EPS 226/230, tea 5.3 1.5, fast 92/92
05-11-2011, 09:38 PM
#85
That seems right. Hopefully that's where mine will be when I retard my cam. Any idea how much timing or what your injection duty cycle was? I think he set mine at 28 and didn't change it to see if it made any difference. I don't know enough about these engines to know if it would make a difference or not. My art was 13 to 1. My gauge showed 12 to 1. I don't know which one was right. We went with his because he tunes with it everyday.
05-18-2011, 08:38 PM
#87
I don't know if I mentioned it in this thread or another one. My oil pressure had started going down a couple weeks ago. I was preparing for the worst and had started looking for a 6.0 and a set of 799 heads. I decided to replace the OPSU today and that fixed it. 50psi@hot idle and 80psi@ WOT. That made me verrry happy because it was down to 35psi at idle and wouldn't go much above 40psi@WOT. Now it's back to the way is has been for years now.
I also replaced the O2's. It was throwing a slow response code. One was dark and the other was REALLLLY dark. I smoked when I started it up but I figure it was burning some **** out of the exhaust.
Really no update just that my **** isn't going to blow up. Not for that reason anyway.
I also replaced the O2's. It was throwing a slow response code. One was dark and the other was REALLLLY dark. I smoked when I started it up but I figure it was burning some **** out of the exhaust.
Really no update just that my **** isn't going to blow up. Not for that reason anyway.
05-19-2011, 10:58 AM
#89
It's a HSW system. I have everything for it. Gauges, microedge, interface. You name it I have it. I'm getting a wet plate for it soon. When I went with the FAST intake I had to get a new one. I thought about selling it but I'm not sure. Finding out that the bottom end isn't going out makes me feel better and its driving better with the new O2's so I don't hate the thing quite as much. LOL.
05-19-2011, 04:28 PM
#90
It's a HSW system. I have everything for it. Gauges, microedge, interface. You name it I have it. I'm getting a wet plate for it soon. When I went with the FAST intake I had to get a new one. I thought about selling it but I'm not sure. Finding out that the bottom end isn't going out makes me feel better and its driving better with the new O2's so I don't hate the thing quite as much. LOL.
1. Get some AI LS6 heads
2. Get a Nitrous Outlet Wet Plate Kit (probably do a 75-100 shot)
3. Save my coin for that much wanted C6 Z06 & sell the WS6
05-20-2011, 06:02 PM
#92
I have the car on the lift right now taking the front timing cover off to retard the cam. I checked the pushrod length and this is what I have so far.
Intake valve on #1 right at full lift on the intake stroke so there should be no lift on the exhaust valve. It has 7.4 pushrods in it now. Loosened the exhaust valve up till the pushrod spins. Tighten it down with just the socket by hand. I can feel when zero lash comes on by the way the socket feels and the pushrod stops spinning.
From zero lash it takes two full turns to tighten the bolt down. WTF?
I can't wrap my head around the math right now but this doesn't seem right.
The short block is untouched. Stock MLS .051 gaskets. The 5.3 heads have been cut down to 59cc. The machine shop said they took .025-.027 off the heads. Geoff@EPS recommends 7.425 pushrods for stock motors. I put in 7.4 thinking the material that was taken off the heads would compensate for the .025.
I have tried it five times to verify what I'm getting. It's two turns everytime.
I'm going back to pull that bastard balancer off now.
240ft lbs + red loctite=fail
Intake valve on #1 right at full lift on the intake stroke so there should be no lift on the exhaust valve. It has 7.4 pushrods in it now. Loosened the exhaust valve up till the pushrod spins. Tighten it down with just the socket by hand. I can feel when zero lash comes on by the way the socket feels and the pushrod stops spinning.
From zero lash it takes two full turns to tighten the bolt down. WTF?
I can't wrap my head around the math right now but this doesn't seem right.
The short block is untouched. Stock MLS .051 gaskets. The 5.3 heads have been cut down to 59cc. The machine shop said they took .025-.027 off the heads. Geoff@EPS recommends 7.425 pushrods for stock motors. I put in 7.4 thinking the material that was taken off the heads would compensate for the .025.
I have tried it five times to verify what I'm getting. It's two turns everytime.
I'm going back to pull that bastard balancer off now.
240ft lbs + red loctite=fail
05-20-2011, 06:09 PM
#93
A few things to add to this thread:
-For those basing their pushrod length of how much the heads were cut. This is the WRONG way to "judge" your pushrod length. Cylinder head milling is only one part of the equation. Camshaft base circle, lifter choice, etc. They all play a role in determining pushrod length.
FWIW, I don't have to use anything that short (7.350) unless the heads have been cut .035-.040 or more, especially with an LS7 lifter. Most heads cut .015-.020 with a GM lifter and Comp cam need a 7.4-7.425 pushrod. People tend to forget (or just don't know) most aftermarket camshafts have a .050-.060 smaller base circle.
Correctly measure pushrod length, then try again. Too long, or too short of pushrod length can also cause a drastic drop-off of power.
-For those basing their pushrod length of how much the heads were cut. This is the WRONG way to "judge" your pushrod length. Cylinder head milling is only one part of the equation. Camshaft base circle, lifter choice, etc. They all play a role in determining pushrod length.
