LS6 with Tsunami Cam results
#21
I like 3.90 gears. But you really need to gear it for the rpm/weight/mph/tire height you are trying to pull. On your graph i seen no layout for rpm. .....that is a must. So more info is needed and what rpm you are shifting at.
#22
The answer is yes.
It is too heavy, and that adds drag to your drivetrain. Also adds load to your synchros.
It is not clamping enough.
Best recommendation is a light, multidisc clutch. Reduce your MOI and increase power transfer /reduce slippage via increased friction surface area.
It is too heavy, and that adds drag to your drivetrain. Also adds load to your synchros.
It is not clamping enough.
Best recommendation is a light, multidisc clutch. Reduce your MOI and increase power transfer /reduce slippage via increased friction surface area.
#23
#24
I would recommend 4.11's or even 4.30's. You have a six speed so cruising won't be bad at all. And it sounds like the ls7 is just done. They're not known for holding up in a heavy f body with much more than stock power. They're made for a 3100lb car making 460ish rwhp.
#25
The answer is yes.
It is too heavy, and that adds drag to your drivetrain. Also adds load to your synchros.
It is not clamping enough.
Best recommendation is a light, multidisc clutch. Reduce your MOI and increase power transfer /reduce slippage via increased friction surface area.
It is too heavy, and that adds drag to your drivetrain. Also adds load to your synchros.
It is not clamping enough.
Best recommendation is a light, multidisc clutch. Reduce your MOI and increase power transfer /reduce slippage via increased friction surface area.
Ls7 clutch is poop
#26
It's to heavy.....like way to heavy. Like dump truck clutch type of heavy. They are junk if you are trying to get your car to accelerate.
I like 3.90 gears. But you really need to gear it for the rpm/weight/mph/tire height you are trying to pull. On your graph i seen no layout for rpm. .....that is a must. So more info is needed and what rpm you are shifting at.
I like 3.90 gears. But you really need to gear it for the rpm/weight/mph/tire height you are trying to pull. On your graph i seen no layout for rpm. .....that is a must. So more info is needed and what rpm you are shifting at.
Any particular ideas for another clutch? It's normally fine but after a couple gears of WOT it starts to just barely slip. The Tick master helped shifting a lot!
#27
The answer is yes.
It is too heavy, and that adds drag to your drivetrain. Also adds load to your synchros.
It is not clamping enough.
Best recommendation is a light, multidisc clutch. Reduce your MOI and increase power transfer /reduce slippage via increased friction surface area.
It is too heavy, and that adds drag to your drivetrain. Also adds load to your synchros.
It is not clamping enough.
Best recommendation is a light, multidisc clutch. Reduce your MOI and increase power transfer /reduce slippage via increased friction surface area.
#28
Correct me if I'm wrong, I very well may be wrong, but isn't the same clutch used in the much heavier LS3 5th gens?
#29
#30
It really depends on your budget. I did a RPS Carbon twin. $2k+, weighs 31 pounds, extremely reliable. I've seen guys run 19 pound clutches.
At the very least I'd go with like a McLeod street twin, monster LT1-S, or a centerforce DYAD.
Hio runs a really small tilton unit that he says his wife can drive pretty well. There's also a very light spec D clutch that I've seen handle well optimized bolt on LS1's.
A lot of these multidisc units though have very good life and also are cheap to rebuild so you never need to buy a whole clutch ever again. Mine is $400 to rebuild. Others will run as cheap as 250 to rebuild.
At the very least I'd go with like a McLeod street twin, monster LT1-S, or a centerforce DYAD.
Hio runs a really small tilton unit that he says his wife can drive pretty well. There's also a very light spec D clutch that I've seen handle well optimized bolt on LS1's.
A lot of these multidisc units though have very good life and also are cheap to rebuild so you never need to buy a whole clutch ever again. Mine is $400 to rebuild. Others will run as cheap as 250 to rebuild.
#34
#36
Try checking out post #2. It's a better pic of the chart. Starts at 3K or so and goes to 6800 or so. Since power is flat up there I generally shift at 6600.
Any particular ideas for another clutch? It's normally fine but after a couple gears of WOT it starts to just barely slip. The Tick master helped shifting a lot!
Any particular ideas for another clutch? It's normally fine but after a couple gears of WOT it starts to just barely slip. The Tick master helped shifting a lot!
Not really
You still on a ls6 intake?
Nope
Don't be scared to drop some dime on a good light clutch. You'll thank us later.
In the end a good clutch will actually save you money.
#37
Yeah it's still on the LS6 intake. It's got 55k on the motor with stock lifters. It's got titanium retainers and dual .660 springs. Would you rev it to 7k? The power flat lines doesn't it?
#38
I rev my 90k ls6 with a stock cam to 7k.....and I'm about to twist on it a little harder. So yea i would . I don't like dual springs much, i woukda rather seen a good beehive or conical on it.
Just cause the power flat lines don't mean you can't take advantage of staying in a lower gear longer.
A ported fast intake would likely pick you up around 25whp. That could be why your numbers are low comparativly. What headers?
Just cause the power flat lines don't mean you can't take advantage of staying in a lower gear longer.
A ported fast intake would likely pick you up around 25whp. That could be why your numbers are low comparativly. What headers?
Last edited by HioSSilver; 04-11-2016 at 05:43 PM.
#39
I rev my 90k ls6 with a stock cam to 7k.....and I'm about to twist on it a little harder. So yea i would . I don't like dual springs much, i woukda rather seen a good beehive or conical on it.
Just cause the power flat lines don't mean you can't take advantage of staying in a lower gear longer.
A ported fast intake would likely pick you up around 25whp. That could be why your numbers are low comparativly. What headers?
Just cause the power flat lines don't mean you can't take advantage of staying in a lower gear longer.
A ported fast intake would likely pick you up around 25whp. That could be why your numbers are low comparativly. What headers?
#40
Ok....now we are getting somewhere. I suspected you had 1 3/4 headers. 1 7/8 are much better. I bet you would pick up 30whp or maybe more between the fast and larger headers
Combine that with a nice light clutch and your car is a completely different animal.
Combine that with a nice light clutch and your car is a completely different animal.