Summertime boredom, how about some new wheels :)
08-31-2008, 11:27 AM
#41
I should have went with the 1.75s I think, the Aerospace rotors are thinner than stock and move the wheels in a little but not as much as the strange brakes do. The 2.25 BS ones sit about 1.5" further in per side than the bogarts did, would be fine if I was mini tubbed and the rears were in further but looks a little odd to me the way it is, thanks.
09-07-2008, 12:22 PM
#42
KP I have the 1.75s on mine with stock LS1 brakes and they stick out to far with the 5/8s spacer I have to run to clear the brakes. I am looking at after market brakes but do not want to give up the vented rotors 
They seem to live beter even on the track only cars.
Your stuff is looking good!
They seem to live beter even on the track only cars.Your stuff is looking good!
09-07-2008, 12:55 PM
#43
Lot depends on the rears too, if the rears are out further then the fronts sticking out a little doesnt look bad.
But when the fronts are tucked too much and the rears arent it looks kinda funny to me. I'm pretty sure the new rear/wheels will sit in another 1/2" than the bogarts so it may look OK. Waiting for the rear end housing to see..
But when the fronts are tucked too much and the rears arent it looks kinda funny to me. I'm pretty sure the new rear/wheels will sit in another 1/2" than the bogarts so it may look OK. Waiting for the rear end housing to see..
09-17-2008, 01:40 PM
#44
Thought I'd post up some pics now that its done. I ended up having to grind the rear calipers a little and use 1/4" spacers with these wheels, the spare set of wheels I have are the newer one piece and they clear fine. I also swapped the 2.25 backspace fronts for the 1.75 and it all turned out looked pretty good. I ended up with 3.25" off of each side and these are 4.5 BS wheels. They still sit about 3/8 of an inch further in than the old LS Bogarts I had even with a 1/4" spacer.
Turned out pretty good, wasnt really worth it overall though, lot of time and $$ just to look cooler lol.
Turned out pretty good, wasnt really worth it overall though, lot of time and $$ just to look cooler lol.
Last edited by kp; 12-12-2008 at 12:02 PM.
09-17-2008, 03:12 PM
#48
I bought the wheels already double beadlocked for 1150.00. Welds are like 1900 double beadlocked I think for comparison. I think most places charge 200-250 per lock to do your wheels, not sure what these cost to get done.
09-17-2008, 03:37 PM
#49
That's that beadlocks are not on the list LOL.
Roughly how much weight do you think narrowing up the rear got you? I'd guess the wheels are about a wash from what the bogarts are, maybe a lb or so eith teh beadlock, but I bet sidewall life, and tire life are better, probably hook harder too working teh sidewall more evenly.
Plus I like the idea of not needing to have someone swap the tires anymore, since with the beadlocks there's no need for a machine, and they're not gonna leak like screwed rims do
Roughly how much weight do you think narrowing up the rear got you? I'd guess the wheels are about a wash from what the bogarts are, maybe a lb or so eith teh beadlock, but I bet sidewall life, and tire life are better, probably hook harder too working teh sidewall more evenly.
Plus I like the idea of not needing to have someone swap the tires anymore, since with the beadlocks there's no need for a machine, and they're not gonna leak like screwed rims do
09-17-2008, 04:13 PM
#50
That's that beadlocks are not on the list LOL.
Roughly how much weight do you think narrowing up the rear got you? I'd guess the wheels are about a wash from what the bogarts are, maybe a lb or so eith teh beadlock, but I bet sidewall life, and tire life are better, probably hook harder too working teh sidewall more evenly.
Plus I like the idea of not needing to have someone swap the tires anymore, since with the beadlocks there's no need for a machine, and they're not gonna leak like screwed rims do
Roughly how much weight do you think narrowing up the rear got you? I'd guess the wheels are about a wash from what the bogarts are, maybe a lb or so eith teh beadlock, but I bet sidewall life, and tire life are better, probably hook harder too working teh sidewall more evenly.
Plus I like the idea of not needing to have someone swap the tires anymore, since with the beadlocks there's no need for a machine, and they're not gonna leak like screwed rims do
The new housing with the Moser relocation brackets was 11lbs lighter than my old one with UMI brackets (those LCA brackets are like 8lbs) so around 3lbs less on the housing itself for narrowing I would guess. The new axles I had the big lightening holes drilled instead of star flanged and they were 3lbs lighter each that the stock length axles with no lightening holes in the flanges I had.