FWIW, I don't have to use anything that short (7.350) unless the heads have been cut .035-.040 or more, especially with an LS7 lifter. Most heads cut .015-.020 with a GM lifter and Comp cam need a 7.4-7.425 pushrod. People tend to forget (or just don't know) most aftermarket camshafts have a .050-.060 smaller base circle.
Correctly measure pushrod length, then try again. Too long, or too short of pushrod length can also cause a drastic drop-off of power.
If I've done something wrong or measured wrong PLEASE someone tell me. No ego here!
I have an adjustable pushrod I am going to put in and try a longer length to see what I can get.
Thanks guys!
05-20-2011, 06:20 PM
#94
I took a few minutes to chill and looked over some previous posts.
If one full turn is .047 x2(which I have) my preload is .094
Is that too much for a stock lifter? The car has a definite valve train noise right around 2500rpm which I was told all of these engines do. It was noisy at idle but after I changed the oil most of that went away.
If I back down to a 7.375 push rod that should put my preload at .069-.070
Do I have too much preload now?
One more thing. The two turns is just snug on a short snap on ratchet. It's not to 22ft lbs. I'd guess there is probably another 1/4 turn in it before it gets to 22ft lbs.
If one full turn is .047 x2(which I have) my preload is .094
Is that too much for a stock lifter? The car has a definite valve train noise right around 2500rpm which I was told all of these engines do. It was noisy at idle but after I changed the oil most of that went away.
If I back down to a 7.375 push rod that should put my preload at .069-.070
Do I have too much preload now?
One more thing. The two turns is just snug on a short snap on ratchet. It's not to 22ft lbs. I'd guess there is probably another 1/4 turn in it before it gets to 22ft lbs.
Last edited by LilJayV10; 05-20-2011 at 06:28 PM.
05-20-2011, 09:56 PM
#95
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wish i could help man. but i know what you mean. my car has been a head ach, when i built motor on stand i used a push rod checker just like all 4 for my lsx books said to use and check them just like they said i came up with 7.325, been told that to short, so i tried checking with a 7.4 push rod and from zero lash to 22ft i got 1 3/4 turns, put all 7.4 in car ran like crap, re tq the rockers a different way i was told ran like crap, put the 7.325 back in tw rockers like i did on motor stand runs fine again.
05-27-2011, 02:36 PM
#97
If you have LS7 lifters they are taller than LS1 lifters around .050" if I remember correctly. If you have 7.350's I would throw those in, I run 7.350's and my heads are only milled .020". But I have custom lobes so my base circle could be different and I use LS7 lifters. If you have .130" preload you could be bottoming out the lifter, or close. I have around .050" preload and I don't understand how less preload could be noisey? Also make sure you measure intake and exhaust as they will be different.
05-27-2011, 03:28 PM
#98
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If you have LS7 lifters they are taller than LS1 lifters around .050" if I remember correctly. If you have 7.350's I would throw those in, I run 7.350's and my heads are only milled .020". But I have custom lobes so my base circle could be different and I use LS7 lifters. If you have .130" preload you could be bottoming out the lifter, or close. I have around .050" preload and I don't understand how less preload could be noisey? Also make sure you measure intake and exhaust as they will be different.
08-26-2011, 01:33 PM
#100
I wanted to bump this up as it's been a while since I've posted.
As I started to hate the car I finally worked on it last week again. Ends up I had an exhaust leak on the driver side collector. It was leaking in two spots on the top and I missed it before. My gas mileage had went to **** as I was getting around 9mpg. I also found my cutout wasn't closed all the way. The car sounded like a big piece of **** really. Rattled when I started it and such.
I fixed the the collector leak and took the cutout off and put a plate on it.
It's amazing what two small exhaust leaks will do on one of these cars. It sounds better than I ever remember it sounding. My gas mileage has doubled as far as I can tell. It idles correctly now, doesn't buck and die when I take off.
The valve train noise I had around 2500rpm was actually the exhaust leak. How I don't know but it doesn't rattle anymore.
When I got my car dyno'd my tuner said my gauge was off by a point from his. My W/B is in the passenger side and his was in the drivers which is the side the leak was at. I think it might have been leaking then too but I don't know. I don't remember the car ever running this smooth.
Back to the pushrod length question. I think I have a lot of preload .130 according to vettenuts w/ 7.4
Would it be worth it to try some 7.375's?
Thanks!
As I started to hate the car I finally worked on it last week again. Ends up I had an exhaust leak on the driver side collector. It was leaking in two spots on the top and I missed it before. My gas mileage had went to **** as I was getting around 9mpg. I also found my cutout wasn't closed all the way. The car sounded like a big piece of **** really. Rattled when I started it and such.
I fixed the the collector leak and took the cutout off and put a plate on it.
It's amazing what two small exhaust leaks will do on one of these cars. It sounds better than I ever remember it sounding. My gas mileage has doubled as far as I can tell. It idles correctly now, doesn't buck and die when I take off.
The valve train noise I had around 2500rpm was actually the exhaust leak. How I don't know but it doesn't rattle anymore.
When I got my car dyno'd my tuner said my gauge was off by a point from his. My W/B is in the passenger side and his was in the drivers which is the side the leak was at. I think it might have been leaking then too but I don't know. I don't remember the car ever running this smooth.
Back to the pushrod length question. I think I have a lot of preload .130 according to vettenuts w/ 7.4
Would it be worth it to try some 7.375's?
Thanks!