This cant be right! or can it?
01-27-2013, 09:55 PM
#22
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01-28-2013, 09:21 PM
#25
So I have a feeling this might be your timing...which may be pulled due to your head gasket. If you are running 24 degrees of timing on 93 octane (just a for instance, you havent said) it might be due to your head gasket bore size. My heads are 61cc, they are mamofied 215s so not a direct comparison, but Tony has emphatically told me that I need 4.080 bore head gaskets because of the milling my chambers are wider and the big bore gaskets are required to prevent detonation.
To be honest, it didnt look that way when I held them up to the heads, but I am running 30 degrees right now with the big bore gaskets and I gained 25 ftlbs everywhere by advancing from 26 degrees. Thats through an a4 and a 9".
Im definitely no expert, but you might ask Tony since youre running AFRs.
To be honest, it didnt look that way when I held them up to the heads, but I am running 30 degrees right now with the big bore gaskets and I gained 25 ftlbs everywhere by advancing from 26 degrees. Thats through an a4 and a 9".
Im definitely no expert, but you might ask Tony since youre running AFRs.
01-29-2013, 04:00 AM
#27
Second dyno sheet starts at a higher RPM on the plot so that may be part of the non-standard look to it. Not sure what kind of dyno the first one was, but you have an apple and orange comparison. Mustang dyno can read lower and sometime much lower depending on the settings.
Have you considered throwing the car on a Dynojet just for comparison purposes since most people show their dynos from that manufacturer?
Have you considered throwing the car on a Dynojet just for comparison purposes since most people show their dynos from that manufacturer?
01-29-2013, 08:08 AM
#28
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Second dyno sheet starts at a higher RPM on the plot so that may be part of the non-standard look to it. Not sure what kind of dyno the first one was, but you have an apple and orange comparison. Mustang dyno can read lower and sometime much lower depending on the settings.
Have you considered throwing the car on a Dynojet just for comparison purposes since most people show their dynos from that manufacturer?
Have you considered throwing the car on a Dynojet just for comparison purposes since most people show their dynos from that manufacturer?
01-29-2013, 09:49 AM
#29
So I have a feeling this might be your timing...which may be pulled due to your head gasket. If you are running 24 degrees of timing on 93 octane (just a for instance, you havent said) it might be due to your head gasket bore size. My heads are 61cc, they are mamofied 215s so not a direct comparison, but Tony has emphatically told me that I need 4.080 bore head gaskets because of the milling my chambers are wider and the big bore gaskets are required to prevent detonation.
To be honest, it didnt look that way when I held them up to the heads, but I am running 30 degrees right now with the big bore gaskets and I gained 25 ftlbs everywhere by advancing from 26 degrees. Thats through an a4 and a 9".
To be honest, it didnt look that way when I held them up to the heads, but I am running 30 degrees right now with the big bore gaskets and I gained 25 ftlbs everywhere by advancing from 26 degrees. Thats through an a4 and a 9".
01-29-2013, 10:27 AM
#30
The biggest issue i see with the second dyno sheet, there is no way that cam is making peak TQ at 6,300+ I think you are missing some mid range TQ for sure.
Do you know the following:
What your timing curve looks like?
Was there any detonation or knock retard showing up on a data logger during the pull?
Why is the car so rich? (AFR is 11.7-12.4 with an average of 12.2) Definately overly rich on the throttle tip in.
If it was tuned after the heads cam install, I am leaning towards a bad tune. Did you get before and after results from the shop?
Do you know the following:
What your timing curve looks like?
Was there any detonation or knock retard showing up on a data logger during the pull?
Why is the car so rich? (AFR is 11.7-12.4 with an average of 12.2) Definately overly rich on the throttle tip in.
If it was tuned after the heads cam install, I am leaning towards a bad tune. Did you get before and after results from the shop?
01-29-2013, 11:16 AM
#31
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The biggest issue i see with the second dyno sheet, there is no way that cam is making peak TQ at 6,300+ I think you are missing some mid range TQ for sure.
Do you know the following:
What your timing curve looks like?
Was there any detonation or knock retard showing up on a data logger during the pull?
Why is the car so rich? (AFR is 11.7-12.4 with an average of 12.2) Definately overly rich on the throttle tip in.
If it was tuned after the heads cam install, I am leaning towards a bad tune. Did you get before and after results from the shop?
Do you know the following:
What your timing curve looks like?
Was there any detonation or knock retard showing up on a data logger during the pull?
Why is the car so rich? (AFR is 11.7-12.4 with an average of 12.2) Definately overly rich on the throttle tip in.
