5.3 cam only - need advice
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 46
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Just because it a 3 spd it's not a street car? lol.
Your logic is backwards and makes no sense. Your theory of making down low off idle power is adding turbos that run off exhaust gas which is greater at higher rpm instead of adding a mechanically advantage that gives him more off idle
Just add a set of gears first off and see how you like it then look into a better stall.
Your logic is backwards and makes no sense. Your theory of making down low off idle power is adding turbos that run off exhaust gas which is greater at higher rpm instead of adding a mechanically advantage that gives him more off idle
Just add a set of gears first off and see how you like it then look into a better stall.
MY post clearly says to ADD GEARS FIRST. It doesn't need more converter; high stall, high weight, and 3.08 gears is NOT a good combo. More stall will make it even slower with that 3-speed auto.
And as to the turbo; you ever tried to drive a turbo 3-speed auto on 3.73s or higher? Its a damn shame to hit 6k in third before the end of the track. Again: logic is soundly based on trap mph, actual racing knowledge. Not a guess.
This is tune related it seems. I realize my 6.0 lq4 is not a 5.3 but I'd assume numbers would be somewhat similar with a cam.
I also have that low compression and with a 226/231 btr stage 2 turbo cam, th400, 3.73 gears, same sized headers and exhaust, but I have a truck intake and tb and made 379 rwhp and 357 rwtrq. Your torque seems low, mine was 307 rwtrq in Stock form but with a tune. What program was it tuned with ?
I also have that low compression and with a 226/231 btr stage 2 turbo cam, th400, 3.73 gears, same sized headers and exhaust, but I have a truck intake and tb and made 379 rwhp and 357 rwtrq. Your torque seems low, mine was 307 rwtrq in Stock form but with a tune. What program was it tuned with ?
Cars with 3-speeds were all the rage for a good 50-60 years.
Otherwise I agree with you that more gear is need to multiply low RPM torque.
KW
Thus, dedicated track(city) car. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg; that is my cut off.
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Verdad Gallardo Yeah, years ago. You don't see the 3-speeds anymore though, probably since 1984 I guess? Since then, its 4 speeds, 5 speeds, heck 7 or 8 speeds. The 3-speed is long gone. You don't jump in one of those cars and drive it across country; you can't expect to do much more than drive around your city with one.
Thus, dedicated track(city) car. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg; that is my cut off.
Thus, dedicated track(city) car. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg; that is my cut off.
I could run something direct drive and the final drive ratio would determine if it's suitable for highway speeds or not. You can run a powerglide with 2.90 gear and a tall tire and cruise the highway just fine or you can run an overdrive trans with 3.91 gears and low profile tires and have a similar final drive ratio. You night want to quit posting before you make a complete fool of yourself..... Not that you haven't already.
Yeah, years ago. You don't see the 3-speeds anymore though, probably since 1984 I guess? Since then, its 4 speeds, 5 speeds, heck 7 or 8 speeds. The 3-speed is long gone. You don't jump in one of those cars and drive it across country; you can't expect to do much more than drive around your city with one.
Thus, dedicated track(city) car. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg; that is my cut off.
Thus, dedicated track(city) car. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg; that is my cut off.
You can't assume, based on transmission gears, what someone else is gonna do with their car.
At this point, I'm done on the subject; you may have the last word.....if you want it.
KW
no overdrive = not economical = not a street car, so yes. logical and perfectly sensible to feel this way.
MY post clearly says to ADD GEARS FIRST. It doesn't need more converter; high stall, high weight, and 3.08 gears is NOT a good combo. More stall will make it even slower with that 3-speed auto.
And as to the turbo; you ever tried to drive a turbo 3-speed auto on 3.73s or higher? Its a damn shame to hit 6k in third before the end of the track. Again: logic is soundly based on trap mph, actual racing knowledge. Not a guess.
MY post clearly says to ADD GEARS FIRST. It doesn't need more converter; high stall, high weight, and 3.08 gears is NOT a good combo. More stall will make it even slower with that 3-speed auto.
And as to the turbo; you ever tried to drive a turbo 3-speed auto on 3.73s or higher? Its a damn shame to hit 6k in third before the end of the track. Again: logic is soundly based on trap mph, actual racing knowledge. Not a guess.
