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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #21  
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What did Ed think the problem was? Was it huffing like there was a dead cylinder. You're like 30% down on power. There is a definate issue somewhere, that is alot more than can be contributed to parasitic loss through the drivetrain. Do you have datamaster or any other scan tool to log a pull? I would like to see what the timing is doing. Does it feel strong on the street?

Ed is one of the premier LT1 tuners. You made the right choice going with him. I wish I would have made the trip up to Tulsa when I had my LT1.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 04:58 AM
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We need to see a plot of the intake air temps & knock reduction.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:27 AM
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What converter are you running? Did you get it built for the blower? Maybe its just blowing through?
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pyronotic138
10psi ATI P600B.... 6000rpm
do you have the logs to show that boost?? and is it measured via the MAF or after the blower...???

1: the 600b blower is on the small side for that motor, i know procharger sais its fine up to 700 Hp, but my experience tells me otherwise

2: what is the pressure drop over your intercooler?? it could very well be that your engine only sees 4-5 psi of relatively warm charge...

and the rest of that hp is lost in the 4l80 (thats propably not in lockup right?) and the rear end.... the rest bit pf power is most likely lost in an exhaust that is too small, are you running straight thru, or chambered mufflers??
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #25  
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i ran 3" all the way back. and ed did say that there was no knock at alll whatsoever. i do have datamaster. i will try to get a file up and all. how do i upload the file to this to show everyone the file
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:47 AM
  #26  
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There would be no reason to read boost anywhere other than off the intake manifold. Maf's don't read boost either. Why such a low compression and big cam to only put 10psi to it? I would deffinitly be doing all mechanical checks to it. You are likely going to have to stick some boost to it to get it to respond. That compression is just rediculously low. An 8:1 compression motor should have 20psi or more to it.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by zippy
Why such a low compression and big cam to only put 10psi to it? I would deffinitly be doing all mechanical checks to it. You are likely going to have to stick some boost to it to get it to respond. That compression is just rediculously low. An 8:1 compression motor should have 20psi or more to it.
These were my exact thoughts when I read over the 8:1 compression comment. That's real low for 10PSI of boost.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #28  
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we had a vacuum boost gauge on it and it went from a vacuum to 5 psi then went up to 10 psi over about 3000rpm to 6000rpm. and according to ATi with the dampner and the diameter of my pulley on the supercharger. they told me i should se at least 14 psi. which is what i built the motor for
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:45 AM
  #29  
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hmmm, I have a Fabed 9 and a 4L80E with a very similiar motor combo and well be looking for around 700RWHP with my D1SC with Ed tuning.
Your blower is kinda of small (smallest one from procharger for out cars) but I could see maxing out the blower and it making around 580rwhp with that drivetrain you have.
What is your pulley combo and the RPM you shift at. I will figure out your blower speed rpm.

Ben
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:45 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by pyronotic138
i ran 3" all the way back. and ed did say that there was no knock at alll whatsoever. i do have datamaster. i will try to get a file up and all. how do i upload the file to this to show everyone the file
Copy and past the tables into an excel document.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 12:27 PM
  #31  
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If it's really not down a cylinder or two and there's no knock "whatsoever" then the ignition timing is probably way retarded - like what you think is 20deg total might be 5deg or less. Sounds like you're running an ATI damper, did you set your base ignition timing off of the damper? If so, who set the pointer? Did they take proper care to do it RIGHT and use a bridge/dial-indicator on a piston while the motor was going together?
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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yes running the ATI damper.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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datalogged it for everyone wanting my datamaster file. i did realize though there was code 43 tuned out. and i reflashed it to see what would happen with 43 turned back on. and triggers code 43 and now has timing retard. max i seen it get was upward or 10degrees. which is quit a bit. can anyone help this situation. and what will it do if i would tune out code 43 again.

here is a link to mediafire with my datamaster file with code 43 and original running

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=1...4e75f6e8ebb871

here is a datamaster run of it after i cleaned plugs and turned code 43 off

http://www.mediafire.com/file/arm2tmrnn2y/383 lt4 10psi2.uni

Last edited by pyronotic138; Mar 18, 2009 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 05:55 PM
  #34  
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Hope you get it fixed buddy !!
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #35  
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Damn keaton, I'm making well over you cam only! Just messing man, I hope you get it all fixed up and everything, I've been waiting 2 years to see this thing at a track!
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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well. if the ******* thing would just work. like its supposed to then i wouldnt have this issue
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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if anyone wants a video of it running or something i could do it whith a matching datamaster file to the video
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pyronotic138
well. if the ******* thing would just work. like its supposed to then i wouldnt have this issue

i think that everytime i do something to the car
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Can you post a screenshot or scan?
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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