SSdreamz

iTrader: (3)

numbers in my sig. LS6 intake, stock TB, 238/240 cam, M6, AFR 205 heads straight out of the box

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

anyone know if a 232-234 be to small for a 383? its in my 346 ls6 and its almost perfect in driveablity to me. bucks a lil if not engaged right but overall ok, i think a 230-232 would have been a better choice for me just to take that lil annoyance away . Can someone compare what cam i`d like in 383?

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

My boy has a 242/248 640/640 113 in his 383ci. He has no bucking. My cam is a lil bigger in dur and i have no bucking either. My lift is not crazy like his..

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

dang those are big cams too. Thats interesting and exciting to hear.

Only thing that confuses me is that i was reading threw some threads and patrick g compared/said that a 236-242 cam in a 383, is similar to a 230-236 in a 346...going off this.....
so if mines a lil bucky at 232-234 in a 346, by math sense = a 238-242 in a 383....
so if im trying to minimize the buck, i`d want something that equals like a 230-232 in a 346, so in a 383 it`d be a 236-238........but yours is fine with no street problems....

I`m obviously not understanding everything right.....Will someone chime in to help me better understand.....

SSdreamz

iTrader: (3)

Pat specd my cam off the same theory, my cam in my 346 was the TQ2 . i liked that cam in my 346, so in essance, he sized basically the same drivability and tq curve into my new cam for the 383

SIC GTO

I plan on building a 383 also someday. I'm gonna run my ms3 at first probly, then switch later on to a custom grind that my friends shop specd. It's bigger than the ms3 and made really good numbers in my neighbors c5 vette on stock bottom ls1 (507rwhp on mustang dyno) w/ very nicely ported 243's and fast 102.
I'll also run a fast 102 with trickflow heads and hope for 500rwhp.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

hows the drivability and `buck` with the 238-240, From what i`ve seen and read, it seems like i want to custom grind mine as well, something around 236-240, .602 .609 lsa 114-116.

Seems like thats just about the same in drivability , maybe even a little better....

And to answer a previous question, i will be N/A im sure with nitrous....

SIC GTO

my ms3 is 237/242 and I DD my car, it only bucks when going too slow in low rpm like in a parking lot.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

is this in your 346?

SIC GTO

Yup 346

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

dang, i couldnt imagine something like that in my car. I`m annoyed with the fact i have to let my car warm up, and hard to drive for the first 5-10 mins cause when i come to a stop, it wants to die. And if im slowing down(almost to a stop) and turning it does die sometimes. Its a pain and i have a much smaller cam.


anyone else have more examples on comparing 346-383 cams and how they act.....

SIC GTO

Sometimes my car dies but its not a big deal, could just have the tuner bump the idle up a bit I guess.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

i drove 150 miles, twice to get it tuned by newtech in hayward. Funny thing is sometimes when i drive it a little and let it idle in neutral while im moving, it idles at 1,650rpm...hella high.....

But whatever...Back on topic. "anyone know if a 232-234 be to small for a 383? its in my 346 ls6 and its almost perfect in driveablity to me. bucks a lil if not engaged right but overall ok, i think a 230-232 would have been a better choice for me just to take that lil annoyance away . Can someone compare what cam i`d like in 383?"

Also, i still want to be able to rev it up top and not loose any power, around 6800-7000rpm.

Heres exactly what i want. A 383ci n/a with a 200shot occasionally. making power throughout the powerband, but mostly mid to high. I want a smoother idle this time`mines currently a 112+0`....so im thinking at Least a 114 this time....

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

My 383, 236/242 .624/.609 113, Fast 90 (unported) NW 90mm TB, 85mm MAF, 243's ported through an M6 and MWC Fab9" put down 471/441 on a dynojet.

Was hoping it would do a bit better but it's a safe/reliable tune AFR 13.0 with 26*max timing and no KR.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

about the only way i have determined to get an equal cam in different cubic inch motors would be to establish the degrees overlap per cubic inch and simply keep altering the duration and lsa until you achieve the same number. overlap is responsible for how the engine will idle. more overlap = more lope. meeting your goals would require some extensive trial and error with regard to duration and lsa combos. all of which can be done on paper that would at least get you in the ballpark.

your idling and driving issues are TUNE related and have 0 to do with your baby 232/234 cam. that cam should not buck or surge at all, and definitely should not cause your car to die, ever, under most any circumstance. that engine is tuned very poorly. i have personally driven 2 cars, both of which had more than 20* overlap cams, in stock ls1 engines, neither of which died, nor did they surge or hunt for an idle when coming to a stop. they were honestly very easy to drive, despite their size.

good tuning > *.

edit: local guy here has a carbed 383 that put down low 430s on the dyno, through a th400, 9" and slicks. the car went high 9s @ 134+ last year. i believe he was using a trex cam and some out of the box afr heads. he has done some work over the winter that should lead to even quicker/faster times.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

thats crazy, good numbers and times.

Thats disappointing to hear that Nick seems to not tune well even though alot of people said he`s good. It`s just frustrating to know i drive far out of my way not once, but twice and spent alot on him to know this.....wtf...i guess new tuner is in my future unless he response on here and settles this....

s346k

iTrader: (4)

the engine is in a fox mustang that is more or less strictly a drag chassis. i personally thought the combo would suck...trex cam with unaltered afr heads on a 12:1 383. it seems to work well, though.

your first clue to that guy's tuning ability should've laid with your dyno numbers. bolt on ls6 motors typically make 390whp...a cammed ls6 only making 409...? maybe on stock manifolds. usually 230+ duration cammed ls6 cars will easily make 420+. it seems like i've seen hundreds of lg cammed zo6 cars making 425+ with just headers and a tune.

is your car an auto or stick?

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

it is a stick, and yes im disappointed in the numbers too.. specially the 368tq. terrible.

SIC GTO

My cam only ls1 gto made 393rwhp and 375rwtq on a dynocom which reads lower than dynojet.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

so how is the drivability with the cam? Im thinking on going with something with a bigger split, like a 236-242 or something with a 60x lift on a 114+2

I keep reading and reading on what people say on what 383`s like a respond to well, and it seems like that would be a nice set up....

Anyone with high cam info can help? i have prc ls6 2.5 heads and basic bolt ons... Any advice on those heads and mods, and match my street/strip drivability?