Yeah, years ago. You don't see the 3-speeds anymore though, probably since 1984 I guess? Since then, its 4 speeds, 5 speeds, heck 7 or 8 speeds. The 3-speed is long gone. You don't jump in one of those cars and drive it across country; you can't expect to do much more than drive around your city with one.
Thus, dedicated track(city) car. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg; that is my cut off.
Thus, dedicated track(city) car. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg; that is my cut off.
More stall on a 3-speed car will make it slower? What?
A 3-speed car with 3.73s hitting 6,000rpm in the 1/4 is a shame? That's 132mph with a 28" tire. Good thing LS motors go to 7,000 or more, because that's 155mph. With the same tire, RPM at 60mph is about 2700rpm. Not too far off what I get with 4.30 gears in 4th in my 4L80e.
Your "actual racing knowledge" is bullshit.
No one drives a 3-speed cross country? Yes they do, every day. Nobody will drive it 1000 miles with 15mpg? Millions of people do this. Millions.
And don't listen to a thing kingtal0n says.
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
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From: Ohio
the lack of overdrive suggests this is a race-car only (trailer car) so I feel that 3.73 or 4.11 are more appropriate gear ratios.
The reason it feels slow is the gearing and lack of boost, combined with the slush of a 3-speed no lockup against a converter and a bunch of weight. Alternatively you could shave 1000lbs off but that is probably harder than adding a turbo.
The reason it feels slow is the gearing and lack of boost, combined with the slush of a 3-speed no lockup against a converter and a bunch of weight. Alternatively you could shave 1000lbs off but that is probably harder than adding a turbo.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I have a 1973 Corvette I just swapped an lsx into. Long story short, it made 350/312 at the wheels, yet all the power seems too far in the power band so it's a dog off the line... please let me know what I can do within reason to help...cant even burnout.. Here are the specs.
Stock bottom 5.3
243 heads milled .017 to keep compression (in theory) at 9.5:1
Texas speed 228r cam
Ls6 intake
Beehive springs
1 3/4 long tube headers
2.5" full exhaust
Th400
3.08s in the back.
Stock bottom 5.3
243 heads milled .017 to keep compression (in theory) at 9.5:1
Texas speed 228r cam
Ls6 intake
Beehive springs
1 3/4 long tube headers
2.5" full exhaust
Th400
3.08s in the back.
Stock bottom 5.3
Stock unmilled 862 heads.
226/232 115 LSA cam (much less low end and more top end than your cam).
Stock truck intake
1 3/4" long tubes
2" dual exhaust.
100% stock TH350 and converter.
3.73 rear gear.
Would melt the tires from a stop. If you don't want to sacrifice highway RPM, then you need a converter at the minimum. Jegs sells cheap 2800-3600 stall converters meant for a small block, which would be perfect for you.
While more stall and gear should help I have a feeling there is another problem contributing.
It's possible there are mechanical issues (doubtful since it seems to be making good power) but possibly some problems with PE delay, burst knock, timing tables in the lower RPM ranges, etc.
Post your dyno graph, maybe the curve will tell more.
Also what kind of tires are on this thing? That's a huge factor in spinning or not if that's one of the things you're looking for.
It's possible there are mechanical issues (doubtful since it seems to be making good power) but possibly some problems with PE delay, burst knock, timing tables in the lower RPM ranges, etc.
Post your dyno graph, maybe the curve will tell more.
Also what kind of tires are on this thing? That's a huge factor in spinning or not if that's one of the things you're looking for.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 46
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Here is the dyno - bad pic.
Tires are 255/45/17 nankangs.
If I am stopped and instantly floor it, there is a little pause/hiccup before the motor reacts.. do I need to have the lower rmp tables tuned differently?
Tires are 255/45/17 nankangs.
If I am stopped and instantly floor it, there is a little pause/hiccup before the motor reacts.. do I need to have the lower rmp tables tuned differently?
If you don't have instant throttle response that's a good sign the lower RPM tune isn't completed properly or there is some kind of issue in that area.
Did the shop do any street tuning or only dyno tune? Any reason it's speed density tuned instead of MAF tuned?
All this to say more gear and/or converter are good ideas, but I would make sure the rest of the package is working its best before bothering to change and band aid it.
Did the shop do any street tuning or only dyno tune? Any reason it's speed density tuned instead of MAF tuned?
All this to say more gear and/or converter are good ideas, but I would make sure the rest of the package is working its best before bothering to change and band aid it.