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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #41  
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I explained to you the car was pulled higher, but the rpm lead did not pickup properly. I showed you the graph in speed to prove that as you posted.

look and you will see the last run was more mph then the 1st

The car was down on power, but between very hot humid weather and an LS6 intake it is not surprising.

+ it's just a dyno # and nothing more

get the intake on, tune tweaked and get some track results

here is the #2 & #3 runs which show it dropping off after 6500, so we chose not to pull it any higher then 6500

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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #42  
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So much for the argument about pulling it to 7000 because it'll make more power...

I made 354 ft/lbs of torque when I was lid, catback, and bolt ons, and that was with an ls1 intake as well way back in 2000. Just think, you could have saved yourself about $1500.

My guess, the heads are not working with the cam, for whatever reason.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 06:10 PM
  #43  
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reread the post and it does come off as a bash...was meant to be more of a check...bad products get out all the time...I have personally received more than a handful of products that were made incorrectly, out of tolerance, etc (not from tsp)...my dad has had good luck with the 5.3s and ms3, could very well be the cam was cut wrong too...was it degreed or cam doctored?

check the compression/leak down...
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #44  
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New intake is the first step and once i get it on and tuned then I will look elsewhere for my issues. Thanks for opinions guys. Sorry for starting a little fire lol.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
So much for the argument about pulling it to 7000 because it'll make more power...

I made 354 ft/lbs of torque when I was lid, catback, and bolt ons, and that was with an ls1 intake as well way back in 2000. Just think, you could have saved yourself about $1500.

My guess, the heads are not working with the cam, for whatever reason.
If you are referring to my post please reread it. I never said it would make more power by pulling it to 7,000. I said eliminate that as a first step. Before you start worrying about other things.

As LS1 Speed said, between the humid weather and intake it is not a surprise the numbers were down. Intake, then the track and see if it is a dog. Then if it falls on its face start looking for what it could be. It doesn't have to be some big thing like a valve seal problem. I would have agreed with you on that if he had just tossed on some used heads he bought off the board and had no info on their history.

We just have a different approach... I would just start with the easiest things first. Not saying your way is wrong, just different than mine.

I wish the OP good luck.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 06:56 AM
  #46  
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Bill I wasn't bashing anyone, but was just commenting on the people who were simply focused on his horsepower number, and yes, if you spin it higher, you'll get more horsepower is it hasn't hit the peak yet. But once you cross over 5000 rpm, for normal street motors, you've already gotten past the peak torque in most cases.

Original poster, get at least an ls6 intake on there, and dyno during some normal temps/humidity and with your combination, you should be seeing 400 ft/lbs of torque. Between the compression bump of the heads, and bigger cam, 400 ft/lbs is typical and shouldn't bee to hard to acheive.

I'm not bashing anyone or trying to tell him that he's got problems with the heads or anything like that. I'm simply stating that too many people focus on a horsepower number as a target, but truth be told, max toruqe is a better indicator of a motor working properly. Carrying that torque into the higher rpm band is a function of chosen mods including heads, cam, intake and exhaust.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Bill I wasn't bashing anyone, but was just commenting on the people who were simply focused on his horsepower number, and yes, if you spin it higher, you'll get more horsepower is it hasn't hit the peak yet. But once you cross over 5000 rpm, for normal street motors, you've already gotten past the peak torque in most cases.

Original poster, get at least an ls6 intake on there, and dyno during some normal temps/humidity and with your combination, you should be seeing 400 ft/lbs of torque. Between the compression bump of the heads, and bigger cam, 400 ft/lbs is typical and shouldn't bee to hard to acheive.

I'm not bashing anyone or trying to tell him that he's got problems with the heads or anything like that. I'm simply stating that too many people focus on a horsepower number as a target, but truth be told, max toruqe is a better indicator of a motor working properly. Carrying that torque into the higher rpm band is a function of chosen mods including heads, cam, intake and exhaust.
Thanks for your post. Actually, I learned things from your posts that I hadn't known. Always nice for differing views and helping someone out who is having problems.

Okay, now the fun starts. Did you ever see my post with my graph. It was a Mustang dyno which reads VERY low. My friend with almost the same setup put down 20 more RWHP & 20 RWTQ. These are the two highest head & cam numbers put down on this dyno. So, it should give you an idea on how stingy.

How much will a big converter throw off the numbers, especially TQ? Here is a link to the post with video.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...-000-rpms.html

Your thoughts?

