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More power, cam only setup

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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 03:56 PM
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Default More power, cam only setup

Took off the SLP 2OTL and my Ypipe, that made the 441w.
Put on 2 short strait thew mufflers with a turn down beofre the rear end, stiffer pushrods and shimmed the valvesprings. Put down 450whp, everything else the same. Mike at NewEra touched the tune up, it runs great. Still have some other things to do, for some more power

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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 04:44 PM
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Sucks terry manton passed away a few days ago.

http://www.mantonpushrods.com/About-...-Pushrods.html
He made me these big bad *** pushrods
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 04:04 PM
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The pushrods lighter? Dont imagine gains from that but idk, The exhaust probly help pick up the most but again idk. Nice gains for sure. Did you rev it any higher?
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Nice!
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 06:40 PM
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That's bad ***

What clutch do u run?
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 08:27 PM
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So you stole my exhaust set-up huh LOL.

What brand mufflers? I've got the Vibrants on mine.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 09:19 PM
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sweet setup! ive heard awesome things about the manton pushrods.

in for more on your setup!!!
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by studderin
Sucks terry manton passed away a few days ago.

http://www.mantonpushrods.com/About-...-Pushrods.html
He made me these big bad *** pushrods
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...1005111719.jpg
Wow... that's terrible news, man. The made me a really nice set of 3/8" dia. .120" wall pushrods for my SBF 347 several years ago. The 3/8" dia. .080" wall Manley pushrods crapped-out around 7k RPM, as the bullet developed a bad misfire on the dyno. We swapped the pushrods and it sung to 8k RPM without missing a beat. I was very impressed (and learned something in the process).

I'm going to be contacting them soon for the LS3 434 I'm currently working on.

Looks like an awesome set of pushrods... .120" wall or thicker??
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Zmg00camaross
The pushrods lighter? Dont imagine gains from that but idk, The exhaust probly help pick up the most but again idk. Nice gains for sure. Did you rev it any higher?
You'd be surprised what can be had from a stiffer (heavier) set of pushrods.

Here is a blurb from Manton's site:

Column Theory
Because a pushrod is an eccentrically loaded column due to angularity load and arc motion within the engines atmosphere, whenever possible, it is most proper to use either a single taper or offset dual taper design pushrod. It is also very important to use the largest diameter pushrod that you can fit in the engine. This will help lessen deflection in the pushrod by putting the major diameter and mass where it is needed the most. The greater the angularity, the greater the arc motion. As the pushrod encounters this, the high load area on the tube moves closer to the energy source. The energy source being the lifter, as it travels up the ramp of the camshaft. It makes it even more important to use these tapered designs when using large roller bearing diameters, increased valve lash, very high engine speeds, high rocker ratios, rapid valve train acceleration and high spring pressure. These tapered designs make it easier for the pushrod to do its job properly, and will enhance the performance of all the other valve train components, which will enable the engine to produce the maximum possible horsepower. The tapered designs and large diameters will also reduce valvetrain harmonics. Do not be over concerned about pushrod weight. The difference between a stock 5/16 diameter pushrod in a small block Chevrolet and a 7/16 to 3/8 tapered pushrod, represents a difference of approximately 2.5% of effective weight. This is because the pushrod is on the slow moving side of the valve train. The effective increase in weight between the two pushrods may be small but provides a huge increase in valve train stability. Remember the valve side of this valve train is the critical side where any weight savings will make marked improvements. No matter what we change, valve train stability is the goal.

Important Special Instructions & Suggestions
It is very important to determine proper pushrod length. Improper pushrod length can cause a number of problems including excessive valve guide wear, lessened valve lift, valve stem side thrust, coil bind, improper valve to piston clearance and also rockerarm to retainer interference (in some cases lash caps can be used to help correct rockerarm to retainer clearance problems).

Check the radius of the lifter receiver cup and rockerarm cup/ball before ordering to help prevent mistakes. Improper ordering may result in parts failure. Watch for variations from stock radius in aftermarket lifters.

Make sure significant oil volume reaches the rockerarm end of the pushrod to help prevent galling due to excessive heat generation and lack of lubrication. To prevent interrupted oil flow to the pushrod, it is very common and almost always necessary to modify the lifter body so oil flows through it no matter where it’s positioned in the lifter bore (call for details). Oil restriction in the engine block is not normally recommended.

When possible, try to use larger diameter pushrods to spread out the load and lower the stress on the tube. This will help lessen pushrod deflection. Heavy wall tubing is a good idea also, to minimize compression. Many problems occur when a pushrod is inadequate for the application.

In high RPM applications tapered pushrods are a must for the serious racers. Tapered designs help to dampen harmonics in the valve train; extended valve spring life and increased usable RPM will usually be noticed.

Do not allow over clearancing for the pushrod. This may cause the pushrod to move around or deflect more than needed. Clearance of .010 at the closest point, wherever that may be during its complete cycle is sufficient. The cylinder head and engine block can often be utilized like a big guide plate and dampening device, which stabilizes the pushrod. Just make sure that there is no interference problems when turning the engine over on the engine stand.

Tapered pushrods should not be used in guide plate applications. Improper clearance and interference problems are sure to occur. Use only straight tube pushrods, specifically surface hardened for guide plate use in this application. Note: See series #2 and #4 for guide plate applications.

If you are using a tool steel rockerarm adjusting screw, it is almost always suggested that a tool steel pushrod tip be used at the rockerarm end. This will ensure proper compatibility.

Note: When using Manton pushrods, adjustments to valve/cam timing, valve to piston clearance and fuel curve may be required.
source: http://www.mantonpushrods.com/Pushrod-Info.html
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:08 PM
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almost 450rwhp on a cam only setup? holy crap.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 04:14 AM
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Holy crap is right!About to check out this New Era website, if they got one !
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 04:19 AM
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Very good website indeed ,just took a look and I see there registered on this site , even better!
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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Nice increase across the power band, those are some especially nice gains after 6500! Where do you pull the gear?
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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New Era is a great place. I had my cam installed there and tuned. It ran great and his tune was spot on, never stalled or anything. I am going to bring my new setup to New Era to tune.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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Mike at New Era is an excellent tuner.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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Pretty decent gain in torque as well Johnny!
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sofls1
Nice increase across the power band, those are some especially nice gains after 6500! Where do you pull the gear?
Im not sure yet, I have to try some different things and see what if likes at the track. FYI with the streetsweeper cam I had before (236/240) I think it made peak power at 6500, and still made 420+ for a few hundred more rpm. You can look up the dyno graphs for the numbers. But it went faster with the shiftlight set at 6400. I moved it up like alot of people suggested but it went slower and lost MPH. Times in the sig, I had a ton of passes on that so I could try that.


So far went some 129's with this cam, best of 129.89 in the heat at indyLSX past year. I still had the shift light set kinda low still at 6400, because I didn't have time to dyno and see how it was over 6600rms. But it looks great now to shift higher so should go faster. Its still making about 440whp at 7K

I still want to add a vacum pump, that might be 10whp? Prop more like 7-8?
I can port my fast92 better, I just did it quick in maybe 30mins when I had it off testing intake a few years ago. I think going to a 102 or try the truck one too.


edit, Here is the dyno info when I 1st put this cam in and had it tuned.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...o-numbers.html
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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oh I also went to a manual steering rack since the last time (441). I said it in link I put up but not in the 1st post here about the 450 numbers. I dont think that matters much on the dyno, still have the belt on for the stock WP, and alt. spinning.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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Does you exhaust setup have an X-pipe in it?
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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that is a nice flat graph for a cam only setup. it should hold power good to 7k....
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