If it was tuned after the heads cam install, I am leaning towards a bad tune. Did you get before and after results from the shop?
01-31-2013, 09:32 AM
#33
There is no torque peak in the 2nd dyno. It would have to have a HUGE cam to peak that high. Your cam is nice and small.
So, seat of the pants, how does the car feel? With those heads and cam it should idle nice and really be strong in the middle.
Ron
So, seat of the pants, how does the car feel? With those heads and cam it should idle nice and really be strong in the middle.
Ron
01-31-2013, 10:02 AM
#34
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Do you think that this was the problem? The tuner failed not notice that the mechnic put the throttle cable in the wrong hole on the T/B. It was about 75% open @ full throttle, when he tuned it! I changed it, and its like night an day! about 4500 rmp it just blows the tires away! and they are drag radials. Its like skating on ice! 
So my question is it okay with the current tune?
So my question is it okay with the current tune?
01-31-2013, 10:32 AM
#35
The throttle body will leave power on the table for sure.
You should also be aware there is factory adjuster on the cable for the traction control cars, which your car appears to be, as it has one cable going to the TB.
I do not have mine on the car anymore, but it looks like larger diameter tube on the cable. There are 2 clips on each side. If you release the clips you can ratchet the section to adjust the sleeve length of the cable to be snug so you get full throttle opening.
Here is what it looked like on my car. Obviously different intake, but the cable will be the same.
You should also be aware there is factory adjuster on the cable for the traction control cars, which your car appears to be, as it has one cable going to the TB.
I do not have mine on the car anymore, but it looks like larger diameter tube on the cable. There are 2 clips on each side. If you release the clips you can ratchet the section to adjust the sleeve length of the cable to be snug so you get full throttle opening.
Here is what it looked like on my car. Obviously different intake, but the cable will be the same.
01-31-2013, 11:05 AM
#36
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The throttle body will leave power on the table for sure.
You should also be aware there is factory adjuster on the cable for the traction control cars, which your car appears to be, as it has one cable going to the TB.
I do not have mine on the car anymore, but it looks like larger diameter tube on the cable. There are 2 clips on each side. If you release the clips you can ratchet the section to adjust the sleeve length of the cable to be snug so you get full throttle opening.
Here is what it looked like on my car. Obviously different intake, but the cable will be the same.
You should also be aware there is factory adjuster on the cable for the traction control cars, which your car appears to be, as it has one cable going to the TB.
I do not have mine on the car anymore, but it looks like larger diameter tube on the cable. There are 2 clips on each side. If you release the clips you can ratchet the section to adjust the sleeve length of the cable to be snug so you get full throttle opening.
Here is what it looked like on my car. Obviously different intake, but the cable will be the same.
01-31-2013, 11:30 AM
#37
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The throttle body will leave power on the table for sure.
You should also be aware there is factory adjuster on the cable for the traction control cars, which your car appears to be, as it has one cable going to the TB.
I do not have mine on the car anymore, but it looks like larger diameter tube on the cable. There are 2 clips on each side. If you release the clips you can ratchet the section to adjust the sleeve length of the cable to be snug so you get full throttle opening.
Here is what it looked like on my car. Obviously different intake, but the cable will be the same.
You should also be aware there is factory adjuster on the cable for the traction control cars, which your car appears to be, as it has one cable going to the TB.
I do not have mine on the car anymore, but it looks like larger diameter tube on the cable. There are 2 clips on each side. If you release the clips you can ratchet the section to adjust the sleeve length of the cable to be snug so you get full throttle opening.
Here is what it looked like on my car. Obviously different intake, but the cable will be the same.
/hyjack
01-31-2013, 11:47 AM
#38
Thanks, 4 years ago it was pretty cool. Nicer stuff out now.
Check that adjuster though, you can take up any slack out of the cable with it. You have a traction control car, right? They are the only ones with single cable to the TB, unless the cruise was removed from a non TC car.
Check that adjuster though, you can take up any slack out of the cable with it. You have a traction control car, right? They are the only ones with single cable to the TB, unless the cruise was removed from a non TC car.
01-31-2013, 11:56 AM
#39
Thanks, 4 years ago it was pretty cool. Nicer stuff out now.
Check that adjuster though, you can take up any slack out of the cable with it. You have a traction control car, right? They are the only ones with single cable to the TB, unless the cruise was removed from a non TC car.
Check that adjuster though, you can take up any slack out of the cable with it. You have a traction control car, right? They are the only ones with single cable to the TB, unless the cruise was removed from a non TC car.
