408 Low Results
Well for comparison sake got back from the dyno with the h/c/i LS1 firehawk. Through his 12bolt and 3.73's we ended up with 453/420wtq SAE. Same Dyno 4 days later.
found another close 408 setup with the smaller 243 Stage 1 LS6 heads, slightly larger cam, FAST 92, Moser 12 bolt, 4.10, 402 11:1 SCR:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...ls6-heads.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...ls6-heads.html
You suggestion would have been better idea on the build ! There where looking for a good quench should have just used smaller head gasket and saved the decking that same setup with piston on top of block at 0 and .040 would have be same thing with same piston ! Minus that far out of the hole and cost to do a foolish thing like that !
would boost be a decent Idea or would the same risk apply???
Just looking for other options here to get his power up.......
Of course, AFR/TFS heads, better headers, and a FAST 102 would probly show some slight gains.
Guys,
The OP PM'ed me bringing my attention to this thread so I thought I would respond in the open forum to share some ideas
I would advise checking cranking compression immediately.....
Start with the basics
If that doesn't look right it answers alot of questions immediately.....if it does look right it makes the answer more challenging (but never impossible) to find.
The fact your making stock cube torque figures (and HP for that matter) on a dyno other cars have rolled kind of what you might expect (ruling out a super stingy dyno) is obviously troubling.
Like I said....start with the basics....cranking PSI gives a good idea of the true compression ratio and whether the cam is in correctly.
I urged someone else to do this recently and his CCR was reaaaalllly LOW (like low 100's). He took his engine apart to find out the pistons were down the hole like .050 (they were made for a crank that had a longer arm!)
Anyway....the cranking compression immediatly lead him to take apart the engine ad see whats what. If your CCR is strong then you have to start considering conventional airflow related restrictions that could be holding you back but you need to check the CCR first and check every cylinder btw to see how even they are across the board.
Keep us posted!
-Tony
The OP PM'ed me bringing my attention to this thread so I thought I would respond in the open forum to share some ideas
I would advise checking cranking compression immediately.....
Start with the basics
If that doesn't look right it answers alot of questions immediately.....if it does look right it makes the answer more challenging (but never impossible) to find.
The fact your making stock cube torque figures (and HP for that matter) on a dyno other cars have rolled kind of what you might expect (ruling out a super stingy dyno) is obviously troubling.
Like I said....start with the basics....cranking PSI gives a good idea of the true compression ratio and whether the cam is in correctly.
I urged someone else to do this recently and his CCR was reaaaalllly LOW (like low 100's). He took his engine apart to find out the pistons were down the hole like .050 (they were made for a crank that had a longer arm!)
Anyway....the cranking compression immediatly lead him to take apart the engine ad see whats what. If your CCR is strong then you have to start considering conventional airflow related restrictions that could be holding you back but you need to check the CCR first and check every cylinder btw to see how even they are across the board.
Keep us posted!
-Tony
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I DID NOT DO This BUILD!!
When I heard about the piston being run that far out of the hole I suggested NOT to. Blueprint Engines (Builders for this setup) Stated that they run pistons out of the hole all the time for the race engines and that it would make the car have more power with less timing.
When I heard about the piston being run that far out of the hole I suggested NOT to. Blueprint Engines (Builders for this setup) Stated that they run pistons out of the hole all the time for the race engines and that it would make the car have more power with less timing.
Well guys,
Dont know how to say this but the mentioned engine building company has asked to have their name removed from this build and anything to do with this engine.
So how do I word this,
The engine was built in a storage shed with a couple of cresent wrenches and a file, a gas powered belt sander was used to deck the block and an old ice auger to bore it.
A couple of average joes through it together.
Still looking for answers, for whatever the hell thats worth.......
Will post the cranking compressions result as soon as the owner gets them from the ford dealer!
F-A-I-L!
Dont know how to say this but the mentioned engine building company has asked to have their name removed from this build and anything to do with this engine.
So how do I word this,
The engine was built in a storage shed with a couple of cresent wrenches and a file, a gas powered belt sander was used to deck the block and an old ice auger to bore it.
A couple of average joes through it together.
Still looking for answers, for whatever the hell thats worth.......
Will post the cranking compressions result as soon as the owner gets them from the ford dealer!
F-A-I-L!
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: grand island, ne
If you ask me this whole engine was doomed from the start. The owner don't know **** about engines, he just had the checkbook. It is his fault for not using a little feature we all have come to know as the "SEARCH" function before deciding what he wanted to do. The builder is brain washed by an idiot that thinks he knows all when it comes to building engines so he just did what was suggested to do. That guy could learn a thing or two while he's trolling around here worrying about his image. And last but not least I would just drive the damn thing the way it is or start over from scratch.
If you ask me this whole engine was doomed from the start. The owner don't know **** about engines, he just had the checkbook. It is his fault for not using a little feature we all have come to know as the "SEARCH" function before deciding what he wanted to do. The builder is brain washed by an idiot that thinks he knows all when it comes to building engines so he just did what was suggested to do. That guy could learn a thing or two while he's trolling around here worrying about his image. And last but not least I would just drive the damn thing the way it is or start over from scratch.
Cranking Compression Ratio:
With the throttle blade cracked open while cranking (Front to Back)
Drivers Side: Passenger Side:
195 200
198 200
200 198
200 198
Pushrod length was verified to 0 lash then a turn and a half, with about .090 preload on LS7 lifters
With the throttle blade cracked open while cranking (Front to Back)
Drivers Side: Passenger Side:
195 200
198 200
200 198
200 198
Pushrod length was verified to 0 lash then a turn and a half, with about .090 preload on LS7 lifters
Last edited by 06X6spdGTO; May 22, 2012 at 05:14 PM.
Cranking pressure is good....about what I would expect....and thats bad because now you would really have to start digging into things.
Are you sure this engine is 400 CID??....LOL
No easy answer from here....you will either have to just suck it up and drive it or take it apart and check everything over to make sure all of it is up to spec.
Not to many other choices the way I see it
Good luck....if you guys decide to "dig" let the rest of the community know what you find.
-Tony
Are you sure this engine is 400 CID??....LOL
No easy answer from here....you will either have to just suck it up and drive it or take it apart and check everything over to make sure all of it is up to spec.
Not to many other choices the way I see it
Good luck....if you guys decide to "dig" let the rest of the community know what you find.
-Tony
Cranking pressure is good....about what I would expect....and thats bad because now you would really have to start digging into things.
Are you sure this engine is 400 CID??....LOL
No easy answer from here....you will either have to just suck it up and drive it or take it apart and check everything over to make sure all of it is up to spec.
Not to many other choices the way I see it
Good luck....if you guys decide to "dig" let the rest of the community know what you find.
-Tony
Are you sure this engine is 400 CID??....LOL
No easy answer from here....you will either have to just suck it up and drive it or take it apart and check everything over to make sure all of it is up to spec.
Not to many other choices the way I see it
Good luck....if you guys decide to "dig" let the rest of the community know what you find.
-Tony
This seems like a steep rut to deal with. I guess its up to the owner now on which route to choose. Both seem pricey- But if this was cheap everybody would be doing it!!! Gotta pay to play
