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UPDATE PAGE 6 !!! 402/afr/fast 102 combo Nitrous results = 8xx/8xx

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Old 08-26-2011, 11:16 AM
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Ok so realistically what kinda of power should I expect on a 200hit with a nitrous cam? I have alot of learning to do because I thought this setup would easily break 500rwhp
Even with a nitrous specific cam. Would I not be better off with a cam that makes 540na and spray then one that's barely making 470na (sae)... I still believe their maybe another reason other than the cam.. I'm going to try a few more things and see what it traps.
Old 08-26-2011, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Slamed01Ramair
Ok so realistically what kinda of power should I expect on a 200hit with a nitrous cam? I have alot of learning to do because I thought this setup would easily break 500rwhp
Even with a nitrous specific cam. Would I not be better off with a cam that makes 540na and spray then one that's barely making 470na (sae)... I still believe their maybe another reason other than the cam.. I'm going to try a few more things and see what it traps.
you need to make up your mind. all out spray motor or all out n/a setup. right now as i see it your setup is for spary. if you want it to be more n/a the first thing i would do is seeing your not turning this thing past 7k is put a fast 102 on it with a nice port job. make better use of all that down low tq and hp....

my numbers re with a fast
Old 08-26-2011, 12:42 PM
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^^^ FAIL

He already has a fast 102, it even says so in big letters on the thread title.
Old 08-26-2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RedVertTA
^^^ FAIL

He already has a fast 102, it even says so in big letters on the thread title.
my bad i mixed up post's. have you done what tony M said yet? have you checked? cly psi yet?
Old 09-02-2011, 04:33 PM
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Started putting some tsp 1 7/8 headers on with a tsp y-pipe with 3inch in/ 4 inch out merger. I just realized that there wad about 3ft of stock intermidiate pipe under there right after the y. So all that will be changed out and ill have updated results soon.
Old 09-03-2011, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Slamed01Ramair
Started putting some tsp 1 7/8 headers on with a tsp y-pipe with 3inch in/ 4 inch out merger. I just realized that there wad about 3ft of stock intermidiate pipe under there right after the y. So all that will be changed out and ill have updated results soon.
Old 09-27-2011, 06:54 AM
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How did it turn out?
Old 10-01-2011, 09:46 PM
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No update yet, lack of funds
Old 11-09-2011, 02:49 PM
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Back from the dead! Went to the dyno today, temps were 30degrees cooler swapped from 1 3/4 headers to 1 7/8 with a better merger y and it made 524/472 now here it goes getting weird again every shot of nitrous I sprayed was atleast 50hp off. The bottle was filled but freezing cold had Teribble pressure and I think it was spinning some on the rollers.. Hopeful someone can chime in on my graphs, they look horrible. It's a nitrous outlet 102 plate.. Everything is set up somewhat for the nitrous... Just is not hitting hard.
Was running pretty rich also

Na 524/472
100shot 566/501
200shot 661/593 78n 46f also tried 44f didn't change much
250 shot 641/ 585??? 88n 46f
Old 11-09-2011, 03:22 PM
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200 shot, full bottle but no psi maybe 600

Why so wavy? bottle pressure or tire spin? it sounded like it was being pedaled in an out of the throttle
Attached Thumbnails UPDATE PAGE 6 !!!  402/afr/fast 102 combo Nitrous results = 8xx/8xx-dyno-049.jpg  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:23 PM
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Graphs? Know what your bottle pressure was? A/F?
Old 11-09-2011, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Graphs? Know what your bottle pressure was? A/F?

Idk bottle pressure because my gauge just happened to break earlier but when i first hooked it up it was showing 550-600, but it had just been filled... The air fuel was on the rich side to me... I think in the 11s, I don't see why mid 12s would be bad.. also timming was at 19 Im thinking it may like 22, but im no professional.. I paid to have it done and they didn't seem to cornered! said I probably need a higher flowing valve for my bottle.
Old 11-09-2011, 04:28 PM
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If you started at 550-600 psi, then started emptying it from there, you were no where near optimized.

Need to be at or around 900+ psi for proper performance, check with N2Outlet on exact specs.
Old 11-09-2011, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike@Diablosport
If you started at 550-600 psi, then started emptying it from there, you were no where near optimized.

