Holy *****, just looked it up.

$5000 for anyone else wondering by how much they cant afford it

 

Nicer that that! OMG!

I took all of the slack out by putting it in the other hole on the T/B. But yes I have that adjuster, I just didnt know what it was. Thank you. My question is still un answered. Do I need to get my tune redone, because it was tuned when the T/B was only open about 75%?

 

yea I would

 

I think that I see where you are going with this. Lets do the math.

Std bore is 3.900

Gaket is 3.910

Chamber is opened up to 4.00 (if reworked by Tony)

4.00
- 3.910
= .090 divide by 2 = .045 of gaket material not covered by the head, and exposed to chamber heat and a .005 lip from the gastket to the block. I found Tony telling someone that 4.030 gasket I.D. would be the min.

 

Yes not for the faint of heart. I have another $1200 in it for porting and custom throttle shafts and another $1400 in the plenums, silicone elbows and fabbed Y pipe.

I did it mostly for a smoother idle for emissions and quick throttle response for handling. Oddly, I was amazed what a difference this made to the car in a corner or coming off one.

Anyway hopefully the OP can find out the issue. I personally only use 25 degrees of timing in my 455. Typically I have seen a better head will need less timing to make power. If Tony says it could be an issue though, I would listen to him.

It does seem odd that the torque is peaking so late on the 2nd graph. In fact I would say you have not even seen the peak hp there, but if you have a stock bottom end with stock rod bolts, I would not rev it past 6700 rpm.

When the intake I have was only opening to what was shown as 80% in the PCM, we picked up 15rwhp at my power level with 100%. It does make a difference.

 

Thats not right. my ls1 afr heads made 463hp 414tq. maybe the dyno had an off day.

 

Those are very close to the numbers that I was looking for!

 

You cannot compare numbers from a Dyno Jet to a Mustang Dyno. It just doesn't work that way.

Take it back to the dyno jet you made your bolt on numbers on.

 

Okay guys, I took it back to the dyno that I made my bolt on numbers (343 rwhp/355 rwtq). It looks better 454 rwhp/403 rwtq. Thats 111 hp and 48 ftlbs of tq. But is really rich, and whats that dip in tq from 4,000 to 4,700?

 

From the exhaust and header guru's I've spoken to, it's from an inefficient collector and/or x-pipe cross-over or y-pipe merge that isn't allowing the exhaust gases to resonate at the proper frequencies which hurt exhaust scavenging. Until this "area" of the rpm range is passed and the frequencies begin to even out again you will see this dip in the torque curve.

Certain header designs are a lot more efficient than others. I know that LG has done a lot of research and experimentation with this very principal with their header and x-pipe design.

It does look pig rich though, tuner should of caught on to that quickly and leaned it out.

 

You plan on taking it back to the tunner to have them correct it?

 

I took it back today. With both dyno sheets. They said it was fine, better a little rich than lean. He said would you rather lose 5 or 10 hp, or have a broken motor? He seemed offended that I questinoned his tune. He said that he would look at it, but not for two weeks, he is too busy, I need to get in line

 

Find someone else to tune the car. Plain and simple, overly rich is dangerous as well as too lean.

It appears to be below 10-1 AFR in several spots
Below 11.5-1 on most the pull
Barely makes it to 12-1 at 6,400rpm

You would be amazed how much power can be picked up. It is very audible on the dyno. If he is willing to leave the fueling that bad, I am very curious as to know how bad the timing table looks.

If you don't get it fixed before the next time I get down there, I'd be willing to bring my HP Tuners if you could find a dyno to rent.

 

Broken motor. Lmao. The a/f should be a straight line across. That is no where close. It should not dip into the 11's on motor. It should be 12.2-12.6 on motor. Heck man I tune nitrous cars leaner than that guy has yours. It also looks like it needs some more timing down low and the mid range. That torque curve should be pretty damn flat with that heads and cam combo.

 

I'd say neither - You need a new tuner. I agree with everyone else that the line he gave you is BS

 

Bump?

 

Just curious... have you even taken the car to the track yet and see what it runs 1/4

 

I did take it to the track. It was only 1/8, and smoked my stock LS6 clutch on the first pass!