View Poll Results: Which parts?
Stall converter
12
40.00%
Torque Arm
5
16.67%
TA relocation mount
4
13.33%
Lower control arms
7
23.33%
LCA relocation brackets
8
26.67%
Slicks
3
10.00%
Drag radials
14
46.67%
Street tires
2
6.67%
Subframe connectors
7
23.33%
Springs
3
10.00%
Shocks
4
13.33%
Rear end gear
4
13.33%
Other (please post)
7
23.33%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll
Best way to cut 60ft while sparring the 10-bolt
09-13-2008, 08:57 PM
#21
Stay off drag radials. Your biggest killer is wheel hop. Adjustable shocks, slicks, a good stall, and maybe a set of relocation brackets. Leave the stock gear in it. The steeper the gear the weaker the rear. A rear end girdle wouldn't hurt...... So when it does go at least the girdle will hold everything in so its not all over the track. 
09-13-2008, 10:33 PM
#22
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Might want to try a LPW Axle-Tube Brace
easy to install, just requires a little welding
The LPW Axle-Tube Brace eliminates case distortion on any width rear end by preventing forward movement of the housing tube ends. Additional stress on bearings, axles and suspension components is also relieved, further ensuring correct wheel alignment. Maintaining proper wheel alignment increases performance and provides even tire wear. Each side of the LPW Axle-Tube Brace is independently adjustable using high-quality, right- and left-hand rod ends.
easy to install, just requires a little welding
The LPW Axle-Tube Brace eliminates case distortion on any width rear end by preventing forward movement of the housing tube ends. Additional stress on bearings, axles and suspension components is also relieved, further ensuring correct wheel alignment. Maintaining proper wheel alignment increases performance and provides even tire wear. Each side of the LPW Axle-Tube Brace is independently adjustable using high-quality, right- and left-hand rod ends.
09-14-2008, 10:46 AM
#23
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thats my car...i just have control arms and panhard and stock t/a. thats prob all i would do and a girdle. the t/a will put power to the rear a lot harder and break sooner.
09-14-2008, 02:20 PM
#25
There's one thing that's not on the list that should be: Weight reduction. If you can decrease the load it sees that's gonna be the one thing that I guarintee will help.
Wheel hop will certainly do it in, so drag radils are out 100%. Bias ply slick that wil absorb shock, a set of relocation brackets, tq arm, anything you can do to get rid of flex. A good rear end cover to help strenthen up the case a little, shocks to help with the weight transfer too.
A better question: Why not just spend the $ on a good rear and get it over with?
Wheel hop will certainly do it in, so drag radils are out 100%. Bias ply slick that wil absorb shock, a set of relocation brackets, tq arm, anything you can do to get rid of flex. A good rear end cover to help strenthen up the case a little, shocks to help with the weight transfer too.
A better question: Why not just spend the $ on a good rear and get it over with?
09-14-2008, 09:26 PM
#26
There's one thing that's not on the list that should be: Weight reduction. If you can decrease the load it sees that's gonna be the one thing that I guarintee will help.
Wheel hop will certainly do it in, so drag radils are out 100%. Bias ply slick that wil absorb shock, a set of relocation brackets, tq arm, anything you can do to get rid of flex. A good rear end cover to help strenthen up the case a little, shocks to help with the weight transfer too.
A better question: Why not just spend the $ on a good rear and get it over with?
Wheel hop will certainly do it in, so drag radils are out 100%. Bias ply slick that wil absorb shock, a set of relocation brackets, tq arm, anything you can do to get rid of flex. A good rear end cover to help strenthen up the case a little, shocks to help with the weight transfer too.
A better question: Why not just spend the $ on a good rear and get it over with?
Because no one ever wants to drop that Nut, its a 2500-3000$ by the time your done, fully optioned rear, shipping, driveshaft, and the misc labor/fluids to get it done. PLUS your time to do the work!!
09-14-2008, 09:34 PM
#27
But once you do, it makes life so much easier. That is the bridge only we diehards are normally willing to cross. now looking back on it, I wish I would of left the car as just a 9 inch rear end car! It was a blast back then. Beat on it 24/7 and it didn't make enough power to break anything.
09-16-2008, 07:21 PM
#28
kill it To have fun this summer, I stabbed in a 4000 stall converter and shift kit, 4.11 gear, qa1 adjustable front shocks, comp engineering rear shocks, pete z-bars, 30x9 drag slick, a $75 tune, and a 150 horse shot of the laughing gas. After 8 races, 8 Friday nights (sometimes with two racers), and 3 15lb bottles of nitrous, it still hasn't blown. She runs 7.60 @89 mph and 60fts in 1.62, picking the fronts up a little. I've been shocked by that, seeing that my 3rd gen puked a posi every quarter and ran a second slower. I guess some of these rears want to live and most want to die. I say put in a $200 summit gear and have fun 'til she blows, then you'll be forced to buy one. Just be sure that you can get a ride back home.
Wayne
Wayne
09-17-2008, 04:59 PM
#29
one thing to think about is if you are going w/ drag wheels on rear...
if you go aftermarket rear now, you can get a shortened rear along w/ deeper dish wheels (rather than having to buy another set of wheels to fit shortened rear after 10 bolt dies).
just my 0.02
if you go aftermarket rear now, you can get a shortened rear along w/ deeper dish wheels (rather than having to buy another set of wheels to fit shortened rear after 10 bolt dies).
just my 0.02
