G5x3/Absolute Speed Stg 2 5.3's/6-spd = 414rwhp/383rwtq???
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Yeah, that's true, Greg. I've only got about 3,500 miles on the shortblock, so hopefully she'll loosen up a bit...
Think I was mainly just concerned that I'd set the preload up wrong or made some other stupid mistake, but I talked with Larry again this afternoon, and it sounds like everything checks out, so I think we're just gonna get it to the track and see what happens...
BTW, can't recommend Larry @ Speed highly enough... he's really gone out of his way to help me out
Think I was mainly just concerned that I'd set the preload up wrong or made some other stupid mistake, but I talked with Larry again this afternoon, and it sounds like everything checks out, so I think we're just gonna get it to the track and see what happens...
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BTW, can't recommend Larry @ Speed highly enough... he's really gone out of his way to help me out
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Nah, I changed rockers and pushrods.. lol I went from the Comp shaft mounts and 7.1s to the YTs and 7.35s ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
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I'm trying to figure out if I use Comp R's if I can just get away with the Harland Sharp 1.7 rockers and 7.35 pushrods like you are using. My heads are milled .015 with a G5X cam.
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Originally Posted by JF WS6
Is that with no shims? How much are your heads milled?
I'm trying to figure out if I use Comp R's if I can just get away with the Harland Sharp 1.7 rockers and 7.35 pushrods like you are using. My heads are milled .015 with a G5X cam.
I'm trying to figure out if I use Comp R's if I can just get away with the Harland Sharp 1.7 rockers and 7.35 pushrods like you are using. My heads are milled .015 with a G5X cam.
*thinking out loud* Stock preload is ~.060 and with .015 milled heads (with stock pushrods) would be .075 preload... minus the .030 smaller base circle equals.... .045 preload with 7.4 pushrods[/thinking]
Dont go to a 7.35, youll end up with lash. I would shim with a .030 shim to give you ~.015 preload. I think Im running ~.010 and have no problems.
Someone correct me if Im wrong.
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
My heads are milled alot to make up for the 2cc valve reliefs i the pistons.
*thinking out loud* Stock preload is ~.060 and with .015 milled heads (with stock pushrods) would be .075 preload... minus the .030 smaller base circle equals.... .045 preload with 7.4 pushrods[/thinking]
Dont go to a 7.35, youll end up with lash. I would shim with a .030 shim to give you ~.015 preload. I think Im running ~.010 and have no problems.
Someone correct me if Im wrong.
*thinking out loud* Stock preload is ~.060 and with .015 milled heads (with stock pushrods) would be .075 preload... minus the .030 smaller base circle equals.... .045 preload with 7.4 pushrods[/thinking]
Dont go to a 7.35, youll end up with lash. I would shim with a .030 shim to give you ~.015 preload. I think Im running ~.010 and have no problems.
Someone correct me if Im wrong.
I'd like to avoid the shimming, but if that's what I need to do, I guess that's what I will do.
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Originally Posted by offaxis
Any of you guys have dyno sheets you can post with the a/f on them ? Id love to see where the power is being made and where it isnt.
9T9BlueTA
My cam is a 232/236 .575/578 112+4 and it has no problem making power. Plus your tq seems real low. Im hopingyour car is an A4 with a locked converter or you have something wrong there.
9T9BlueTA
My cam is a 232/236 .575/578 112+4 and it has no problem making power. Plus your tq seems real low. Im hopingyour car is an A4 with a locked converter or you have something wrong there.
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Since my numbers were mentioned.... which was dynoed at Speed Inc.. here are my specs... I bought STG 2+ LS6 heads from GTP (milled .015) and the cam kit from LG.. G5x2 on 114 lobe, i installed it straight up like Lou said with their push rods and springs as well i installed the Comp R's. i have some preload but not much.. mine pulls all the way to 7k.. I have the ASP underdrive pully, as well my 445 number was with a stock TB and 2.5 exhaust from the collector all the way out with the Corsa Ti street setup with 26 deg of total timing. I have not been back to the dyno since my ported TB and i now have 3" all the way back to the factory Ti exhaust as wellas a few degrees added up top.