The Bogart wheels bare were 10.5lbs, these are 20. But I am not using using tubes now so thats 4.5lbs a side, so the rear wheels/tires alone are around 5lbs a side heavier, subtract the 3lbs for the shorter axles with the lighteneing holes plus the front wheels are 2.5lbs lighter and that puts me .5 less than what I had for rotating, minus 11lbs static weight for the housing.
So yea its pretty much a wash weight wise
Kevin! You holding on the Bogarts or gonna sell to offset the cost?
09-18-2008, 04:59 AM
#55
They seem to hold air pretty well, I ran tubes with screws so leaking was never an issue.
The new housing with the Moser relocation brackets was 11lbs lighter than my old one with UMI brackets (those LCA brackets are like 8lbs) so around 3lbs less on the housing itself for narrowing I would guess. The new axles I had the big lightening holes drilled instead of star flanged and they were 3lbs lighter each that the stock length axles with no lightening holes in the flanges I had.
The Bogart wheels bare were 10.5lbs, these are 20. But I am not using using tubes now so thats 4.5lbs a side, so the rear wheels/tires alone are around 5lbs a side heavier, subtract the 3lbs for the shorter axles with the lighteneing holes plus the front wheels are 2.5lbs lighter and that puts me .5 less than what I had for rotating, minus 11lbs static weight for the housing.
So yea its pretty much a wash weight wise
The new housing with the Moser relocation brackets was 11lbs lighter than my old one with UMI brackets (those LCA brackets are like 8lbs) so around 3lbs less on the housing itself for narrowing I would guess. The new axles I had the big lightening holes drilled instead of star flanged and they were 3lbs lighter each that the stock length axles with no lightening holes in the flanges I had.
The Bogart wheels bare were 10.5lbs, these are 20. But I am not using using tubes now so thats 4.5lbs a side, so the rear wheels/tires alone are around 5lbs a side heavier, subtract the 3lbs for the shorter axles with the lighteneing holes plus the front wheels are 2.5lbs lighter and that puts me .5 less than what I had for rotating, minus 11lbs static weight for the housing.
So yea its pretty much a wash weight wise
Intresting about the grinding the calipers, I thought the drag brakes cleared everything.
I wanted to try to:
mov the control arms all the way in, I have about 2 inches of clearance now from teh control arm to the tire, to get about another 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
Narrow the rear about 5 inches per side, as much as possible, cut the control arm brackets in 1/2 and just make it the width of the rod end, cut/modify the phb mount too.
Get a 4.5 inch backspace wheel, to move the tires back out 3 inches, but still have the tires pulled in 2 inches on both sides so they're tucked up in.
I figured the wheels would be about the weight's that you're seeing, but I would have thought that the housing and axles would have gotten alot lighter.
I was thinkign a fab housing, alum center section and 40 spline gun drilled/star flanged axles to go with it to help the cause, along with an alum spool and a lightened pro gear set.
09-18-2008, 09:43 AM
#57
Intresting about the grinding the calipers, I thought the drag brakes cleared everything.
I wanted to try to:
mov the control arms all the way in, I have about 2 inches of clearance now from teh control arm to the tire, to get about another 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
Narrow the rear about 5 inches per side, as much as possible, cut the control arm brackets in 1/2 and just make it the width of the rod end, cut/modify the phb mount too.
Get a 4.5 inch backspace wheel, to move the tires back out 3 inches, but still have the tires pulled in 2 inches on both sides so they're tucked up in.
I figured the wheels would be about the weight's that you're seeing, but I would have thought that the housing and axles would have gotten alot lighter.
I was thinkign a fab housing, alum center section and 40 spline gun drilled/star flanged axles to go with it to help the cause, along with an alum spool and a lightened pro gear set.
I wanted to try to:
mov the control arms all the way in, I have about 2 inches of clearance now from teh control arm to the tire, to get about another 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
Narrow the rear about 5 inches per side, as much as possible, cut the control arm brackets in 1/2 and just make it the width of the rod end, cut/modify the phb mount too.
Get a 4.5 inch backspace wheel, to move the tires back out 3 inches, but still have the tires pulled in 2 inches on both sides so they're tucked up in.
