^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Makes me wonder what that motor pushing 1000fwhp would run in my vette that went 10.02 @135 as a bolt-on and around 1/2 the power.

 

Would be excited to see you throw the stock cam back in maybe with some rockers and get that 9 sec pass....

 

You're killin' me.

I'm just trying to bench race here.

...with better fuel, better tune, rockers, vacuum pump, lightweight oil, additional weight removal.
...and how about a real 60'( there's a .1 in 60' alone) and a great air day.
Oh and forgot to mention 18 lb clutch I have sitting on my bench here.

 

Do it!!

But you might want to stay away from that lightweight oil

 

What kind clutch did you end up getting?

 

Lol yeah stay away from that synthetic 0-20 oil

 

I have half a dozen clutches both diaphragm style and sintered iron adjustables.
The one I was referring to is more of a race clutch by ACP.
If I had a DD street car I'd definitely check out the Tilton lightweight ones.

I'm selling the car so no more buying parts.
I've had a few offers from vendors to sponsor a set of heads which I might consider if the car doesn't sell by fall. Would be nice to be able to prove this thread plausible, but then I'm obligated to track it and I wouldn't be happy without a low 9 which will eat up a lot of my time and effort, etc, etc.

 

Always need to be careful. That xxx is like fat free syrup with water in it.
I consider the lightweight oil especially with the race motor that buzz' up near 10K to bring down the pressure. The higher the hp and higher the rpm the more ponies it frees up.
The thing to remember when drag racing is to have the car and fluids are cold at the line before taking a pass. Sometimes just over 100 degrees at the burn out box.

 

I like my tilton alot. But the reality is it's mostly qtr master stuff with a tilton cage.

I run castrol syntec 5/30. I hot lap to much for the thin stuff. I don't want to monitor the car enough for the thun oil.

 

Yeah, makes sense.

In some of those race events everyone's pushing the cars up and starting them right before the burnout in cold weather. You almost have to run thin oil because the car never gets warmed up enough.

I bet prostock sees 30+ whp with lightweight oil alone.

 

Oh i could for sure see it helping and likely used technique for alot of record runs.

 

Gotcha. I have the spec mini twin. I really like it. It's in that 18-19 lb range.

I tried 0-20 synthetic and it caused my engine to sputter over 6000. It's like the lifters were bleeding out. Changed the oil and it got better.

I think your 575 goal is achievable

 

How does that mini twin do? Pretty much on and off switch? Or can you feather it up on a trailer? Also how about sounds? Make a bunch of noise trying to release it slowly?

 

I have a tick master which makes it a little worse but it's still drive able once you get used to it. Actually a pretty quiet clutch for the most part.

I wouldn't recommend it for a DD at all but it's perfectly fine for a weekend car.

 

Mines far from a dd lol. I just know I hated my stage 5 I had. Do you have the sintered metal disc or the organic?

 

I crewed on a superstock car here in Aus many years ago that had a heating element that screwed into the oil pan to pre heat the engine oil before a run.

I'm not sure what it was worth hp wise but it was a street class record nudging and eventually breaking car around that time. I'm sure it would've been done over in the states before then.

Jason

 

X2 that spec 5 was brutal, especially for a DD. McLeod RST was great, and so was my Southbend DXD clutch, but they're not known for their light weight.