Help with Battery Relocation
any helps or tips/ writeups.
not sure what im going to hold it down with cus most of the mounts they have are only no bottles.
Also: www.madelectrical.com
And, #4 wire may cause excessive voltage drop. Especially, when starting a hot engine.
Using the body for ground, on a unibody, can cause this same problem.
I would still step up to 2 ga wire. Might have some problems on cold mornings otherwise.
I've had my battery in the back for a while now with 0 problems on a 2 ga wire. Also, I did upgrade my ground in the front, otherwise you'll get a ground differential that can make the car do weird things. Make the ground in the front AT LEAST as big as your + wire.
I can post pics of my setup if anyone is interested.
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Ground in the back. I just enlarged an existing hole, stripped the paint around it, and ran a bolt through.

Fuse in line on the + wire.

Distribution block up front

Ground up front (2ga) and under the bumper where I grounded it to. Got rid of the factory ground all together.

Like I said, I'm doing some things on the car today, and I'll get some pictures of the battery relocation and bottle mount as I'm working on it and post up later.
Pictures, as I promised.




So 200 is all you need? I would think it would be more. As a result of this i haven't purchased a fuse yet!
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...elocation4.jpg
2 ga positive goes into the distribution block, factory starter, alternator, and main fuse box wire go into the block. I wanted something simple, clean, and reliable.
Oh, and 200 amps should be PLENTY. If your starter pulls something more than that and pops the fuse, there's something wrong somewhere. I've been running the fuse for over 2 years now with 0 problems.



