EPS 226/230, tea 5.3 1.5, fast 92/92
#61
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Just remembered this, not sure why I didn't mention it earlier. I have a set of TEA 5.3 heads, I acquired them used from someone who bought them from TEA in 2008. I took the heads to a local guy (former employee of Katech) to look them over - anyway, he found a couple of casting flaws inside the heads that required welding. He said it would have been bad news after awhile if they hadn't been fixed. He was able to weld them up and said they'd be good to go. I guess GM had a bad run of 5.3 heads there for awhile.
*Disclaimer - I am in no way a heads or motor expert. Just thought I'd mention it.
*Disclaimer - I am in no way a heads or motor expert. Just thought I'd mention it.
#62
Highway run with my non shiftin ***.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOjtrmsRDlM
I'm having tranny issues. The car kind..... It won't shift at high rpms. I need to adjust the tick master and bleed the clutch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOjtrmsRDlM
I'm having tranny issues. The car kind..... It won't shift at high rpms. I need to adjust the tick master and bleed the clutch.
#63
I talked to TEA this afternoon. I told him my combo and what I had and he said that's about right. He said with the 5.3 heads they normally see 430-440 max. He said the mid range should be good and I told him what it was. He said the thing should run mid 11's with no problem. If I can get my transmission issue's lined out hopefully it will do that. It's hard for me not to start changing parts on it. I've already had visions of some TFS as cast 220 heads and a bigger cam.
#65
Yeah I put about 600 miles on the clutch before I beat on it. I only have problems shifting it at high rpms or under at WOT. It does not want to come in and out of gear. Sometimes the clutch is really hard to push in and others its not. I think i either have air in the line or I don't have the Tick m/c adjusted right or both.
#66
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I talked to TEA this afternoon. I told him my combo and what I had and he said that's about right. He said with the 5.3 heads they normally see 430-440 max. He said the mid range should be good and I told him what it was. He said the thing should run mid 11's with no problem. If I can get my transmission issue's lined out hopefully it will do that. It's hard for me not to start changing parts on it. I've already had visions of some TFS as cast 220 heads and a bigger cam.
Don't spend money on an aftermarket casting, get some 5.3 cores or 243's and send them to A.I. For about $300 less than Trick Flows you'll get a CNC program that makes more power, and doesn't require a rocker modification or YT's.
#68
430-440 "max" is pretty weak. 7-8 yrs ago we were doing 440-450 with TEA 5.3's, smaller camshafts and not near as much tuning knowledge. My hand finished 5.3's went 460/414 with an LS6 intake. I wonder what they've changed.
Don't spend money on an aftermarket casting, get some 5.3 cores or 243's and send them to A.I. For about $300 less than Trick Flows you'll get a CNC program that makes more power, and doesn't require a rocker modification or YT's.
Don't spend money on an aftermarket casting, get some 5.3 cores or 243's and send them to A.I. For about $300 less than Trick Flows you'll get a CNC program that makes more power, and doesn't require a rocker modification or YT's.
So my best educated guess is right now is the cam is too far advanced and the heads are holding me back. Ugh.
I am sure I will change this setup later this year. The wife would divorce me if I took it apart now. Maybe I will be a little happier after I take it to the track. It's going to get a 150 now.
The clutch issues are getting worse. I think the pressure plate is going out.
I could have done a cam swap and LS6 intake and had the same power. Such is life.
I thought I had researched the parts enough and thought things out well enough but apparently I didn't. Hopefully next time will be better.
#72
Geoff said the cam analyzer program he has can't measure advanced ground into the cam. I am still confused on this because what's the point of degreeing a cam and putting it where its suppose to be if this type of thing happens. Maybe the cam had too much advance ground into it and then I advanced it four degrees and made it worse.
However if the cam does have too much advanced ground into it would I see it when I degreed the cam? That question still hasn't been answered yet.
The thing started running like **** yesterday, wouldn't idle at all. I checked and my intake bolts were loose. I had not checked them since I put the FAST on. I figure the gaskets relaxed a little bit and needed snugging up. It idles much better and "I think" part throttle driving feels better but it could be all in my head. The check engine light did go out so it much have helped something.
#75
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Update: My car was just tuned by Norris this morning. Same heads and cam but w/ a ported LS6 intake and ported stock TB (stock pulley too) and she put down 425/400. I'll find out more info tomorrow when I pick her up.
#76
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My TEA 1.5s are from late 2003 with the original springs still on the ran time in sig last time out. I know the heads are fine, Its the way you instaaled that cam or the tune. do what Geoff says to do and retune it.
#77
Thanks for the replies. I have will retard the cam when I replace my oil pump. its been dropping since Friday night. I thought it was reading lower this weekend because it was warmer out but I drove it tonight and it was even lower. I wish someone would answer the question what's the point of degreeing a cam if it doesn't help. I know you said its the way I installed the cam Jason to help but how did I "install" it? Thanks everyone for their help. Fido I haven't fixed the shifting issues yet.
#79
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Thanks for the replies. I have will retard the cam when I replace my oil pump. its been dropping since Friday night. I thought it was reading lower this weekend because it was warmer out but I drove it tonight and it was even lower. I wish someone would answer the question what's the point of degreeing a cam if it doesn't help. I know you said its the way I installed the cam Jason to help but how did I "install" it? Thanks everyone for their help. Fido I haven't fixed the shifting issues yet.
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LilJay--
Got the car back yesterday from Norris. I'm not as knowledgeable about this stuff as others, but here is the info on the car:
-01 SS w/ 24K miles, stock shortblock. No valve relief on the pistons. Stock clutch, rear, and gears
-226/230 112 +2 EPS Cam (don't think it was degreed on install)
-TEA Stg 1.5 5.3 heads (I had Brett @ Landspeed heads do a 4 angle valve job on them). Milled to 62cc
-Ported LS6 intake (ported by Brett @ Landspeed)
-Ported stock TB
-Pacesetter 1 3/4" LTs, and 2.5" true dual over the axle w/ H-pipe
-Stock UD pulley
-160* stat
-Bosch 36 lb injectors in Speed Inc fuel rails
-Walbro 255 pump
Can't think of anything else, but here is the dyno sheet:
Got the car back yesterday from Norris. I'm not as knowledgeable about this stuff as others, but here is the info on the car:
-01 SS w/ 24K miles, stock shortblock. No valve relief on the pistons. Stock clutch, rear, and gears
-226/230 112 +2 EPS Cam (don't think it was degreed on install)
-TEA Stg 1.5 5.3 heads (I had Brett @ Landspeed heads do a 4 angle valve job on them). Milled to 62cc
-Ported LS6 intake (ported by Brett @ Landspeed)
-Ported stock TB
-Pacesetter 1 3/4" LTs, and 2.5" true dual over the axle w/ H-pipe
-Stock UD pulley
-160* stat
-Bosch 36 lb injectors in Speed Inc fuel rails
-Walbro 255 pump
Can't think of anything else, but here is the dyno sheet: