Originally Posted by ddnspider

What twin disc? I ran the McLeod RST with stock hydraulics, wish I had gone RXT. Keep in mind I was 3800lbs lol. I do hear how bias plys are much more forgiving with the stick. I'm sure you'll chop it down.

Originally Posted by big hammer

IMO radials can still be faster with a manual IF you have piles of experience at the track and set up properly

A manual needs some sort of slippage, somewhere, to keep from bogging brought the 330'. This has to be done in the clutch or the tire. A radial doesn't like being slipped as much as a bias does. They tend to just give up and blow the tires off. With a bias it's easier to maintain useable slippage.

With an auto the converter just does all that for you

Originally Posted by HioSSilver

Well soflo sucks. That's the difference.


#383......but their still comparing you to a built motor that went 12s at less than 120 vs your bolt on motor in the 11s and trapping up to 122


One is garbage because its built and never left the 12s vs one that's bolt on and did leave the 12s dbutsniper


Are you saying you completely eff'd up a 38x build?

Originally Posted by big hammer

A manual needs some sort of slippage, somewhere, to keep from bogging brought the 330'.

Originally Posted by ddnspider

What twin disc? I ran the McLeod RST with stock hydraulics, wish I had gone RXT. Keep in mind I was 3800lbs lol. I do hear how bias plys are much more forgiving with the stick. I'm sure you'll chop it down.

Originally Posted by SoFla01SSLookinstok

effyoudorkus

But you're comparing a heavy f-body to a c5z. You have the mph mixed up too.

No one has ever called my car garbage. Except your stupid ***.

Nope.





Wait, where in the heck did you ever come up with that nonsense?

Originally Posted by ddnspider

The smallest tire necessary to do the job can be faster, just makes the margin for error smaller too. Once a drag radial starts spinning its pretty much over. The clutch tamer stuff is interesting if you can have the best of both worlds, i.e. hold the power and allow just enough slip to get everything to hook up. I still like 2 steps as it removes the human error with launching repeatedly at a set RPM, and the added benefit of leaving in boost on a stick car which otherwise wont happen lol.

Originally Posted by big hammer

I read about it on tv

Originally Posted by ddnspider

The smallest tire necessary to do the job can be faster, just makes the margin for error smaller too. Once a drag radial starts spinning its pretty much over. The clutch tamer stuff is interesting if you can have the best of both worlds, i.e. hold the power and allow just enough slip to get everything to hook up. I still like 2 steps as it removes the human error with launching repeatedly at a set RPM, and the added benefit of leaving in boost on a stick car which otherwise wont happen lol.

Originally Posted by Mike Morris

Vetteboy ftw unlike the the trolls in this thread

I think Scotty will go 125 in good air.


Hio has more gear,is lighter,is better aero,has his launch down and has more mods than Scotty so stop comparing both cars which is down right silly.

Originally Posted by islander033

I don't see many trolls in here, just some peeps with unrealistic statements and anger (Hio...cough ...cough).

Scottytoohotty will trap 125, but not without more mods and tweeking.

As for your last comment, how is a stock LS6 catfish lighter and more aero than a modded C5Z???

Originally Posted by vetteboy2k

1st off, props to Scotty on many levels.

Methodically building your setup and paying attention to details and those who had success before you is the right formula. Must have been painful having all those parts with no car! lol
I commend you for having an open mind and doing what you thought wasn't possible. If you didn't and refused to believe guys like Hio you wouldn't have achieved your goals.
And I get why Hio gets jaded and reluctant sometimes because he did stuff legit and had to deal with hundreds of people trying to derail and discredit him. I'm glad I defended him back then.
Also, it cool to see Scotty out there enjoying the car and learning the subtleties it takes to run these machines down the track efficiently.

I always say the work starts now after the dyno numbers come in especially with a manual car that is not particularly setup for the drag strip.
I recognize most everyone's screen names in here and y'all are good people. A little smack talk back and forth is cool and probably healthy.

Some more technical info and tidbits:

As for his mph let's break it down. MPH is power/weight but it needs to be broken down further to include all the variables.
Power needs to be identified as 'power under the curve' and 'power to the ground' for a given day which is uncorrected HP.

So Scotty is losing valuable mph because:

- he is not in the proper rpm band throughout the entire run
- he is not able to put all 450hp to the ground
- he may not be making 450hp on one particular day
This can be a result of gearing, shift points, DA, tires, suspension, clutch, traction, etc.

So setup and driver play a big role in MPH independent of a max hp dyno number.
Hio has both down and his car is more optimized for the drag strip and experienced guys will tend to run on great air days because they have figured the car out already and want to find the bottom of the cars potential.

So far Scotty has trapped 122mph.
Maximize everything above on a great air day and great track and you're staring 130 in the eyes.
The biggest issue I see in most 1/4 mile street car setups is power under the curve inefficiency.
So in other words, for an optimal pass, Scotty's car may need to be shifted @ 7300 and go through the traps @ 7500. But I know that's often just not feasible.
But in general the details add up on the track just like on the dyno but it's just not all about max dyno hp.

Other potential mph gains:
skinnies (1-2mph)
lightweight drag radial (1-2mph)
clutch type and holding power (1-2mph)
alignment (1mph)
aero and efficiency
decreasing parasitic loss of drivetrain/motor
etc.

So for your C5Z (Scotty):

Don't mess with the suspension. I'd put the rear leaf spring in and call it a day.
It's ok to lower the car on the stock bolts or very slightly more but not critical.
I'd get a good alignment and have the rake setup right.

You will mph best with a 16" hoosier drag radial. [255 50 16]
You will learn to launch the car best (IMO) with a 26x11.5x16 et street bias ply tire.
With the bias ply you need skinnies.
Remember that with most 16" rims you will need to shave/hammer the upper ball joint so it doesn't rub. Sorry!
You know if/when you get the tire combo that I will walk you through the entire launch including everything from tire pressure to clutch release.
And yes you need a better burnout. lol
Got to run to work... keep at it and thanks for the read.

Originally Posted by Darth_V8r

....IMO, it sort of makes the clutch act like a stalled converter - lets the engine stay at peak power.

I've seen quite a few people talk about using a 2-step to let the computer do the thinking for you. Kind of strange to say this, I sort of wanted to see how well I could do on my own first. Kind of a personal challenge.

Originally Posted by big hammer

I have a tamer and was dialing it in at the track with a radial last time out. It takes a lot of testing but i think it'll work. Never got a chance to finish tuning it though because that lifter let go

Originally Posted by scotty2000ss

Might take more mods but not more HP/less weight as you claim

Originally Posted by Mike Morris

His car is not a stock LS6 Catfish. His car has aero mods and is lowered. Like I tell people every inch of that car has been thought out. Hio is guilty of downplaying it. Things like light weight rotors which Hio got slammed for years ago is one thing people over look due to cost. A lot of recipicating and rotational weight taken out of that car.

Originally Posted by big hammer

Islander got beat the **** down by vetteboy

Originally Posted by vetteboy2k

1st off, props to Scotty on many levels.

Methodically building your setup and paying attention to details and those who had success before you is the right formula. Must have been painful having all those parts with no car! lol
I commend you for having an open mind and doing what you thought wasn't possible. If you didn't and refused to believe guys like Hio you wouldn't have achieved your goals.
And I get why Hio gets jaded and reluctant sometimes because he did stuff legit and had to deal with hundreds of people trying to derail and discredit him. I'm glad I defended him back then.
Also, it cool to see Scotty out there enjoying the car and learning the subtleties it takes to run these machines down the track efficiently.

I always say the work starts now after the dyno numbers come in especially with a manual car that is not particularly setup for the drag strip.
I recognize most everyone's screen names in here and y'all are good people. A little smack talk back and forth is cool and probably healthy.

Some more technical info and tidbits:

As for his mph let's break it down. MPH is power/weight but it needs to be broken down further to include all the variables.
Power needs to be identified as 'power under the curve' and 'power to the ground' for a given day which is uncorrected HP.

So Scotty is losing valuable mph because:

- he is not in the proper rpm band throughout the entire run
- he is not able to put all 450hp to the ground
- he may not be making 450hp on one particular day
This can be a result of gearing, shift points, DA, tires, suspension, clutch, traction, etc.

So setup and driver play a big role in MPH independent of a max hp dyno number.
Hio has both down and his car is more optimized for the drag strip and experienced guys will tend to run on great air days because they have figured the car out already and want to find the bottom of the cars potential.

So far Scotty has trapped 122mph.
Maximize everything above on a great air day and great track and you're staring 130 in the eyes.
The biggest issue I see in most 1/4 mile street car setups is power under the curve inefficiency.
So in other words, for an optimal pass, Scotty's car may need to be shifted @ 7300 and go through the traps @ 7500. But I know that's often just not feasible.
But in general the details add up on the track just like on the dyno but it's just not all about max dyno hp.

Other potential mph gains:
skinnies (1-2mph)
lightweight drag radial (1-2mph)
clutch type and holding power (1-2mph)
alignment (1mph)
aero and efficiency
decreasing parasitic loss of drivetrain/motor
etc.

So for your C5Z (Scotty):

Don't mess with the suspension. I'd put the rear leaf spring in and call it a day.
It's ok to lower the car on the stock bolts or very slightly more but not critical.
I'd get a good alignment and have the rake setup right.

You will mph best with a 16" hoosier drag radial. [255 50 16]
You will learn to launch the car best (IMO) with a 26x11.5x16 et street bias ply tire.
With the bias ply you need skinnies.
Remember that with most 16" rims you will need to shave/hammer the upper ball joint so it doesn't rub. Sorry!
You know if/when you get the tire combo that I will walk you through the entire launch including everything from tire pressure to clutch release.
And yes you need a better burnout. lol
Got to run to work... keep at it and thanks for the read.

Originally Posted by SoFla01SSLookinstok

effyoudorkus

But you're comparing a heavy f-body to a c5z. You have the mph mixed up too.

No one has ever called my car garbage. Except your stupid ***.

Nope.





Wait, where in the heck did you ever come up with that nonsense?

Originally Posted by big hammer

Islander got beat the **** down by vetteboy

Originally Posted by Mike Morris

His car is not a stock LS6 Catfish. His car has aero mods and is lowered. Like I tell people every inch of that car has been thought out. Hio is guilty of downplaying it. Things like light weight rotors which Hio got slammed for years ago is one thing people over look due to cost. A lot of recipicating and rotational weight taken out of that car.

Originally Posted by scotty2000ss

1. How high have you spun it with stock gearing and stock springs/rockers?

2. Any insight to setting the rake up correct? I have the rear low as it can go on stock bolts.

3. So bias ply front and rear? Might have to go with the 16" Hoosier DR for now till I get a proper drag set up.

Originally Posted by islander033

He himself called it a stock LS6 car, why would you know better than him for what it is?

Originally Posted by islander033

You would like to see it that way, but rational people won't.

Why so mad all the time?

I agree with most of what vetteboy said, other than the 130mph and Hio things.

130mph just isn't gonna happen with scotty's current power/weight/gearing/tires/driver...ect. I'll put $100.00 down for this bet if there are any takers for the rest of 2017.

Hio is setup for road racing. Hio has stated this numerous times about his stock LS6 car. We all know that bogarts with drag tires are the best road racing setup ever. Geeeze