes the swap easy and you gain someinstant center adjustment. Hughes makes a good inexpensive SFI flywheel, get the CSR carbon fiber tranny shield, and get a deep pan for it right off. A a4 console can be modified to fit a hurst quarterstick and look nice.
I don't care what anyone says, you leave the stick in there, you will be breaking tranny's rear's, driveshafts, and clutches like mad.
Sell the whole t56 setup for 2000 bucks like I did, and then you'll only need about 1000 bucks to buy all GOOD parts to do the swap and will be able to run the car for a long time without breaking it.
I always say:
Want to work on your race car, leave the stick in it.
Want to race your race car, put an automatic in it.
Dont worry about the hyjack man. Im here for the same reason you are to learn
#57
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Hughes build a good tranny, if you want to spend the big bucks, which at your level I don't think is needed you can call rossler.
I've had a hughes th400 in my car for 3 years now, about 150 passes on it and there's nothign other then a converter change and fluid changes that have been done.
I do need a bigger cooler and a deep pan, that's not the tranny's falut though that's my own for not putting them on in the first place.
I've had a hughes th400 in my car for 3 years now, about 150 passes on it and there's nothign other then a converter change and fluid changes that have been done.
I do need a bigger cooler and a deep pan, that's not the tranny's falut though that's my own for not putting them on in the first place.
#58
Update....
I went to the track a few weeks ago and lowered the pressure to 11 PSI with the MT ET streets, set the rear on 5, front on 0, did a good 10 second burnout, and launched bouncing off the rev limiter(6400), dumped it, and She pulled the fronts a little. Grabbed hard as hell for the first time. My best was a 1.63. My best guess to the problem was tire pressure, and low RPM launchs. Just like you guys said. If I launch lower than 6 it wont grab fully.
I am making one more trip to the track this friday for SCC at US 41 in morroco. I will post up the quarter times.
This winter that M-6 is coming out ,and a 4L80E built by Transformance is going in!!!!
Thanks again guys, for all the help.
I am making one more trip to the track this friday for SCC at US 41 in morroco. I will post up the quarter times.
This winter that M-6 is coming out ,and a 4L80E built by Transformance is going in!!!!
Thanks again guys, for all the help.
#59
TECH Enthusiast
Man I don't see how these guys are getting away with so much gear on a 26" tire...... When I was running 315/35s(25.7") and spraying 150hp on 4.10s, I was sitting on the 6800rpm limiter at 123-124mph. I know the real 26x10"s are a little taller and grow some on the top end but I didn't think it would make THAT much difference....I mean I was sitting on the limiter the last 100-200', I only stayed in it all the way through it once because I was worried about popping it. I just got a 9" and went down to 3.70 gears, I know its gonna be a turd on motor but hopefully it will still run ok on the spray....Maybe 3.90s would have been a better choice. My car is 1.5" lower and I don't think I could get 28"s on there without rolling the fender lips etc.
I guess we'll see but I just can't imagine spraying on 4.30s and not running out of gear in 4th.....
I guess we'll see but I just can't imagine spraying on 4.30s and not running out of gear in 4th.....