I figured the wheels would be about the weight's that you're seeing, but I would have thought that the housing and axles would have gotten alot lighter.
I was thinkign a fab housing, alum center section and 40 spline gun drilled/star flanged axles to go with it to help the cause, along with an alum spool and a lightened pro gear set.
I wouldnt run an aluminum spool in a heavy drag car, thats asking for trouble, a lighter steel spool and lightened ring gear is the way to go.
Myself I dont like to overdo tucked rear look on these cars, with the big curve on the fenders/quarters they look funny to me. It is nice for geting the car lower, but where mine sits right now it can barely get in the trailer, and my trailer has the low car package. Not to mention its almost impossible to jack the front up without going up on 2" ramps the way it is.
A fab housing would be lighter, not a whole bunch for a braced one and I wouldnt run a non-braced fab housing myself. Besides taking weight off the the rear sometimes does more harm then good. I would spend the $$ on things like mikronite (sp) the ring and pinion and ceramic bearings before I would worry about 20lbs over the rear tires.
09-18-2008, 10:34 AM
#58
I work @ a place that makes the ***** that go on ball bearings, and I dunno about the load capability of a ceramic bearing. I know that they're out there, but the life and reliability kind of worry me a little in something that will see the load of a drag car's rear.
I don't want to go crazy lowering the car but I would like to get a 29.5 S tire on the car and up in the wheel well a little bit more.
I'm not doing anything with the rear until have the car minitubbed, that will remove a good 30+ lbs from what I understand, at that point I can get the 29.5 tires, slug them on the rims I have, see what that looks like (I think the back of the car will need to come down an inch or 2, and the tranny tunnel will need to be notched and remade for clearance, not a huge deal). Stock tank will be gonzo by then, so no problems there.
Alot of people have said the bigger tire isn't needed, but I can't see it hurting the car really, and if anything it will be more consistant.
I don't want to go crazy lowering the car but I would like to get a 29.5 S tire on the car and up in the wheel well a little bit more.
I'm not doing anything with the rear until have the car minitubbed, that will remove a good 30+ lbs from what I understand, at that point I can get the 29.5 tires, slug them on the rims I have, see what that looks like (I think the back of the car will need to come down an inch or 2, and the tranny tunnel will need to be notched and remade for clearance, not a huge deal). Stock tank will be gonzo by then, so no problems there.
Alot of people have said the bigger tire isn't needed, but I can't see it hurting the car really, and if anything it will be more consistant.
09-18-2008, 04:21 PM
#60
I work @ a place that makes the ***** that go on ball bearings, and I dunno about the load capability of a ceramic bearing. I know that they're out there, but the life and reliability kind of worry me a little in something that will see the load of a drag car's rear.
I don't want to go crazy lowering the car but I would like to get a 29.5 S tire on the car and up in the wheel well a little bit more.
I'm not doing anything with the rear until have the car minitubbed, that will remove a good 30+ lbs from what I understand, at that point I can get the 29.5 tires, slug them on the rims I have, see what that looks like (I think the back of the car will need to come down an inch or 2, and the tranny tunnel will need to be notched and remade for clearance, not a huge deal). Stock tank will be gonzo by then, so no problems there.
Alot of people have said the bigger tire isn't needed, but I can't see it hurting the car really, and if anything it will be more consistant.
I don't want to go crazy lowering the car but I would like to get a 29.5 S tire on the car and up in the wheel well a little bit more.
I'm not doing anything with the rear until have the car minitubbed, that will remove a good 30+ lbs from what I understand, at that point I can get the 29.5 tires, slug them on the rims I have, see what that looks like (I think the back of the car will need to come down an inch or 2, and the tranny tunnel will need to be notched and remade for clearance, not a huge deal). Stock tank will be gonzo by then, so no problems there.
Alot of people have said the bigger tire isn't needed, but I can't see it hurting the car really, and if anything it will be more consistant.
people have ran 1.5 seconds faster than me on a 10.5x28 so I got a ways to go before I worry about bigger tires.Pro stocks use ceramic bearings in the rear and they seem to hold up fine, look at the driveshaft speed on them things. They dont use aluminum spools though.
Na, I still have most of the bump stops on there. I could probably go in another 1/4" if I had to but I think it looks OK as it is. Like I said above if I mini tun it I'll just back half the thing.