A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Lets say the NA cam in your engine only needs a valvespring with pressures
like 100lbs.seat and 260 open @ 500 lift just as an example. Now with boost
you have to imagine the amount of boost times the surface area of a 2.00"
intake valve(minus the stem diameter) pushing at the valve when closed.
It would probably need springs with 130 and 310lbs. to keep everything in
check @ the higher rpms. You may not have ONE bad spring but rather
an inadecuate amount of pressure to work with the power adder.

Johnboy26

Makes sense. Thanks for the input. I just have to get the time to check them out. Not looking forward to changing them out. Local shops told me its a pain.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

He beat me to it. You don't need a FAST intake or H/S rockers.

Don't just throw parts at it find out what the problem is.

The problem with asking on an internet forum is you will get a bunch of answers from people who don't really know how to diagnose problems on cars or how to fix them.

Don't throw parts at it.

Johnboy26

Thanks. I did just recently put a new timing chain and oil pump on it since it has 98k now and I don't know what kind of life the car had before me and I know I'm hard on it so you can't go wrong with that. I also replaced the sts scavage pump with a bigger and better one. I also added a transmission cooler for the transmission I just had built. I haven't had anymore oil coming through the intake piping since I replaced the scavage pump. I did discover yesterday that I have a problem with the pcv system which I have searched on and found some good info and that the sts pcv system is junk so I will replace that next and try to get the time and $$$ to check out my valves and replace them if necessary. Im hoping to get everything sorted out and get to the track once or twice this year. I haven't been since I sold the cobra and really miss going. Thanks for all the opinions and input guys. It's really helped alot.

Johnboy26

Hey guys. just an update on my car. I finally got the time and money to get my problem fixed. I had a local shop here in town do the work for me. We pulled the heads and found that we were actually able to compress the valve springs by hand so they got replaced along with hardened pushrods, new lifters. Had the heads cleaned up and the exhaust ports opened up a litle bit and polished. I also got a cam from comp cams and had it installed. I don't have the specs right in front of me but I think it was 222/220. Lift is 566/564 with a 115 lsa. While we were in there I had new cam bearings installed and mine were pretty bad. had a new BMR torque arm installed, 3.73 Richmond gears, and upgraded the fuel pump to a 255 lph thats rated at 750 hp. I drove the car easy the next two weeks until I could get it tuned but wanted to make sure everything was good. When I finally made it up to Speedsouth in Pelham, AL. ( big mistake not using someone different I know now ) but he said he got the air/ fuel ratio correct so its not running lean or anthing at any rpm's, but the first wot run he made on the dyno the car started spewing oil from around the rear of the engine on the side with the starter. Of course the tuner wouldn't look at it and claimed to not know anything about oil and stuff. It would only do it at wot and not lower rpms. Well I still got charged for tuning and he said on the first pull which I saw him go to 6000+ rpms give or take a litle it made 390rwhp. I was like wtf? So I got my car and left because that was ridiculous and I wasn't paying them to do anything else with it. Turned out to be just a faulty o-ring around the crank sensor. After driving the car a little I noticed that at wot the car would bust up or sputter, and when I let of the throttle the car would smoke. Only when I let off the throttle though. Later I found out the plugs were gapped at .045 so yesterday I pulled them, did a compression test on each cylinder, regapped them at .028, and installed them. All cylinders had great compression and all equal and didn't leak down. Unfortunately it was raining today so I couldn't test it out. I'm hoping the sputtering problem is fixed. When I drove it home it seemed to drive alright but again the roads were wet so I didn't lay into it. At home it idled up and down from around 900rpm's to 700rpm's so I'm not sure what the deal is with that. I do know that there is no way the car should have made less hp after replacing bad valve springs, having the heads worked, and installing a cam. I do plan on finding another tuner around here and getting this car where it should be whatever that it. I'm still only running 7 psi as well.

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

Dont buy a FAST for FI..

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I had that same problem with sputtering at wot and it was a bad o2 sensor demanding alot of fuel at wot. Got that fixed and all was good there. I personally use ngk tr6 gapped @ .032" and they work great @ 9lbs of boost. BTW my engine has 197k on it with all stock parts and has been dd with the blower for 27k so far. I keep the rpm's @ 6000 max and my 3.23 a4 makes 450rwhp so that should give you something to compare to. GL with the car....

Johnboy26

Thanks for the info bud. I appreciate that. I will check the O2 sensors next.Did yours throw a code or anything to let you know it was the O2 sensors? I just want to get this thing straightened out like it should be. I'm hoping with everything running right I should get over 500rwhp and torque and get into the 11's at the track. Thanks again.