Dyno'd today and WTF!!
One last hint of advice. Sell the 85mm maf and put a stock one back on the car. It's not helping you at all with an LS6 intake, stock sized lid and stock sized TB. You still have a bottle neck before AND after the MAF, which pretty much renders it useless. Stock Fbody MAF's are good to 480rwhp or so before they need to be changed out IMO.
You need that a/f up to about 13.2, get some good gas and plugs in the car and bypass that horrible excuse for a free-flowing muffler and you should be set. You aren't making 440RWHP with a 228R cam though.
M6 or A4?
You need that a/f up to about 13.2, get some good gas and plugs in the car and bypass that horrible excuse for a free-flowing muffler and you should be set. You aren't making 440RWHP with a 228R cam though.
M6 or A4?
You need that a/f up to about 13.2, get some good gas and plugs in the car and bypass that horrible excuse for a free-flowing muffler and you should be set. You aren't making 440RWHP with a 228R cam though.
M6 or A4?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
-11.5 is very rich, but it's not going to pick you up 60rwhp so don't get your hopes up. (That comment is geared towards your hopes of 440rwhp)
-Driving on larger injectors for ONE mile is a no-no, much less 20+ miles. You can easily wash the cylinders out doing that. More than likely your plugs are garbage at the very least.
-Your 85mm MAF might look cute in your engine bay, but if your "tuner" hasn't scaled the MAF properly (and it appears he didn't) your fueling will be all over the place and it's doing you more harm than good. Hence the reason he's trying to command 12.8 A/F in the PCM, and it's giving you 11.5.
-Flowmaster mufflers on F-bodies flow as about as well as Obama's political views. You're easily giving up 10-15rwhp in this department alone.
Put a $35 cutout on the car to bypass the shitty muffler, change your plugs, have your tuner (if he knows how) scale your MAF properly ON THE STREET, and then tune the car ON THE STREET. Then, strap it down and make adjustments for your internet dyno #. Good luck.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...o-results.html
A vette on a DD dyno...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...e-doctors.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...o-results.html
mid 400 seems to be the average with TSP 5.3's. I couldn't find many LS6+228 combos but I know they're out there. A few TEA and TFS/AFR combos were consistently higher. Just trying to help!
A tune that still has the long term fuel trims enabled, will richen up over time, if the tune is not dialed in correctly. This is the most likely cause of your now rich condition.
FWIW, there's nothing wrong with the 98 computers. I have no problem tuning them. There's a little less resolution in the tables, and of course they have a backup VE, but I've never had one run bad just because it was a 98 PCM.
Last edited by kinglt-1; Apr 9, 2010 at 12:11 PM.
...and that.Yup, take it to the track while the tune is off, running rich, and has possible knock... great idea.
There's nothing wrong with 98 cars. I think that's just a common crutch a lot of people use when a car doesn't make the power it should. I've had no problems making power with 98's. Their PCM's arent as "tuner friendly" as all the newer models/OS's, but they still work just fine.
I have the same heads as u with a 224/230 cam...i put down 391 through a vig stall unlocked. I don't have any 1320 times but does 0-60 like a raped ape. About 3.8 on street tires according to the g-tech.
There are a LOT of happy dyno's out there.