My o2 on your setup is the graph looks great with no signs of detonation or floating valvetrain. the power does drop off starting at 6200. this is indicictive of cyl head running out of steam, exhaust restriction, intake restriction or potentially timing with not enough advance. i would try a pass without an airfilter installed to se if a filter could be the culprit, since you have already tried dumping the exhuast with minimal results i would go to the intake side... you have aported TB as well as the LS6 intake so after the filter there really is no other place to go other than i hate to say it cyl head... the cam grind you have chosen is a proven design with many cars north of 430rwhp and a few stock long blocks running 410-430 depending on LS1 or 6 heads. with your mods you should be in the 420-440 range. one last thing is how long has the rear been installed? does it spin freely or require effort to tunr the wheels over when jacked up in neutral? if your rear is too tight that will sap a lot of power as well... I trust Larry and Jim and their experience and if they can find nothing wrong... well... it would require disassembly to verify the heads integrity and flow as well as have the cam run on a cam doctor to make sure it is the grind you ordered and was not mis ground... this can and does happen... good luck
My o2 on your setup is the graph looks great with no signs of detonation or floating valvetrain. the power does drop off starting at 6200. this is indicictive of cyl head running out of steam, exhaust restriction, intake restriction or potentially timing with not enough advance. i would try a pass without an airfilter installed to se if a filter could be the culprit, since you have already tried dumping the exhuast with minimal results i would go to the intake side... you have aported TB as well as the LS6 intake so after the filter there really is no other place to go other than i hate to say it cyl head... the cam grind you have chosen is a proven design with many cars north of 430rwhp and a few stock long blocks running 410-430 depending on LS1 or 6 heads. with your mods you should be in the 420-440 range. one last thing is how long has the rear been installed? does it spin freely or require effort to tunr the wheels over when jacked up in neutral? if your rear is too tight that will sap a lot of power as well... I trust Larry and Jim and their experience and if they can find nothing wrong... well... it would require disassembly to verify the heads integrity and flow as well as have the cam run on a cam doctor to make sure it is the grind you ordered and was not mis ground... this can and does happen... good luck
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Originally Posted by Chicago Z06
Since my numbers were mentioned.... which was dynoed at Speed Inc.. here are my specs... I bought STG 2+ LS6 heads from GTP (milled .015) and the cam kit from LG.. G5x2 on 114 lobe, i installed it straight up like Lou said with their push rods and springs as well i installed the Comp R's. i have some preload but not much.. mine pulls all the way to 7k.. I have the ASP underdrive pully, as well my 445 number was with a stock TB and 2.5 exhaust from the collector all the way out with the Corsa Ti street setup with 26 deg of total timing. I have not been back to the dyno since my ported TB and i now have 3" all the way back to the factory Ti exhaust as wellas a few degrees added up top.
My o2 on your setup is the graph looks great with no signs of detonation or floating valvetrain. the power does drop off starting at 6200. this is indicictive of cyl head running out of steam, exhaust restriction, intake restriction or potentially timing with not enough advance. i would try a pass without an airfilter installed to se if a filter could be the culprit, since you have already tried dumping the exhuast with minimal results i would go to the intake side... you have aported TB as well as the LS6 intake so after the filter there really is no other place to go other than i hate to say it cyl head... the cam grind you have chosen is a proven design with many cars north of 430rwhp and a few stock long blocks running 410-430 depending on LS1 or 6 heads. with your mods you should be in the 420-440 range. one last thing is how long has the rear been installed? does it spin freely or require effort to tunr the wheels over when jacked up in neutral? if your rear is too tight that will sap a lot of power as well... I trust Larry and Jim and their experience and if they can find nothing wrong... well... it would require disassembly to verify the heads integrity and flow as well as have the cam run on a cam doctor to make sure it is the grind you ordered and was not mis ground... this can and does happen... good luck
My o2 on your setup is the graph looks great with no signs of detonation or floating valvetrain. the power does drop off starting at 6200. this is indicictive of cyl head running out of steam, exhaust restriction, intake restriction or potentially timing with not enough advance. i would try a pass without an airfilter installed to se if a filter could be the culprit, since you have already tried dumping the exhuast with minimal results i would go to the intake side... you have aported TB as well as the LS6 intake so after the filter there really is no other place to go other than i hate to say it cyl head... the cam grind you have chosen is a proven design with many cars north of 430rwhp and a few stock long blocks running 410-430 depending on LS1 or 6 heads. with your mods you should be in the 420-440 range. one last thing is how long has the rear been installed? does it spin freely or require effort to tunr the wheels over when jacked up in neutral? if your rear is too tight that will sap a lot of power as well... I trust Larry and Jim and their experience and if they can find nothing wrong... well... it would require disassembly to verify the heads integrity and flow as well as have the cam run on a cam doctor to make sure it is the grind you ordered and was not mis ground... this can and does happen... good luck
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I've got a lot of faith in Larry as well, and I think you may have hit it right on the head with the reference to my 12-bolt. That thing's been tight as hell since I got it ~ 4,000 miles ago, and it's shown no signs of loosening up. Howls like a banshee, too. Came pre-setup from Strange, and I had it installed by Jay and the guys down at Billingsley, whom I also know do great work, so at this point, I'm zeroing in on the 12-bolt itself.
I'm thinking about getting 4.30's this season or next anyway, so that might give me the chance to find out what's up!!
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