Need to be at or around 900+ psi for proper performance, check with N2Outlet on exact specs.
I agree, even though the bottle was full, it still needs some psi correct? I mean isn't that what nano and bottle warmers are for? I normally would heat mine till 1050psi at the track. This bottle was in the freezer for over an hr for the fill then put straight on the car. I wanted to heat it up some but the tuner didn't seem to think it was necessary.. ANybody have any ideas why my graph looks so crazy and falls off so hard?
Old 11-09-2011, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Slamed01Ramair
Back from the dead! Went to the dyno today, temps were 30degrees cooler swapped from 1 3/4 headers to 1 7/8 with a better merger y and it made 524/472 now here it goes getting weird again every shot of nitrous I sprayed was atleast 50hp off. The bottle was filled but freezing cold had Teribble pressure and I think it was spinning some on the rollers.. Hopeful someone can chime in on my graphs, they look horrible. It's a nitrous outlet 102 plate.. Everything is set up somewhat for the nitrous... Just is not hitting hard.
Was running pretty rich also

Na 524/472
100shot 566/501
200shot 661/593 78n 46f also tried 44f didn't change much
250 shot 641/ 585??? 88n 46f
The na numbers are more in line with a 402, but the AFR 225's, 1-7/8" & 102/102 over mine made only other 16hp, but 25ft. lbs. less torque. I have been thinking my 215's and 90/90 have been hurting me a bit, but I absolutely love my torque. I have heard the 102/102's hurt torque numbers so I have not yet changed. I will get mine to the track next season to see just how good it runs. After all, it's the track times that really counts.

With some more tuning and dialing-in of the nitrous issue, you will be making killer nitrous numbers. How are you going to hook those monstor nitrous numbers?
Old 11-09-2011, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Slamed01Ramair
I agree, even though the bottle was full, it still needs some psi correct? I mean isn't that what nano and bottle warmers are for? I normally would heat mine till 1050psi at the track. This bottle was in the freezer for over an hr for the fill then put straight on the car. I wanted to heat it up some but the tuner didn't seem to think it was necessary.. ANybody have any ideas why my graph looks so crazy and falls off so hard?
You running a hobbs switch on the fuel pressure? Looks exactly like a hobbs switch that isn't set correctly. Ends up turning the nitrous on/off/on/off over and over.

Your tuner is an idiot if he didn't think bottle pressure was an issue. That's one of the most important elements of nitrous tuning. Everything in a nitrous tune revolves around bottle pressure. It needs to be dead nuts consistent to tune properly.

PS Put a jumper wire across the hobbs switch and run it. Betcha it cures it.

Last edited by edcmat-l1; 11-09-2011 at 07:19 PM.
Old 11-09-2011, 07:20 PM
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well if you have timing pulled for a 250 shot and still making 520 hp then your making awsome power.

I would really be concerned with my tuner here, seems like maybe alot of your issues are comming from him.

lets hope he actually is pulling the timing back for your n20
Old 11-09-2011, 08:11 PM
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LOL at the tuner making dyno pulls with 600psi!!! Take your car somewhere else!!! I like my pressure around 950-1000...
Old 11-09-2011, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
You running a hobbs switch on the fuel pressure? Looks exactly like a hobbs switch that isn't set correctly. Ends up turning the nitrous on/off/on/off over and over.

Your tuner is an idiot if he didn't think bottle pressure was an issue. That's one of the most important elements of nitrous tuning. Everything in a nitrous tune revolves around bottle pressure. It needs to be dead nuts consistent to tune properly.

PS Put a jumper wire across the hobbs switch and run it. Betcha it cures it.
It has the plug n play racetronix hot wire kit, as far as I know it's on right.

I should clarify on the nitrous tune with timming pulled it made 507/469, I just wanted show the difference from the 485 I got with the crappy exhaust setup to current with no other changes. Timming was at 29degrees on the 524 run.

Also I'm not trying to run the tuner down, he's been tunning a long time, I think he assumed my gauge was broken because the pressure was so low, but it's working fine.
Old 11-10-2011, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Slamed01Ramair
It has the plug n play racetronix hot wire kit, as far as I know it's on right.

I should clarify on the nitrous tune with timming pulled it made 507/469, I just wanted show the difference from the 485 I got with the crappy exhaust setup to current with no other changes. Timming was at 29degrees on the 524 run.

Also I'm not trying to run the tuner down, he's been tunning a long time, I think he assumed my gauge was broken because the pressure was so low, but it's working fine.
The hotwire kit has nothing to do with it. The hobbs switch is a protective device that's supposed to cut the nitrous off in the event of a fuel pressure drop. When they're not set correctly, they do exactly what you're describing, and what the graph looks like. It turns the nitrous on/off/on/off repeatedly.


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