Later,
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #48  
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No clue on how much an a4 with a big converter eats up. If this guys car was an a4, I probably wouldn't have even posted in here, but the fact that a manual trans, barring a slipping clutch, can take the transmission out of the equation, it's easier to compare a m6 to another m6 unlike one a4 to another.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:36 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
No clue on how much an a4 with a big converter eats up. If this guys car was an a4, I probably wouldn't have even posted in here, but the fact that a manual trans, barring a slipping clutch, can take the transmission out of the equation, it's easier to compare a m6 to another m6 unlike one a4 to another.
Point Taken.... .Thanks.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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I really get tired of the same couple guys always attempting to blame valve seal anytime PRC is even mentioned. We use the top seat & guide equipment available in the world. Every set of heads that ship are completely checked prior to shipping to make sure they seal & will do as advertised. We also stand behind our products as well or better than any LS company out there.

You know some of you guys that have absolutely no experience with any of our cylinder heads that like to get in threads & talk **** is getting real old. How about you actually come down here & see what goes into a set of our heads. At that point if your smart enough to find issue with what we're doing then you have a right to post. Talking **** based off something Bret said on HCls1 while trying to bash doesn't prove anything.

If there is anything wrong with the heads we will replace or refund. That's always been our policy & we always work to make sure the customer is happy.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
reread the post and it does come off as a bash...was meant to be more of a check...bad products get out all the time...I have personally received more than a handful of products that were made incorrectly, out of tolerance, etc (not from tsp)...my dad has had good luck with the 5.3s and ms3, could very well be the cam was cut wrong too...was it degreed or cam doctored?

check the compression/leak down...
Whether you intended it that way, that's the way it looks to me. If it looks that way to me, then it more than likely looks that way to someone else. That would be like me post on here that your induction kit doesn't fit properly and you have to modify it to make it work. I don't know that. I've never seen it. But I decided I just want to post just in case that might be a problem for someone. Now the next guy who reads the thread sees my post and since I MIGHT be right, he doesn't buy it. You just missed a sale b/c I heard something on the internet...

Jon
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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I still think a compression and/or leak down test are necessary
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 11:35 AM
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I never specifically blamed the cylinder heads, but if they weren't setup correctly, that can be an issue. Fact is, if he's at ~350 ft/lbs of torque through an m6 with long tubes, larger cam, milled heads etc, he's got a problem with the amount of cylinder pressure being generated. Is his intake responsible for a loss of 50 ft/lbs at the wheels? I doubt it, so now you need to look at what's happening in the cylinder at the time of combustion that's limiting him power wise. Maybe it's a valvetrain issue, maybe it's a fueling issue, although it did look like he's around 13:1 afr, so I don't think that's an issue. Maybe the motor is bad to begin with and he was less than 300ft/lbs before the heads and cam.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by White.Lightning
I still think a compression and/or leak down test are necessary
I'm not worrying about it until I get an intake set-up on and have it retuned. I'm gonna have to agree with Ron on this one and say the heat/humidity combined with a restrictive intake is the main source of whats holding the power back. Sure there are thousands of other things that could be going on with the car. My first step is gonna be intake regardless. If the numbers are still shittier than what they should be after that then I can go looking for problems in the motor/clutch/heads/whatever. But the bottom line is it needs a new intake to reach the full potential of the heads/cam so why not try that first?
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 93batmobile
I'm not worrying about it until I get an intake set-up on and have it retuned. I'm gonna have to agree with Ron on this one and say the heat/humidity combined with a restrictive intake is the main source of whats holding the power back. Sure there are thousands of other things that could be going on with the car. My first step is gonna be intake regardless. If the numbers are still shittier than what they should be after that then I can go looking for problems in the motor/clutch/heads/whatever. But the bottom line is it needs a new intake to reach the full potential of the heads/cam so why not try that first?
I agree fully. Get an intake on there and see what it does before you start to worry.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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I do not recall seeing anyone note checking pushrod length/pre-load before next dyno visit as well.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 SPEED
I do not recall seeing anyone note checking pushrod length/pre-load before next dyno visit as well.
I was trying to cover a multitude of different valvetrain issues with my statement that something in the valvetrain could be off. Could be too long of a pushrod that's causing valves to hang open, even the slightest could cause problems.

Could be a bad plug / plug wire etc. Maybe plugs are toast and he's getting misfires, who knows, but some more research needs to be done for sure.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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The car pulled clean on the dyno so I doubt a plug or wire.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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The curve is a classic MS3 dyno, just about 50lb ft of torque low everywhere. I'd like to see the weather station numbers compared to actual conditions. Looks to me like you got a bad weather correction on the dyno and your motor is actually stronger than the graph suggests.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
The curve is a classic MS3 dyno, just about 50lb ft of torque low everywhere. I'd like to see the weather station numbers compared to actual conditions. Looks to me like you got a bad weather correction on the dyno and your motor is actually stronger than the graph suggests.

You took the words right out of my mouth Patrick

Okay, not really but that makes so much sense I wish I would have thought of it. I guess the slip of a finger when entering the info could do that.
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