02bluess

iTrader: (18)

Ok, here's the dyno graph, both cutout open and closed. As always, lemme know your thoughts...

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

Hey KGSloan and 02bluess what springs are you 2 running with the AS heads?
Just curious?

02bluess

iTrader: (18)

Comp 977's here...

KGSloan

comp 978's here

running stock lifters as well.

9T9BlueTA

iTrader: (2)

Same here.

Greg Fell

iTrader: (9)

Paul, doesn't your motor have low low miles on it? Maybe its not even broke in yet, hopefully it'll loosen up! I have an 85 mm MAF (calibrated for 75) if you want to try it out.

02bluess

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, that's true, Greg. I've only got about 3,500 miles on the shortblock, so hopefully she'll loosen up a bit...

Think I was mainly just concerned that I'd set the preload up wrong or made some other stupid mistake, but I talked with Larry again this afternoon, and it sounds like everything checks out, so I think we're just gonna get it to the track and see what happens...

BTW, can't recommend Larry @ Speed highly enough... he's really gone out of his way to help me out

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

FWIW, the LG cams have a .030 smaller base circle so youll have to take that into effect. I gained ~20+ HP just by changing my valvetrain geometry and preload

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

Country Boy - Did you use shims to change the valvetrain Geometry?

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Nah, I changed rockers and pushrods.. lol I went from the Comp shaft mounts and 7.1s to the YTs and 7.35s

JF WS6

Is that with no shims? How much are your heads milled?

I'm trying to figure out if I use Comp R's if I can just get away with the Harland Sharp 1.7 rockers and 7.35 pushrods like you are using. My heads are milled .015 with a G5X cam.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

My heads are milled alot to make up for the 2cc valve reliefs i the pistons.

*thinking out loud* Stock preload is ~.060 and with .015 milled heads (with stock pushrods) would be .075 preload... minus the .030 smaller base circle equals.... .045 preload with 7.4 pushrods[/thinking]

Dont go to a 7.35, youll end up with lash. I would shim with a .030 shim to give you ~.015 preload. I think Im running ~.010 and have no problems.

Someone correct me if Im wrong.

JF WS6

Thanks dude, that definately helps. So, a 7.35 pushrod is a bad idea? Too short? I thought it would have kind of the same effect (well not exactly the same of course) as a shimmed rocker. I thought somebody was saying that LG usually just uses 7.35 pushrods with Comp R's and stock rockers and basically calls it a day, but maybe that's with heads milled more than just .015.

I'd like to avoid the shimming, but if that's what I need to do, I guess that's what I will do. Now, just have to track down some shims.....

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

Will a A4 with a locked conerter show lower torque numbers on the dyno?

Chicago Z06

Since my numbers were mentioned.... which was dynoed at Speed Inc.. here are my specs... I bought STG 2+ LS6 heads from GTP (milled .015) and the cam kit from LG.. G5x2 on 114 lobe, i installed it straight up like Lou said with their push rods and springs as well i installed the Comp R's. i have some preload but not much.. mine pulls all the way to 7k.. I have the ASP underdrive pully, as well my 445 number was with a stock TB and 2.5 exhaust from the collector all the way out with the Corsa Ti street setup with 26 deg of total timing. I have not been back to the dyno since my ported TB and i now have 3" all the way back to the factory Ti exhaust as wellas a few degrees added up top.

My o2 on your setup is the graph looks great with no signs of detonation or floating valvetrain. the power does drop off starting at 6200. this is indicictive of cyl head running out of steam, exhaust restriction, intake restriction or potentially timing with not enough advance. i would try a pass without an airfilter installed to se if a filter could be the culprit, since you have already tried dumping the exhuast with minimal results i would go to the intake side... you have aported TB as well as the LS6 intake so after the filter there really is no other place to go other than i hate to say it cyl head... the cam grind you have chosen is a proven design with many cars north of 430rwhp and a few stock long blocks running 410-430 depending on LS1 or 6 heads. with your mods you should be in the 420-440 range. one last thing is how long has the rear been installed? does it spin freely or require effort to tunr the wheels over when jacked up in neutral? if your rear is too tight that will sap a lot of power as well... I trust Larry and Jim and their experience and if they can find nothing wrong... well... it would require disassembly to verify the heads integrity and flow as well as have the cam run on a cam doctor to make sure it is the grind you ordered and was not mis ground... this can and does happen... good luck

02bluess

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the reply! I'm guessing you're the one Larry was referring to when he told me he'd seen a similar combo pull 440+

I've got a lot of faith in Larry as well, and I think you may have hit it right on the head with the reference to my 12-bolt. That thing's been tight as hell since I got it ~ 4,000 miles ago, and it's shown no signs of loosening up. Howls like a banshee, too. Came pre-setup from Strange, and I had it installed by Jay and the guys down at Billingsley, whom I also know do great work, so at this point, I'm zeroing in on the 12-bolt itself.

I'm thinking about getting 4.30's this season or next anyway, so that might give me the chance to find out what's up!! l